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Summilux 35 1.4 pre ASPH compatibility with M8 M9 focus problem

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There are certain Leica Summilux 35 1.4 non ASPH lenses that are incompatible with the M8 or M9.  I have one that is made in Canada.  I looked everywhere to find clues on how to fix the issue.  I found little pieces of information and I wanted to do everyone else a favor by taking a video of how I resolved the issue.  

 

First, to test if you have a problem - Set the focus to 3 feet (not to infinity).  Mount the lens into your M8 or M9.  Move the focus ring toward infinity GENTLY.  If you feel resistance before infinity - stop.  You have the issue.  Now, to unmount, backup your focus ring to 3 feet again and then dismount.  If you have the issue, do not try to mount the lens while focus is set to infinity.  Bad.

 

The problem - There is a shroud that sticks out (a black piece of aluminum highlighted in my video) at the back of the lens.  This shroud increases in height as you move to infinity.  The M8 and M9 body is preventing that shroud to further stick out while moving to infinity.  I have highlighted in the video exactly which part of the shroud is hitting.  I also show how I've done the job myself of shaving 1mm off the shroud to allow the focus to get to infinity without obstruction.  There are illustrations that say measure 7mm from the bottom of the ring to measure exactly how much to shave, but my video shows what I've done and it works for me.  I'm now a happy camper.  Happy enough to share what I did.  

 

PS:  I did not show it but I did tape the lens glass to protect it while I was grinding the shroud with my dremel tool.

 

Here is the video for future adventurers:

 

https://vimeo.com/275145377

 

Ronnie

 

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Thank you for the welcome. I thought I would contribute my finding so I made a video of my fixing it. The little info I found were vague on what actually was needed to be done.

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Thank you for the welcome. I thought I would contribute my finding so I made a video of my fixing it. The little info I found were vague on what actually was needed to be done.

I appreciate the video. Thank you.

 

The final frame showing the shaved area is important. You may have mentioned this in the sound track, but I could not hear, so permit me to mention that the area to shave is always in that position. Some might have the impression that that shield and/or the focusing cam rotates. It does not, so others can confidently use your image for direction.

 

(I hope that posting the frame is ok. Can take it down if you wish.)

Edited by pico

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Thank you for the welcome. I thought I would contribute my finding so I made a video of my fixing it. The little info I found were vague on what actually was needed to be done.

 

My bad, i did not watch the whole video sorry. You are brave to use a dremel this way. I did it once on a Summicron 40/2 to bring up 35mm framelines but i feared to do it again on another copy. I would follow Pico's advice, he knows this lens like nobody else.

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Are the lenses that need altered just random or specific serial numbers? I was lucky with mine as I had no trouble using it on M digitals. If it did need altered I wouldn't use a dremel I would just go slowly with a file. Well done Ronnie for the video good info.

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Are the lenses that need altered just random or specific serial numbers? I was lucky with mine as I had no trouble using it on M digitals. If it did need altered I wouldn't use a dremel I would just go slowly with a file. Well done Ronnie for the video good info.

 

I can only tell you that my 35/1.4 Summilux pre-asph (v2) does not have this issue and its serial number is 2392xxx.

 

Mine was also made in Canada and the only difference from Ronnie's lens is the position of the feet and metre marks whose positions are reversed; on mine the metre marks are closer to the front of the lens on the focussing ring.

 

Pete.

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According to Leica's instructions manuals, an adjustment may be needed on « Some examples of the Summilux-M 35 mm f/1.4 (not aspherical, manufactured from 1961-1995, Made in Canada) ». Lenses made in Germany (like my 35015** from 1989) have not this issue then. Their serial numbers are 3394601 and on according to LeicaWiki (https://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/35mm_f/1.4_Summilux_II) but several Canadian copies are immune as well. Aside from Farnz's 2392xxx copy referred to above, i have no idea about their serial numbers though sorry.

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Years ago, the question of "which ones have the shroud ?" was anlyzed rather in deep in the forum… and apparently the conclusion was in accordance with Leica statement… "some"; and apparently none of the last Made in Germany; probably the shroud was a sort of "shim", inserted depending on final quality check… I have 2 Canadians of rather different age (1.765 chrome 1960 and 2.290 black 1968), both without the shroud.

