Leica M6 Newbie

[Sava Silin]

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Hi guys, I'm kinda new to film photography, so I have a couple of questions I hope you can help me figure out.

 

So I want to buy Leica M6 TTL Rangefinder, but I don't quite understand what TTL Rangefinder means and what the difference between it and normal Leica M6. Also, I want to buy 0.58, but I read that I can use it only with 35 and wider lenses. So basically I can't use 50mm lens or higher, is this true? 

 

Also, can you recommend me some film stock that looks grainy. I know Fuji Superia 1600 is a good one, but is there any more? Can you also recommend me lenses in the price range of 500$.

 

And please let me know if there anything else new Leica user must know. Thanks)

[jaapv]

Leica M6 is a camera with (TTL) light metering. The M6 adds TTL flash control with SCA type flashes. The M6 TTL is a few mm higher than the M6. I'll leave the recommendations for lenses and film to others

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[earleygallery]

Hi guys, I'm kinda new to film photography, so I have a couple of questions I hope you can help me figure out.

 

So I want to buy Leica M6 TTL Rangefinder, but I don't quite understand what TTL Rangefinder means and what the difference between it and normal Leica M6. As Jaap says the 'TTL' model has TTL flash capability. The M6 of any type has TTL light metering. The Rangefinder is the focussing mechanism - they're both rangefinders.

 

Also, I want to buy 0.58, but I read that I can use it only with 35 and wider lenses. So basically I can't use 50mm lens or higher, is this true? Not true. Why do you want a 0.58 model - you don't seem to understand what it is?

 

Also, can you recommend me some film stock that looks grainy. I know Fuji Superia 1600 is a good one, but is there any more? Kodak TriX or Ilford HP5 and you can enhance the grain by pushing the film and how you process it.

 

Can you also recommend me lenses in the price range of 500$. What focal lenght lens are you looking for?

 

And please let me know if there anything else new Leica user must know. Thanks)

[Brenton C]

TTL = “through the lens.”

[250swb]

Hi guys, I'm kinda new to film photography, so I have a couple of questions I hope you can help me figure out.

 

 

The essential difference between a Leica M6 and an M6 TTL is the provision of 'through the lens' flash control. If you aren't going to need the refined flash control you don't need the 'TTL' version of the M6. Both still have through the lens metering.

 

Wanting a .58 viewfinder is probably a mistake. This is an option, a rare option, that gives a more relaxed wider view when looking in the viewfinder. It is ideal when wide lenses are used most of the time. The downside is that everything looks really really small and far away. This then means if you want to use a longer lens the focusing becomes more difficult (but not impossible). Focusing wide lenses has the same issue, it's not as good, but with the increased DOF it doesn't usually become a problem. So I would recommend sticking with the .72 viewfinder if you anticipate using just the normal range of lenses (28 - 135).

 

For film you've identified Superia 1600 which is a colour film. If it is colour you want then it's as good as any. If it's B&W then pushing a commonly available film from 400 to 800 or even to 1600 ISO is probably better than using more expensive fast film stock. There is a lot of experimentation necessary with exposure and processing with fast films, what it says on the box is rarely the truth in the real world. Try Tri-X or HP5 push processed.

 

Lenses under $500 basically put you in the realm of the excellent Voigtlander Color Skopar's. They aren't the fastest lenses, so not so good for dark places, but are excellent quality, the 28mm, 35mm, 50mm, and 75mm would make anybody proud to have as a set. They are all screw mount so you would need a cheap adapter for each to use on the M6. If you want Leica lenses under $500, or faster lenses under $500 then you have a problem. You can get very old 50mm Elmar's, but you'd be better off with a Skopar. 

[pinchers of peril]

For a lens under $500 that is really fast, an interesting option is the 50mm 1.1 from 7 artisans.  I have read overall pretty good reviews on it and you can get it for about $370 USD on amazon or from BandHphoto.  It obviously doesn't compare to the Leica noctilux, but it is orders of magnitude more affordable.  As others have said, voigtlander has some good options as well that perform well.  If you are willing to spend a bit more, then Zeiss lenses are also a very good option.   Pretty much any lens that has the word "Leica" on it is probably going to start at $1500-$2000 USD on the cheap end and go up to ridiculous amounts that could put your children through college   There is also the option of cheaper "off-brand" lenses like Jupiter etc.  It sounds like you might be fairly new to film photography so don't get too hung up on the equipment part of it.  Honestly, your first couple of rolls you develop will probably be pretty crappy regardless of what equipment you have because there is definitely a learning curve... but that's what makes it fun.  Like others have said HP5 and Tri-X are pretty grainy and the grain increases if you push the film a couple stops.  HOpe that helps.

