Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Hi Guys,

 

I've been using my M6 TTL without an issue for sometime and then I left it dormant for around a year when I left the country...

 

Now the meter wont work

, the M6 would work fine and still take pictures if exposed correctly with an external light meter, but the mechanism now would not turn on. 

 

I'm based in NYC and have sent it to the Leica repair and they sent it back saying that they can't fix it because they "no longer have the parts", I contact Sherry Krauter and she said that she gets her parts from Leica, so if they don't have it, she won't either.

 

So really now I'm just asking for help!

 

Thanks!

 

H

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do get fresh batteries (silver oxide SR44 or 357) and clean the battery contacts properly to test (you may already have done this ...)

 

Sometimes it really is something this simple with basic electronics (he writes somewhat hopefully)

 

Good luck!

 

J

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Or **wind** the camera, to activate the meter.  But I'm sure that if you've gone as far as shipping it, then you, or the folks at Leica, have checked this.

 

Sorry to hear this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

An option may be to try and find a fully functioning M6 on eBay and use it to salvage parts. You can find them for quite low prices if they are beaten up externally and you also have a source of spares for later failures of other electronics. It depends on what you are prepared to spend on the repair.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There would be no point sending it to Germany .... I sent my  M6 TTL to them with a meter problem and they responded by telling me that they could not  repair it because the components were no longer available......... It was very disappointing at the time, but I bought a hand held meter and still use the camera

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By 1234
      For unknown reason(s) an oddity is happening with indicated exposure times seen in viewfinder. After making an exposure, for the next two exposures there is no variation in indicated exposure time when panning about with camera. After the third exposure, the indication again varies properly as you pan about different scenes. Then repeats. As if there were an unwanted exposure lock mode in effect for 2nd and 3rd shot of a 3 shot sequence..
      Cannot find any obvious settings error likely to be the cause. The bracketing is set to 0.
      Tried to reload latest firmware but it "completes" in about two seconds so never happened. Does Leica determine the actual present checksum of the loaded firmware and decide that a reload is not necessary??
      What am I missing here? Thanks.
       
    • By twcxz
      Hi everyone, 
      I'm currently working on a project to once and for all fix the analogue Leica CL's broken take up spool problem, by 3D printing them. 
      I've ran a roll through mine with version 2 of the spool and it works pretty good, but i'm working on version 3 which should be better still - I got the dimensions slightly wrong on this one - it's too short.
      How many of you CL owners would be interested in buying such an item? They'd cost around £20 and be sold through eBay all said and done, and I'd make a video showing how to take apart the CL and install them, as well as reassembly - International shipping would happen too through the eBay GSP as I'm UK based.
      The attached photo is version 2 and not by any means the final version as this is still in very early development, but the quality of the ones that go on sale will be much higher. This one was printed by a friend of mine, but I'm soon going to acquire my own printer and make them much better.
      I know also that this doesn't look anything like the original, but when I copied the original part dimension for dimension, curve by curve, it didn't work and suffered the same problems as the original.. immediately. Thus I simplified it and made it more "3D Printer friendly."
      Thanks
      Tom
       
       
       
       

      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
    • By karthikrr
      Hi,
      Found this lovely forum while searching for info on a Leica R4 body described as having a "small problem". It belongs to a friend who gave me the option of buying it off him cheap, in its existing state, and trying to fix it and re-sell to a collector. I have been reading up on this and trying a few things and had a couple observations and questions that I am hoping the experts in this forum can help me with.
      1) When I received it, I discovered that the shutter was not just firing with a delay, it was stuck and unusable. The film advance lever was stuck as well, indicating that the shutter probably froze midway through its cycle. The mirror was down, but the DOF preview lever was "loose". 
      2) The battery LED would light, but there was no activity in the viewfinder, meaning no leds or anything at all. The camera seemed dead. New batteries did not change anything. 
      3) After a fair bit of research, I found a thread (unsure where) that suggested "smacking" the camera bottom on a bed or similar soft surface. Somewhat frustrated, I did this, and it actually worked. The shutter finished its cycle and the film advance lever was working again, AND the viewfinder leds worked. I checked the meter and it seems fine too.
      4) Advance the lever (no film), press the shutter, and same exact problem. But over many tests, I discovered that in B and 100, both mechanical modes, it would sometimes fire with a big delay, and other times get completely stuck. Smacking always releases the shutter.
      5) Based on many threads in this forum, I believe this problem is typically related to dirty magnetic dampers. However, I find mixed information on how to reach the magnets. There was one thread that suggested it can be reached from the bottom plate and is easy, while another suggested it is behind the dof preview lever and complicated to reach, requiring some degree of disassembly. Unfortunately, I did not find information on WHAT disassembly is required.
      6) In the meantime, I have also found that in all of the electronic modes (manual operation, but shutter speed electronic), the shutter button actually never fully depresses and therefore the shutter never fires at all. It feels like a half-press only in the electronic modes. In the mechanical mode, I can clearly see and feel the shutter go much deeper and actuate something. 
      So my questions:
      1) Is the shutter button behaving normally? Is there something else I am missing, as to why the shutter button won't fully depress in electronic mode, but works in mechanical mode?
      2) If its the dampers, do I go from the bottom or the top? In any case, how do I get the top plate off and get any sort of serious disassembly done on this camera? I see one screw in the back, by the eye-piece control dial, and know that the top most screw on the mount holds the top plate down. But are those the only two screws? What else do I need to remove to get the top plate off? I am guessing the film rewind lever (on the left side, over the ISO dial) needs to come off, and the entire ISO dial mechanism probably needs to be lifted off too. What about on the right side, how do I get under the film advance lever and the shutter control?
      3) Given the fact that the meter seems to work properly, I am guessing the electronics on this sample are okay (its a 156xxxx serial number). But just to be sure, if the electronics are toast, how do I know this? 
      Any help/advice is appreciated, including an opinion on what price its worth buying at and then trying to fix it so I can keep it for myself, OR sell in working condition to a collector. A warning that it might be more valuable sold off to a collector in present condition than executing a botched repair and destroying its value completely is also taken in the right spirit. 
      Thanks,
      Karthik
      PS - I literally went thru every single page of the English forum looking for answers. Now after posting, I see threads related to this in the German forum! Is there a way for me to search on the other language forums? Any pointers appreciated, but please understand that I did a pretty comprehensive search and processed what information I already found before making this thread
    • By Herr Barnack
      I just discovered this little jewel and it looks like a good possibility for M cameras with no built in light meter.  Priced at $130 USD, it won't break the bank.
       
      KEKS EM-01 Light Meter Review
      https://casualphotophile.com/2020/07/27/keks-em-01-light-meter-review/
       
      Available at the end of August from F Stop Cameras: https://www.fstopcameras.com/accessories/keks-em-01-light-meter
×
×
  • Create New...