wavey Posted July 31, 2018 Share #1 Posted July 31, 2018 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hello, I've got an M4-P and wanted to get another camera for general lighter travelling and the screw Leicas caught my eye, so now im looking for a beater iii body and found one that seemed somewhat reasonable (£119), but there are a few reservations. It has a flash sync later added between the two eyepiece viewfinders which I'd never use, but could it do anything to compromise the longevity/durability of the camera in the long run? There is also a small bit of string sticking out from under the film advance knob and I have no idea what it could be there for (and so its raising a bit of concern). The only thing similar that comes to mind is how some people tie a bit of string on the hub of bicycle wheels to keep it clean, but in this case it seems highly unlikely so any help on that front would be greatly appreciated. The listing is online but I'm not completely sure of the rules regarding that so I'll leave it unless someone tells me anything different. Thank you Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted July 31, 2018 Posted July 31, 2018 Hi wavey, Take a look here Recommendation on purchasing an iiia. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
romanus53 Posted July 31, 2018 Share #2 Posted July 31, 2018 As it's not a factory-upgrade collectors wouldn't buy. I've had serveral of these wild-synchonized ones, one had a stripe of cooper solded on an srew of an shutter-axe so I had to drill it out to get it out, apart from other damages inside to get the synch-cable to the socket. My opinion: even that low price is to much for a Body aou want to use and which maybe had to be CLA. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wavey Posted July 31, 2018 Author Share #3 Posted July 31, 2018 (edited) (reply) What sort of guideline do you suggest is a sensible price? There is a much better condition iiib for 145 and from the ebay sold listings (although not many) and various other forums and threads, it seems about an average fair price for a body in that condition. Edited July 31, 2018 by wavey Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
romanus53 Posted July 31, 2018 Share #4 Posted July 31, 2018 If you really want to use the body the condition of the curtains is essential to me as mechanics can be CLA easily but if the curtains are dry or broken or hve holes or wrinkles you have to replace them. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted July 31, 2018 Share #5 Posted July 31, 2018 Adding a flash sync socket was a pretty common ‘upgrade’ most seemingly done by camera repair shops rather than by Leica (they seem to have fitted them on the front of the body). As a user camera it’s not an issue and could be a benefit. The string sounds possibly like what was a price tag? Bear in mind that any you buy might need a CLA (service) in any case, unless you buy from dealer who will repair if there’s any issue. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted July 31, 2018 Share #6 Posted July 31, 2018 I think it is not wise to buy off ebay. Buy a camera you can check before buying or from a reliable dealer like Red Dot Cameras, London or Meister Camera Berlin (and quite a few others). Otherwise you are likely to be saddled with a camera that needs extensive repairs. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted July 31, 2018 Share #7 Posted July 31, 2018 Advertisement (gone after registration) I think it is not wise to buy off ebay. Buy a camera you can check before buying or from a reliable dealer like Red Dot Cameras, London or Meister Camera Berlin (and quite a few others). Otherwise you are likely to be saddled with a camera that needs extensive repairs. ...or at the very least a good CLA which costs up to £200 dependant on what is found on disassembly. I would recommend going for a IIf as a more recent camera and generally not expensive. The absence of slow speeds can be viewed as another thing not to go wrong (the slow speeds frequently are wrong). The IIf red dial model has both bulb and electronic flash sync, with the dial under the shutter speed dial. Wilson 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
schattenundlicht Posted July 31, 2018 Share #8 Posted July 31, 2018 Wilson‘s suggestion of a IIIf-RD is excellent if you want the latest true evolution of the Barnack LTM. The IIIg, although cherished by many, is a slight departure from that lineage and incorporates retroengineered M concepts. If you want the latest evolution, however, that Barnack personally authored, the IIIa will be a good bet. Some wearers of eyeglasses, like myself, prefer the older, larger separation between rangefinder/ viewfinder (III & IIIa) to the close proximity of rf/vf (IIIb onwards) anyhow. Be warned: LTMs are addictive. They tend to multiply. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
schattenundlicht Posted July 31, 2018 Share #9 Posted July 31, 2018 If you really want to use the body the condition of the curtains is essential to me as mechanics can be CLA easily but if the curtains are dry or broken or hve holes or wrinkles you have to replace them.+1And this is major surgery for us mere mortals... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wavey Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share #10 Posted August 1, 2018 I think it is not wise to buy off ebay. Buy a camera you can check before buying or from a reliable dealer like Red Dot Cameras, London or Meister Camera Berlin (and quite a few others). Otherwise you are likely to be saddled with a camera that needs extensive repairs. Thanks for the advice. Do you (or anyone else) have any experience with West Yorkshire cameras? They have both an iiib and iiif for seemingly good prices in store, £149 and £175 respectively, and an added 3 months guarantee. They are both listed as Exc (Good used condition - what you might expect from a used item. Some signs of use, but fully working.) but are accompanied by no picture or description. Comparing other Exc listed cameras hints that they are reasonable/quite good condition and I wasnt sure if it would be worth ringing up to ask specific questions, or straight up ask to see if it would be possible to get pictures. Sorry if this seems like basic stuff, I've never actually bought my own camera before! