Small manual flash option for M10

[Simone_DF]

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Hi, I was wondering if there's any third party flash that works on the M10.

I was looking for something small and compact a la SF-26 but without the outrageous Leica price.

I don't need TTL.

[jaapv]

I that case any flash with an "auto" setting will work.

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[LocalHero1953]

I use s/h Nikon SB28 flashes, bought on ebay. Small, fairly powerful, robust, simple. 

[FrancoC]

I use this one.

http://www.metz-mecatech.de/en/lighting/flash-units/specialist-flash-units/mecablitz-20-c-2/product-information.html?mobile=1%20led%20antorchaTobias%27A%3D0%27A%3D0%27A%3D0%27A%3D0

[Photon42]

The question is: do you need any light metering for the flash. If not - you can use almost all flashes allowing for manual control. This is ok for controlled work, but not nice for the occasional moment.

 

Flashes from the 80ies used to their own light metering, which worked actually quite well in a lot of cases. Essentially, you enter the "automatic aperture" into the flash (e.g. f/4) as well as the ISO speed, and then set the aperture on the lens (f/4) and that's it. Better flashes have more "auto apertures", i.e. better choice. An SB-22 can be had for $20. Not large and runs off 4 AA Batteries. Nikon SB-22, SB-30 for example have the right size for an M. It this what you're are looking for?

[Simone_DF]

Hi, thanks for the recommendations! I'll have a look at the Nikon ones.

[brill64]

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Leica SF24D.

[pgh]

The SF-40 is just a rebadged Nissin i40 that has Leica TTL built in and a metal foot instead of plastic. The i40 is a great flash. So is the SF-40, but it's overpriced. I own both, they're basically the same. 

[RonM]

The SF-40 is just a rebadged Nissin i40 that has Leica TTL built in and a metal foot instead of plastic. The i40 is a great flash. So is the SF-40, but it's overpriced. I own both, they're basically the same. 

Yes, they are basically the same, but the Nissin versions will not do TTL with Leica, and does not have an automatic setting.   (Yes, the dial has an "A" on it, but there is no actual Auto setting available on it that reads the flash light reflected from the subject and controls its duration, which is what the older "auto" flashes did.)  Bottom line is you can't use an i40 with Leicas in an automatic mode.

Edited March 6, 2018 by RonM

[Narsuitus]

Since I shoot with a variety of cameras (e.g. small format, medium format, large format, film, digital, Leica, Canon, Nikon, Fuji, Pentax, Olympus, and a few others), I prefer not to use dedicated flash units. The Yongnuo YN 560 IV is a flash that is not dedicated to a specific camera brand. It may not be small enough for you but it is small enough for me.

 

Yongnuo YN 560 IV by Narsuitus, on Flickr

[RonM]

Interesting that you have the flash pictured with the venerable Vivitar 283, which does have an automatic mode, while yours does not.   I know the Yongnuos have a following, Can you tell if  you use it mostly for studio, or arranged/set-up work, or for all purposes.    How do you quickly adjust exposure in an event type situation, where flash to subject distance is constantly changing?   I am aware of the  technique of using guide numbers for determining exposure, but in these times, isn't that a (few) step(s)  backwards?

Edited March 7, 2018 by RonM

[Ickx]

The SF-40 is just a rebadged Nissin i40 that has Leica TTL built in and a metal foot instead of plastic. The i40 is a great flash. So is the SF-40, but it's overpriced. I own both, they're basically the same. 

 

Thanks for the tip. Just ordered the i40, looks like the flash I've been looking for. Nice with the manual dials and I don't care about TTL. 

[Gelatino]

Thanks for the tip. Just ordered the i40, looks like the flash I've been looking for. Nice with the manual dials and I don't care about TTL. 

Hi Ickx,

Would you please share your appreciation after getting your i40; I'am highly interested and surely not the only one.

[Narsuitus]

@RonM

 

For decades, the venerable Vivitar 283 was my workhorse electronic flash for shooting portraits, action, interior architecture, weddings, still lifes, macro, and candids. I used them mounted on the camera and off the camera. I triggered them remotely with optical slaves, radio slaves, and long synch cords. I used them mounted on light stands with umbrellas, soft boxes, and large diffusion panels.

 

Over the years, I owned and used eight of them. As they aged and stopped working, I repaired or replaced them. When I got down to only three working units, I decided it was time to replace them with the Yongnuo YN 560 IV.