Edited May 1, 2018 by pinchers of peril

[earleygallery]

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Pretty much any lens that has the word "Leica" on it is probably going to start at $1500-$2000 USD on the cheap end and go up to ridiculous amounts

 

Not so. There are a number of options for Leica lenses, such as the 5cm/50mm Elmar (excellent lens, especially the Red Scale or later M mount f3.5 version), Summar/Summarit (LTM), 35mm Elmar/Summaron (LTM) maybe even a Summicron if he's lucky enough. Not forgetting the 9cm f4 Elmar.

Edited May 1, 2018 by earleygallery

[pinchers of peril]

Not so. There are a number of options for Leica lenses, such as the 5cm/50mm Elmar (excellent lens, especially the Red Scale or later M mount f3.5 version), Summar/Summarit (LTM), 35mm Elmar/Summaron (LTM) maybe even a Summicron if he's lucky enough. Not forgetting the 9cm f4 Elmar.

 

I don't count lenses slower than F2, ha ha just kidding.  Yes those are good "cheap" Leica options for sure.  If he is lucky enough to get a Summicron for under $500 then I'm going to have him buy me a lottery ticket

[Narsuitus]

...I don't quite understand what TTL Rangefinder means and what the difference between it and normal Leica M6.

 

I have the M6 that does not have the TTL feature.

 

The TTL feature allows the M6 to use Leica electronic flash units that control flash exposures by measuring the light coming through-the-lens.

 

I do not need the TTL feature because...

 

1. The flash units I use are not Leica flash units and do not have the TTL feature

 

2. I normally do not use flash with my M6.

 

Leica M6 by Narsuitus, on Flickr

[Narsuitus]

Also, I want to buy 0.58, but I read that I can use it only with 35 and wider lenses. So basically I can't use 50mm lens or higher, is this true?

 

Which focal lengths do you plan on using with your M6?

 

The M6 with a .72 magnification has all six Leica M lens frame lines: 28mm, 35mm, 50mm, 75mm, 90mm, and 135mm.

 

The M6 with a .58 magnification rangefinder has no 135mm frame lines. Therefore, if you have no plans on shooting with a 135mm telephoto, you can use this magnification.

 

The M6 with an .85 magnification rangefinder has no 28mm frame lines. Therefore, if you have no plans on shooting with a 28mm wide-angle, you can use this magnification.

 

Regardless of which frame lines are displayed inside the M6 viewfinder, all M-mount lenses will work on the camera. However, using the viewfinder for composition may be difficult without the frame lines.

[Sava Silin]

Which focal lengths do you plan on using with your M6?

 

The M6 with a .72 magnification has all six Leica M lens frame lines: 28mm, 35mm, 50mm, 75mm, 90mm, and 135mm.

 

The M6 with a .58 magnification rangefinder has no 135mm frame lines. Therefore, if you have no plans on shooting with a 135mm telephoto, you can use this magnification.

 

The M6 with an .85 magnification rangefinder has no 28mm frame lines. Therefore, if you have no plans on shooting with a 28mm wide-angle, you can use this magnification.

 

Regardless of which frame lines are displayed inside the M6 viewfinder, all M-mount lenses will work on the camera. However, using the viewfinder for composition may be difficult without the frame lines.

 

Thanks, I guess .58 magnification is the right choice for me, since I want to shoot wide photos. It works with lenses wider then 28mm, right?

[ckuwajima]

Thanks, I guess .58 magnification is the right choice for me, since I want to shoot wide photos. It works with lenses wider then 28mm, right?

M6 .58 has framelines for 28mm and up to 90mm. No 135mm framelines.

It works with lenses wider than 28mm, but requires external viewfinders, or guesstimate for framing.

[Ko.Fe.]

Where are magnifiers to make small frames larger. 

0.58 is great for 28mm and fine for 35mm lens.

Everything after 28mm needs external viewfinder.

But entire viewfinder is close to 24mm and with 21mm lens it is easy to frame by eyes.

 

28mm lens I have is Ultron 28 f1.9 ASPH, it works on M Leicas via LTM to M adapter. It is under $500 lens.

Same manufacturer made Color Skopar 28 f3.5 lens. Also under $500.

Here is new 35 f2 lens coming from 7 Artisans and it is going to be well under $500.

Next to it Color Skopar 35 2.5, Ultron 35 1.7 ASPH (LTM) and Nokton 35 1.4, all under $500 (used or even new).

Color Skopar also exist as 24 and 21 f4 lens. Also under $500.

 

ISO800 and ISO1600 C-41 films are grainy. If you develop by yourself and use developer over suggested limit it will gives grainy films.

[harmen]

I have a .58 M6TTL and a .72 M-A. I thoroughly enjoy the wider view for 28mm, which is my most used, since I wear glasses. Without glasses I would prefer .72. Even 90mm f/2.0 works, since with film the focus is slightly less critical. Also, if you only use 28 occasionally, I would go for .72