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reini Posted August 1, 2018 Share #11 Posted August 1, 2018 Write to them that you are interested. Maybe they can take 2-3 pictures and send by mail or whats app. A camera with warranty is always good. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted August 1, 2018 Share #12 Posted August 1, 2018 Ask them to take a photo of the shutter blinds. These should be smooth with no wrinkles or splits. The IIIb is rarer but the IIIf is nearly 20 years newer and has built in sync. Some older cameras have had sync retro-fitted to them. Sometimes this was done well by Leica themselves or their main agents, like R G Lewis and Wallace Heaton in the UK but sometimes "interestingly" done by Mr. Back Street Repairer. As a first Leica I would recommend the IIIf as a more sensible buy. The IIIb is more of a collector item for folk like me, with 11 LTM cameras or even more serious collectors with dozens. Wilson 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ambro51 Posted August 2, 2018 Share #13 Posted August 2, 2018 (edited) I would take the IIIb over the f in a heartbeat. You’ve got a desirable wartime era Leica with distinctive differences. Pretty much every LTM offers the same end result, a good picture, why not use an interesting model? If you Really want to do a modification that would turn heads, have the IIIb professionally black painted! This model was totally satin chrome....though, a Very Few black ones somehow were done, Edited August 2, 2018 by Ambro51 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted August 2, 2018 Share #14 Posted August 2, 2018 One upside of the IIIb is that you can fit the MOOLY clockwork winder to it, both in the early 2 speed version or later single speed version. I love motor drives and have 2 MOOLY motors, 1 M4-2 Winder and a Motor-M. You can fit the external-arm-free MOOLY-C to the IIIc but these are rare and very expensive. If you ever decide to buy a MOOLY, make sure that it has the actuator arm with it. I was offered an immaculate and rare grey paint MOOLY but with no arm. I checked everywhere and there are no spare arms available. Norman Goldberg had some made around 40-50 years ago but they are all long sold. Wilson 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 2, 2018 Share #15 Posted August 2, 2018 ... It has a flash sync later added between the two eyepiece viewfinders which I'd never use, but could it do anything to compromise the longevity/durability of the camera in the long run? ... Are you sure this strange synchronization did not damage something at the viewfinders? Apart from that, it might be difficult to switch between the two viewfinders when a sync cable is plugged in. For me an absolute no go, especially since many other undamaged M39 Leicas are still available. Nothing against conversions, I own a IIIa syn, but its synchronization and modernization was done by Leica in Wetzlar. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wavey Posted August 3, 2018 Author Share #16 Posted August 3, 2018 (edited) REPLY Honestly im not sure, but either way it is definitely a better idea not to go for that specific body and find something else in better condition. The iiib from WY cameras is apparently in pretty good condition and everything is working, apart from the slow shutters being a little slower than they should be. Not received any pictures yet as that member of staff has not had a chance to send them. Sent a message about the iiif but im assuming it will be a similar situation (as all these screw leicas that havent had a CLA seem to be in!). On the other hand, a forum user has also offered to sell me one from his collection with home CLA which seems too good to be true but we must talk some more. Today is also the first time ive heard of the iiia syn from both you and him so that too will need more research as im not 100% sure what it entails. Thanks everyone for the help so far Edited August 3, 2018 by wavey Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ambro51 Posted August 3, 2018 Share #17 Posted August 3, 2018 ......I guarantee your GAS Attack will eventually result in you owning a Model 1A. :-) 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ambro51 Posted August 3, 2018 Share #18 Posted August 3, 2018 Check the IIIb serial number with cameraquest and see which production run it was. The first run was small, only 1000 cameras. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wavey Posted August 3, 2018 Author Share #19 Posted August 3, 2018 ......I guarantee your GAS Attack will eventually result in you owning a Model 1A. :-) To be fair i did tell myself 1 camera and 1 lens for at least a year. Failed myself on the lens and now you lot are helping my break my promise on the camera, but i can definitely guarantee you that i will never own a scale focus Im still learning film photography and adding wrong focus to the mix would not help one bit Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemgb Posted August 3, 2018 Share #20 Posted August 3, 2018 To be fair i did tell myself 1 camera and 1 lens for at least a year. Failed myself on the lens and now you lot are helping my break my promise on the camera, but i can definitely guarantee you that i will never own a scale focus Im still learning film photography and adding wrong focus to the mix would not help one bit Scale focus is awesome, you'll love it when you buy your first one. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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