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Problems.....


S.Rolf

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Two problems with my 10 now after very little usage.  I mean, very little.  Still learning it.

 

First being I now have this dark perfect circle appearing on 99% of my images with all lenses in the same place.

It sometimes is not present at all but as I said, 99% of the time it's there.  Just this dark gray/black circle no matter what lens.

 

Second, my 50mm Summicron renders all my images in this yellow/green cast.  No idea what that's all about.

 

Kind of disappointed with this whole M10 experience thus far.

Any ideas before I send it in?  

 

Thanks,

 

 

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is the perfect black circle dust?

 

Did you accidentally turn the WB to a particular setting that is creating the cast?

 

There are many explanations both good and bad for these issues. Post an image?

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Shoot a blank sky or white surface with lens closed down and out of focus. See if spot(s) appear in same place in frame on monitor. If so, try a blower for dust before attempting any wet clean or other method. Use clean blower and hold camera upside down. Reshoot.

 

Jeff

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Although occasionally I do so myself, for the record, I would like to point out that Leica CS staff in Wetzlar strongly discourage ‚clearing‘ dust from the sensor by any blowing action whatsoever. They say that the particles will gather in various corners of the camera body, but will inevitably find back their way onto the sensor. :)

 

With ‚adhesive’ cleaning (gel stick), the dust is properly removed from the camera innards.

Edited by schattenundlicht
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Basically the white balance is not set in the camera, but at raw conversion by your post-processing program. he best way to neutralize the colour rendering is to use a Colorchecker card and software and save your own camera profile as a default. Make sure that your computer screen is calibrated regularly. Without that there is no proper judging of colours.

 

You will find a proper sensor cleaning protocol in the M FAQ:

 

 

Question: There are spots on my images, especially at small apertures.

 

Answer:
This is sensor dirt. All digital cameras with interchangeable lenses have this problem, but an M9 is particularly prone, because there is no mirror as extra barrier and the lack of an AA filter makes the dirt more visible.

One should prevent dust from entering the camera as much as possible. There are a number of strategies.
1. Avoid changing lenses more than necessary.
2. Change lenses in as much of a dust-free environment as possible
3. Keep the rear end of the lens as clean as possible
4. Change the lens with the camera mouth facing downwards
5. (This may be a myth) Switch off the camera before changing lenses.

But dust will come on the sensor anyway.
Consult the manual to find the sensor cleaning item in the menu and use a FULLY charged battery. Before opening the shutter blow out the camera (using a bulb blower, not compressed air or your mouth!) to dislodge any loose dust.

If the dust on the sensor is loose one can blow off the sensor using a good bulb blower, (Rocket Blower by Giotto for instance) with the camera mouth facing downwards.

If that does not clear the problem there are sensor brushes like the Arctic Butterfly by Visible Dust that are quite effective or the little vacuum cleaner by Green Clean. At this stage the use of a Sensor Loupe can be very helpful.

If spots on the sensor persist you are dealing with stuck dirt like pollen or oil spots and need to revert to wet cleaning. There are numerous threads on the subject. The Visible Dust products are highly recommended or the Green Clean wet-and-dry method.
Use a proper solvent for grease if you think you are dealing with oil etc. (Visible Dust Smear Away or Dust-Aid Sensor Clean (my preference)

Open the shutter for cleaning and blow it once again with a bulb blower or vacuum clean it, to remove any loose particles which might be dragged across the sensor and cause scratches.

Although the M9 is full frame and there are size 1 sensor swabs on the market, I prefer using the swabs for 1.3 sensors (and APS-C swabs for the M8)
Take a clean swab, put on three small drops of Sensor Cleaning Fluid and in two sweeps, top and bottow go to one side - do not over-press!!- and sweep back again, using the other side of the swab automatically.
Or, using the wet-and-dry system, swab with the wet sponge and dry with a couple of sweeps with the dry swab. Don't let the fluid spill over the edge of the sensor too much - there are electronic connections there.

That is all - close the shutter and test the camera by taking an unfocused image of an evenly lit surface at the smallest aperture.

In the unlikely case it is needed, repeat.

There are other cleaning systems, such as stamping tools. I find them quite effective, as long as there are no greasy spots on the sensor.
Just stamp, don't rub. They are a bit scary as one pulls the cover glass. Leica Customer Service seem to be quite happy using them, so they should be safe.
.
There are also sensor cleaning services or Leica Customer Service, but those are expensive and will keep the camera for a while. They may also not be readily available if one is traveling. Sensor cleaning is something any owner should be able to do himself.

If you are fairly certain your spots are oil or grease, it may be wise to omit the step with the Arctic Butterfly, as it may become contaminated by the grease. In case that happens it can be cleaned with the special fluid provided.
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It should also be clarified that both sensor dust (which is what it sounds like) and white balance issues (if that's what this is) are not M10 specific problems. They are traits that go along with every interchangeable lens digital camera that has been manufactured since....1999 or so. 

Edited by pgh
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Basically the white balance is not set in the camera, but at raw conversion by your post-processing program. he best way to neutralize the colour rendering is to use a Colorchecker card and software and save your own camera profile as a default. Make sure that your computer screen is calibrated regularly. Without that there is no proper judging of colours.

 

You will find a proper sensor cleaning protocol in the M FAQ:

How can the WB look fine using two different 35mm, 28mm and 90mm but not with the 50mm?

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Obvious question. Does the 50mm have a filter attached?

Yes. UV as they all do.

Oh wait. Crap!! That’s it!!!!

I just got done using it on my MP Film camera while shooting B&W and its got my Yellow Filter on it!!

Duhhhhhh.

Thanks!!

Scheez.... feel like a total dork

Edited by S.Rolf
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Yes. UV as they all do.

Oh wait. Crap!! That’s it!!!!

I just got done using it on my MP Film camera while shooting B&W and its got my Yellow Filter on it!!

Duhhhhhh.

Thanks!!

Scheez.... feel like a total dork

:lol:

It is an interesting experiment though, You'll find that you will never get a photograph with a yellow filter to match one without in post-processing. The missing colour information will always skew one or the other colour.

How did I find out? Don't ask... :(

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Yes. UV as they all do.

Oh wait. Crap!! That’s it!!!!

I just got done using it on my MP Film camera while shooting B&W and its got my Yellow Filter on it!!

Duhhhhhh.

Thanks!!

Scheez.... feel like a total dork

You have my deepest sympathy. You will be remembered and cited as long as this forum lasts*!

 

 

*By people who, of course, never made a photographic mistake in all their lives. :rolleyes:

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Yes. UV as they all do.

Oh wait. Crap!! That’s it!!!!

I just got done using it on my MP Film camera while shooting B&W and its got my Yellow Filter on it!!

Duhhhhhh.

Thanks!!

Scheez.... feel like a total dork

How did I know the answer?

Because I've been there, done that. :p

You are in good company.

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