 

I rarely shot my Vivitars in auto exposure mode. The main reason was because film, unlike digital, has problems with reciprocity failure at the low power/short flash duration settings. Therefore, I primarily shot my Vivitars only at full power. Instead of relying on auto exposure modes, I routinely used the flash guideline number and/or a handheld flash meter to determine correct exposures.

 

Since I rarely used my Vivitar's automatic exposure modes, it was very easy for me to adjust to the Yongnuo which did not have any auto exposure modes.

[Herr Barnack]

I discovered this on the interwebs yesterday - looks like it may be a viable option:   https://litra.com/

Edited March 11, 2018 by Herr Barnack

[Simone_DF]

I discovered this on the interwebs yesterday - looks like it may be a viable option:   https://litra.com/

 

This looks great!

[Ickx]

Nissin i40 – First impressions

 

First of all I have a disclaimer. I have limited experience of using a flash overall as I’m normally using available light and for the shots I take I’m normally not worried about noise and have no problem with cranking up the ISO. My perspective is therefore as an amateur trying to learn a bit about using a flash.

 

Regarding the i40 it is small, I bought a Sigma flash before Christmas to get started and this is significantly smaller. The base is more or less just big enough to fit the four AA batteries. As it is small it is easy to store, although the head tilts out when directed upwards so it will have an odd shape regardless of position.

 

The build quality seems good. Feels sturdy and the shoe is of metal. The dials on the back are easy to use, adjustments are easy. The only complaint is maybe that the power dial could require some more torque to turn but no big thing.

 

My impression is also that it charges fast enough, is bright enough and it seems to be a good portable flash. I did not really read the specifications before buying it so it was a happy surprise to see that it can also be used as slave triggered by another flash.

 

The head is easy to use and can be rotated 180 deg in both directions. A positive for me is that you don’t have to unlock it, just rotate it or tilt it without figuring out which button to unlock movement.

 

So far I have used it mostly with a TTL-cord for Nikon which works well. I have a Nikon camera as well, so I obviously bought the Nikon version that should work with TTL.

 

The aspects that I value most is the size and how easy it is to change the flash power. The build quality seems to be good and it is also not that expensive. I’m sure the Leica branded one is also good but with no need for TTL I don’t see the point of paying the premium.

[Bunza]

@RonM

 

For decades, the venerable Vivitar 283 was my workhorse electronic flash for shooting portraits, action, interior architecture, weddings, still lifes, macro, and candids. I used them mounted on the camera and off the camera. I triggered them remotely with optical slaves, radio slaves, and long synch cords. I used them mounted on light stands with umbrellas, soft boxes, and large diffusion panels.

 

Over the years, I owned and used eight of them. As they aged and stopped working, I repaired or replaced them. When I got down to only three working units, I decided it was time to replace them with the Yongnuo YN 560 IV.

 

I rarely shot my Vivitars in auto exposure mode. The main reason was because film, unlike digital, has problems with reciprocity failure at the low power/short flash duration settings. Therefore, I primarily shot my Vivitars only at full power. Instead of relying on auto exposure modes, I routinely used the flash guideline number and/or a handheld flash meter to determine correct exposures.

 

Since I rarely used my Vivitar's automatic exposure modes, it was very easy for me to adjust to the Yongnuo which did not have any auto exposure modes.

Hi,

 

I have a Vivitar 283 that I used on my Nikon FM during the 80s and 90s. I read somewhere that the 283 has a high (over 200 volts) output across a couple of the contacts on the hotshoe when it fires and that could ’fry’ the electronics in a modern camera; I don’t recall where I read that and haven’t been able to find anything else about voltages coming out from a flash. But I do remember getting a shock from the synch socket on the front of the camera body if I was touching it when the flash fired while mounted on the camera. I have never used the 283 on a modern camera - am I being over cautious?

 

Camel

[jaapv]

You probably are - Leica uses high-voltage circuitry in their cameras, at least they do so in the M series. By all means contact Leica Customer Service and ask.

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[RonM]

Yes, Vivitar trigger voltages vary depending on when and where they were made, but can go up in the 300 V. range.  

I remember reading that Leica M models  can work up to 300 volts, but you might want to check with Leica to be sure.

 

Also, you can add an accessory "shoe" to the bottom of the flash.   The unit is  made by Wein and is called the "safe sync"  It reduces the trigger voltage of the flash in its shoe to a save level, and attaches to the camera's flash shoe.  It is the Wein HSHS model:

 

http://www.weinproducts.com/safesyncs.htm