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I see it happening all the time - users going back and forth, back and forth, in an attempt to "nail" focus as they call it. That is not focusing, that is fiddling. It looks like Autofocus hunting.

If they want speed, they switch to zone-misfocus.

 

The way to focus a rangefinder is:

 

Always set the lens to infinity, so that you will know which way to turn.

 

Look through the rangefinder and turn the focusing ring until the patch coincides. Spot-on is a fraction of a second. A focus tab makes it even faster. If I overshoot, I consider I made a mistake. It is just a matter of a bit of practice.

 

For fast moving subjects, use trap focus. Focus on a spot where the subject will be and release a millisecond before.

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Focusing with the patch can also lead to errors when being too fast - it can occur when focusing from a closer distance on a repetitive pattern/shape with similar linear or vertical lines next to each other. The patch might give you the impression that the subject is in focus but it isn't because you align with a pattern above, below, or on the side. To avoid error here, you need to double check the applied focus scale with the distance - if this is off, you need to double-check the focus patch alignment. This can cost valuable time especially if some situation in the frame is not stationary. This is one situation where I find AF to be the better option - but fortunately it doesn't happen too often. 

The position of the focus tab - if available on the used lens! - might help since it gives also sort of an estimate of the distance. This said, I have the focus tab on on two of my M lenses, and have never found to like it a lot to estimate distance. Likely this is because the majority of my manual focus lenses don't have the tab, and I never forced myself to remember which position stands for which kind of distance. 

Edited by Martin B
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Yes. This is addressed in the FAQ answer. Obviously there will always be situations that present problems for any focusing system.

As a wildlife photographer, I can assure you that it is very difficult to use AF on fur. The system cannot find focus. And it is virtually impossible to focus correctly if contrast is lacking - with any system.

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Mental note: do not use the Leica M when taking photos of zebras...unless one is feeling particularly masochistic that day...

 

Focusing with the patch can also lead to errors when being too fast - it can occur when focusing from a closer distance on a repetitive pattern/shape with similar linear or vertical lines next to each other. The patch might give you the impression that the subject is in focus but it isn't because you align with a pattern above, below, or on the side. To avoid error here, you need to double check the applied focus scale with the distance - if this is off, you need to double-check the focus patch alignment. This can cost valuable time especially if some situation in the frame is not stationary. This is one situation where I find AF to be the better option - but fortunately it doesn't happen too often. 

The position of the focus tab - if available on the used lens! - might help since it gives also sort of an estimate of the distance. This said, I have the focus tab on on two of my M lenses, and have never found to like it a lot to estimate distance. Likely this is because the majority of my manual focus lenses don't have the tab, and I never forced myself to remember which position stands for which kind of distance. 

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Mental note: do not use the Leica M when taking photos of zebras...unless one is feeling particularly masochistic that day...

Zebras have eyes and noses. It is a bit of a straw man argument. The technique is the same as on Autofocus: when confronted with a subject that the camera cannot focus on or the photographer cannot focus on , use something else in the same plane of focus.
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You know, the 24/36 (and more) megapixel argument is a bit like a guy saying to you 'I see you only have a four wheel car. I can supply you with a six or eight wheel car. They're much better.' I once owned a Nikon D810. Horrible colour and the extra pixels were of no discernible practical use.

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There are professional photographers such as those taking landscape or high end fashion shots who would need every megapixel on offer. For this type of photography, the huge megapixel count that the Nikon D850, hasselblad’s and sony’s can offer is welcomed.

 

The intended purpose of the M is typically for street and documentary photography, where extreme resolution is not needed. For these purposes, I think a large percentage of us would agree that 24MP is plenty.

 

 

You know, the 24/36 (and more) megapixel argument is a bit like a guy saying to you 'I see you only have a four wheel car. I can supply you with a six or eight wheel car. They're much better.' I once owned a Nikon D810. Horrible colour and the extra pixels were of no discernible practical use.

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Yes, of course, you are 100% right. And I’m sure contract detect AF cameras would have similar issues.

 

I was being facetious!

 

Regards

 

Zebras have eyes and noses. It is a bit of a straw man argument. The technique is the same as on Autofocus: when confronted with a subject that the camera cannot focus on or the photographer cannot focus on , use something else in the same plane of focus.

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I know you were ;) I used the joke to make an argument.

Zebras gave me a flashback (this is a pun!) Using a Sony Nex 7 on a herd of Zebra with AF + focus peaking gave me a complete flashing redout in the EVF. 

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Zebras aside ( ;) ), this photo taken with my M6 last week caused me some trouble focusing as I described above - closer focus distance, even focus plane, repeating lines. Fortunately the little branch and the white dot in the middle of the structure made it possible to adjust the focus by bringing the rangefinder patch view together. Without them, it would be very hard to do - at least with the 0.72x viewfinder. 

 

p2858589704-5.jpg

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Zebras aside ( ;) ), this photo taken with my M6 last week caused me some trouble focusing as I described above - closer focus distance, even focus plane, repeating lines. Fortunately the little branch and the white dot in the middle of the structure made it possible to adjust the focus by bringing the rangefinder patch view together. Without them, it would be very hard to do - at least with the 0.72x viewfinder. 

 

p2858589704-5.jpg

 

We should start a thread of most difficult subjects to photograph with a rangefinder. 

 

Wood grains, a heard of zebras, and haystacks would be quite high up the list..

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We should start a thread of most difficult subjects to photograph with a rangefinder. 

 

Wood grains, a heard of zebras, and haystacks would be quite high up the list..

 

Not meant as a critique of the rangefinder focus system since all MF/AF systems have their pros and cons. In 90% of cases I am still faster with the rangefinder focus than with EVF and focus peaking or focus magnification with manual focus lenses. 

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A rangefinder needs a vertical line to focus properly. In another forum someone discussed a picture of a butt crack they had taken with their Leica camera. I thought that must be the perfect photo subject for a rangefinder.  :p

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Oh you just crossed the line on that one...

...

...

...

A rangefinder needs a vertical line to focus properly. In another forum someone discussed a picture of a butt crack they had taken with their Leica camera. I thought that must be the perfect photo subject for a rangefinder.  :p

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