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I got myself a Voigtlander 15mm lens to go on my m262 for my England trip.  I had a great time shooting landscape and buildings with it.

I shot everything in RAW+JPEG.  For on camera review, I was just using B+W only.

 

I was preparing for some sort of vignette from such a wide angle lens, but I did not expect to see the magenta coloured vignette.

 

I am wondering if anyone can give me some guidance on how to remove the magenta vignette.  (See attached photo)

 

 

Thank you very much

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There is Cornerfix, writen by a forum member, for taking that out. https://sourceforge.net/projects/cornerfix/

 

Otherwise it depends on what your main image software is. In full Photoshop, it is relatively easy to select a circular area out from the center of the image to the mid-point of the vignetting, feather that 150-250 pixels or so (very soft edge) , select "inverse" to select just the purple edges/corners, and play with the "curves" to remove red/magenta as needed.

 

Which C/V 15mm version is that - I, II , or III?

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Here's a screen snap of fixing that in Photoshop - selection area outlined (feathering only 100 pixels for your reduced-res web image), curves adjusted to remove red and a touch of blue (and while I was at it, remove some non-color vignetting as well, with an increase in the total RGB brightness (black curve).

 

You can also try IDing/selecting the lens in the camera menu as a "21mm 11134" (old 1980s 21 Elmarit non-ASPH) which will apply the (rather strong) color vignetting removal for that lens, automatically, as you shoot. Test it first to be sure the 21 corrections look OK to your eye. If that is too much (too green), try IDing the 15 as the 16-18-21 Tri-Elmar, or one of the other wider Leica lenses.

 

Edited by adan

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There is Cornerfix, writen by a forum member, for taking that out. https://sourceforge.net/projects/cornerfix/

 

Otherwise it depends on what your main image software is. In full Photoshop, it is relatively easy to select a circular area out from the center of the image to the mid-point of the vignetting, feather that 150-250 pixels or so (very soft edge) , select "inverse" to select just the purple edges/corners, and play with the "curves" to remove red/magenta as needed.

 

Which C/V 15mm version is that - I, II , or III?

 

I am only using Lightroom CC now (I hope it has similar functions). 

I'm the kind of shooter who doesn't do much post work.  With this kind of problem, forces me to look into fixing it.  Especially I have quite a lot of photos appearing with this vignette.

 

I do believe it is the "II" version.  I bought it second hand without the original box.

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If you want to avoid post-processing, definitely try "lying" to your M240 about which lens is mounted, using the lens selection menu to experiment with the corrections for 21, 24, or 28 lenses, to see if one of those mostly removes the magenta correctly right in the camera.

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Use flat field correction for one-click removal. It is incorporated in Capture One, and there used to be a plugin for Lightroom -I don't know if there still is.

Basically you shoot a reference image through a white sheet of paper with the lens in question under similar light as the original images and the program will correct the cast with one click.

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My approach is to convert to B&W.

 

I have the original screw mount 15mm, the later M mount one is meant to be better in this regard. If it was a focal length I used very often I'd get the newer lens.

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The V.I and V.II (M-mount) 15mm Super-Wide Heliars are the same optics in different mounts, and produce the same amount of color vignetting. It is the v.III (in M and other mounts) that eliminates the color-vignetting problem via a longer, more "telecentric" optical layout.

 

https://www.sonyalpharumors.com/very-first-voigtlander-heliar-15mm-iii-review-on-the-a7r-and-a7ii/

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I am only using Lightroom CC now (I hope it has similar functions). 

I'm the kind of shooter who doesn't do much post work.  With this kind of problem, forces me to look into fixing it.  Especially I have quite a lot of photos appearing with this vignette.

 

I do believe it is the "II" version.  I bought it second hand without the original box.

 

In LR, are you checking the PROFILE in the LENS CORRECTION panel? There is profile there for your lens, it may be sufficient to correct your images. 

Cornerfix is both free and easy enough to use.

You can download the LR flat field plug-in from Adobe Labs, it is also free. I have not used that method.

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In LR, are you checking the PROFILE in the LENS CORRECTION panel? There is profile there for your lens, it may be sufficient to correct your images. 

Cornerfix is both free and easy enough to use.

You can download the LR flat field plug-in from Adobe Labs, it is also free. I have not used that method.

 

Yes, the lens correction feature was the first thing I tried.  It minimizes the problem just a little bit.

I will try this Flat Field plug-in. 

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My approach is to convert to B&W.

 

I have the original screw mount 15mm, the later M mount one is meant to be better in this regard. If it was a focal length I used very often I'd get the newer lens.

 

As I was shooting RAW + JPEG, I do have a copy in B&W for every shots already and they look fantastic.  On the other hand, for some of the images, I do like them to show the colours.

 

I didn't think I would enjoy using the 15mm so much, as the 21mm didn't do much for me.  If the later version is better, it worth me thinking about upgrading mine then.

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I've got a few wide angle lenses (15mm, 21mm, 28mm) which leave a red edge on my M-P (240 typ). Lens coding does not get rid of this problem.

 

The LR Flat Field plug-in works perfectly, and is very quick to correct the raw DNG's. Perfectly for vignetting and/or colour edges.

 

Some talk of reducing, or nearly getting the fix with lens coding and other methods...but it is either fixed completely, or it is not fixed, and still has some red edges.

 

It's certainly an annoyance, but very simple to correct.

 

 

...

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Unfortunately, I can do none of the suggested!

 

I have using the new Lr CC not the Classic CC, so I don’t even have plug-in manager or anything. My package is not the one with Photoshop included either.

 

Is there any other way to fix this? Perhaps I have to invest on a standalone Photo editing app?

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Have you tried Cornerfix? That should work quite nicely. You,of course, have to photograph an evenly lit white shot first — for my 21 mm, I made two sample shots, one at f/4 and another at f/11, to create the Cornefix correction files. When using Cornerfix, you end up with bothe the untouched original file and anew one with a CF extension in the name.

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Raw Therapee (donation-only) and Picture Window Pro vers. 7 (currently free while Digital Light & Color prepares vers. 8). Simple operations. PWP has a great Selective Color modification tool.

 

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This is made in Photoshop, one minute time to get rid of the magenta vignette with the curves.

I think you should provide yourself of the CV 15 series III, the only one that do not get magenta vignette on the M 240

 

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Just an idea:  Make a mask in Photoshop (very cheap for a monthly subscription) and desaturate magenta

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I got myself a Voigtlander 15mm lens to go on my m262 for my England trip.  I had a great time shooting landscape and buildings with it.

I shot everything in RAW+JPEG.  For on camera review, I was just using B+W only.

 

I was preparing for some sort of vignette from such a wide angle lens, but I did not expect to see the magenta coloured vignette.

 

I am wondering if anyone can give me some guidance on how to remove the magenta vignette.  (See attached photo)

 

 

Thank you very much

L1001897.jpg

I have the V.1 and I have seen the color vignette happen, but it's only really noticeable on shots where the corners are a solid, light color.  If you hadn't mentioned about magenta in this shot I would not have noticed it, and definitely wouldn't have bothered with PP on it.  Although I also have the VIII which is free of this issue, I still prefer travelling with the V.1 due to it's much smaller size and weight.  I'm just careful to check if I have a white or light solid area in the bottom corners (doesn't seem to affect the top corners as much), because those I may need to PP. 

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