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squaxor

What User Profiles do you use?

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What different User Profiles do you use on you Leica M10?

 

So far I only use two:

  1. Norm: For general conditions (see attachment)
  2. Mono: For monochrome shooting

For Mono I've made the following changes to the 'Norm' settings:

  • File format: DNG + JPG
  • Max ISO: 50,000 (I want that grain sometimes)
  • JPG settings:
    • Contrast, sharpness, Saturation: High
    • Monochrome: On

 

I've attached a PDF of the settings I use. It was created by the legendary John Greengo. I think it's only fair to link to his course 'Leica M10 Fast Start' which I can highly recommend. For the record, I have no connection to this company nor do I get a referral payment.

Leica M10 settings copy.pdf

Edited by squaxor

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I've just watched the Leica M10 video masterclass from Thorsten Overgaard. he recommends the following settings:

 

  1. Drive mode: Continuous (low) - better to capture a few too many shots than too few
  2. Exposure metering: Centre-weighted- he believes that the multi-metering is inferior to user-control.
  3. JPG settings: All at 'standard'
  4. Display and EVF brightness: Medium - to keep light levels consistent 
  5. Auto review: Off - it's easier to check using Play
  6. File numbering: Rename to 'M10_'  - This makes it easier to identify in post-production
Edited by squaxor

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hi squaxor!

 

can you please tell me what setting thorsten recommends for the exposure clipping:

Lower Limit: ?? (2)

Upper Limit ?? (252)

 

thx

jb

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I like your question a lot as this is difficult to decide. What I want is having settings so that in LR I can easily correct. My setting is 2 and 253.

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hi squaxor!

 

can you please tell me what setting thorsten recommends for the exposure clipping:

Lower Limit: ?? (2)

Upper Limit ?? (252)

 

thx

jb

Buj.

The settings for exposure clipping do not affect your jpg or dng images. They simply set the levels at which your screen displays a coloured warning of extreme dark and highlights that probably contain no data.

Here’s Thorsten Overgaard’s explanation extracted from a page of his blog. Easily found via a google search.

 

 

“Clipping definition is not affecting the actual image. It is only your definition of when you want to see red (bright areas) or blue (dark areas) blinking areas in the photo on the preview screen, telling you if the images tonality is wider than what you have defined. Then you can adjust your exposure and retake the image.

 

Now, what is all this about?

——————

Traditionally, an image should not go from total white to total black. Back in the printing days, when an image went over in total white, there would be a distinct break between the grey tones to the white. So the image would "float into" the white paper where there is no tones. Likewise, in the print days, if an image went all the way to black, it would sort of seem out of control and clash together in the dark areas.

Tones should go from almost white to almost black, not from full white to full black.

Hence, the rule for prepress for print was and is that one stay away from complete white and complete black.

In screen work the same rule should be applied as an image will else float together a white background on the screen. So keeping the bright tones a little defined maintain the illusion of a frame.

The scale goes from 0 to 255 as it is the RGB scale (Red Green Blue). Generally one should define an images range to 2/253 so that you avoid the image going to total white and total black, but remaining almost white and almost black as the extremes. That is the right way to do it.”

 

————-

Edited by lucerne

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yes of course. It is just important to see the clipping optically. That it does not affect jpg’s nor dng’s is fully clear

Edited by Alex U.

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hi squaxor!

 

can you please tell me what setting thorsten recommends for the exposure clipping:

Lower Limit: ?? (2)

Upper Limit ?? (252)

 

thx

jb

Hi,

 

He doesn't mention clipping values as far as I remember. However, John Greengo mentions 5 and 245.

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Hi,

 

He doesn't mention clipping values as far as I remember. However, John Greengo mentions 5 and 245.

I believe that these settings would result in very much showing as clipped. Most of that you could fix in LR. I look for setting that I can take as a real warning. For me that is 2 and 253. But it depends very much on the situation.

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Hi,

 

He doesn't mention clipping values as far as I remember. However, John Greengo mentions 5 and 245.

As I pointed out earlier. It doesn’t matter what setting he uses the image would always be the same. Just a stronger colour warning on the view screen. In other words, highlights clipped or shadows too dark through an over or under exposure would be warned, and yes, an adjustment in lightroom might sort it out. Better still, retake the image.

Clipping values will not alter your exposure directly, and they don’t get transferred to your image processor.

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As I pointed out earlier. It doesn’t matter what setting he uses the image would always be the same. Just a stronger colour warning on the view screen. In other words, highlights clipped or shadows too dark through an over or under exposure would be warned, and yes, an adjustment in lightroom might sort it out. Better still, retake the image.

Clipping values will not alter your exposure directly, and they don’t get transferred to your image processor.

I agree fully with that. And therefor the setting should be in a way that thre is no unnecessary warning. In Post #8 I did not make myself clear enough (language problem). So my settings are 2 and 253.

 

What are yours? I think that it is not fully evident. There are situations where the warning comes too soon and then again too late. I believe that my settings are about a compromise.

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