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Years ago, the question of "which ones have the shroud ?" was anlyzed rather in deep in the forum… and apparently the conclusion was in accordance with Leica statement… "some"; and apparently none of the last Made in Germany; probably the shroud was a sort of "shim", inserted depending on final quality check… I have 2 Canadians of rather different age (1.765 chrome 1960 and 2.290 black 1968), both without the shroud.

 

Mine is somewhere in between: Canadian, 2167xxx from 1966, actually the last batch of V1, but exhibiting all the characteristics of V2 (no steel rim, no filter threads, hood w/ series VII filters). It has the shroud, that I filed down and now it works on my M9. I read somewhere that the shroud was there to protect the the glass that's sticking out from the lens body. The gap in the shroud is there for the rangefinder coupling. I remember there are, or were some simple drawings floating around on this and the rangefinderforum site on "how to".

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Mine was also made in Canada and the only difference from Ronnie's lens is the position of the feet and metre marks whose positions are reversed; on mine the metre marks are closer to the front of the lens on the focussing ring.

 

No issue with my Canadian made. Same metre mark location as Pete's. Focus tab with infinity lock. #22899xx

Edited by pico

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I appreciate the video. Thank you.

 

The final frame showing the shaved area is important. You may have mentioned this in the sound track, but I could not hear, so permit me to mention that the area to shave is always in that position. Some might have the impression that that shield and/or the focusing cam rotates. It does not, so others can confidently use your image for direction.

 

(I hope that posting the frame is ok. Can take it down if you wish.)

 

Thank you for posting the frame.  Definitely good to highlight.  I'm having fun with the lens now.  Just took some amazing shots with it today!  So happy.  

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My bad, i did not watch the whole video sorry. You are brave to use a dremel this way. I did it once on a Summicron 40/2 to bring up 35mm framelines but i feared to do it again on another copy. I would follow Pico's advice, he knows this lens like nobody else.

Yes, it took guts to shave it with a Dremel not knowing for sure if I was doing it right.  This is why I thought it would be good to share since it worked out.  By the way, I did tape the lens to protect it.  Also, I made sure the focus ring was set to infinity thus letting the shroud stick out as far as it could to give me some room to work with.

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Yes, it took guts to shave it with a Dremel not knowing for sure if I was doing it right.  This is why I thought it would be good to share since it worked out.  By the way, I did tape the lens to protect it.  Also, I made sure the focus ring was set to infinity thus letting the shroud stick out as far as it could to give me some room to work with.

 

Ronnie,

 

An interesting video showing how you Dremelled the shroud.  What would concern me a little is that the video shows some shards and scraps of paint still sticking to the edges of the shroud that could drop into the lens and bind it up, or worse, drop into your M9 and cause damage so (I feel sure you must have) I hope you remembered to clean up the edges before using the lens. 

 

Pete.

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My method of lens modification: Begin by obsessing regarding approach, machine set-up, proper tool, then set up; let it be for a while as I reconsider it all. Then when confident, a pint of Guinness and just go. So far so good. Guinness is good for me.

Edited by pico

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Ronnie,

 

An interesting video showing how you Dremelled the shroud.  What would concern me a little is that the video shows some shards and scraps of paint still sticking to the edges of the shroud that could drop into the lens and bind it up, or worse, drop into your M9 and cause damage so (I feel sure you must have) I hope you remembered to clean up the edges before using the lens. 

 

Pete.

 

Thank you for your concern.  I did clean it up the edges as much as I could and even touched up the exposed aluminum with sharpie.  I purposely showed before I did that to show better the part I worked on.  Thanks!

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The OP did tape over the rear element, which is good. While we are being keyboard critics, I will add that I fasten a running shop vacuum nozzle beside the cutting area and on days when my hands are not so steady (usually the case) a tool guide. If we do not have a tool guide I learned, thanks for military medic training,  finger rests, something for our DIY friends to consider. Watch any precision sculptor of miniatures to appreciate it.

 

Nothing is too good for our DIY Leica efforts.

Thank you again to the OP for his posts.

Edited by pico

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About M240 (and M10 too) the issue is exactly the same : my "un-shrouded" Summilux was right on M8 and my present M240 too : the M240 and M10 users guide reports the usual "warning" :

 

Some versions of the Summilux-M 35mm f/4 (not aspherical,

manufactured from 1961-1995, Made in Canada) cannot be

fitted to the Leica M or will not focus to infinity. The Leica

Customer Care department can modify these lenses so that they

can be used on the Leica M.

Edited by luigi bertolotti

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