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Differences in development steps for C-41 and E-6


Martin B

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I am successfully developing at home C-41 color negative (and XP2 B&W) and E-6 based slide films using the Arista development packs. After I started recently working with the E-6 process, a few differences compared to C-41 became obvious to me regarding the recommended steps in the development procedures:

 

1. E-6 requires washing with water between first developer and color developer, and then afterwards before adding Blix. C-41 has no water wash in between developer and Blix addition - why? Would it be better to add a washing step in the C-41 process similar to the E-6 process to avoid contamination of Blix and stop the developer? Or is there a reason that this shouldn't be done? 

 

2. E-6 has no final stabilizer wash as it is done in the C-41 process. I understood from earlier discussions in this forum that the stabilizer acts to preserve the color negative - any specific reason why this is not needed with slide film? 

 

3. Is there a difference in oxidation stability of the developer used in C-41 and the two developers used in E-6? Are both color developers in C-41 and E-6 the same?

 

 

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I can't help with your questions, Martin - I just wish I could get E6 developing kits over to Malaysia. C41 is OK to transport, but E6 are hazardous goods, and the cost & rigmarole in organising at the seller's end seem to make that wish forlorn at present.

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I can't help with your questions, Martin - I just wish I could get E6 developing kits over to Malaysia. C41 is OK to transport, but E6 are hazardous goods, and the cost & rigmarole in organising at the seller's end seem to make that wish forlorn at present.

 

Sorry to hear this - shipping of chemical fluids has become also more of an hassle here in the US. B&H and Adorama offer most of them only for store-pickup. Better option is freestylephoto in CA - they charge for shipping and it might take a week for ground shipping from there. But in the end it is the most convenient option. 

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Sorry to hear this - shipping of chemical fluids has become also more of an hassle here in the US. B&H and Adorama offer most of them only for store-pickup. Better option is freestylephoto in CA - they charge for shipping and it might take a week for ground shipping from there. But in the end it is the most convenient option. 

Yes, Martin. European companies will ship C41 kits, but not E6. US companies won't ship either. I'll keep trying - perhaps I can get one of the logistics companies I work with to handle the DG paperwork.

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Hello,

it's been long ago that I did E6 by myself. Was in the 1990ties with a 5l Kit from Tetenal. Don't know, if this is still available, or if some is available, it is identical with the one I used. IIRC there was a stabilizer-bath.

Why you have to do all the washings between the steps I don't know for sure. I would guess, that since the slide is the final product, it has to be perfect. Not properly washed out chemistry might lead to reactions and may be stains, that would not matter so much in C41. But that's only a guess.
If I could it put a stop-bath between developer and Blix at C41 and the color definition becomes a bit better. Might be a indicator for my theory. But now I use a process for C41 with separated bleach and fix. There I won't do that, or if only with a washing after the stop-bath, because it might have some unwanted reaction with the bleach.
At least I made E6 as described in the manual, with all the washings, and it went out well.

Regards

Frank

 

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Hello,

 

it's been long ago that I did E6 by myself. Was in the 1990ties with a 5l Kit from Tetenal. Don't know, if this is still available, or if some is available, it is identical with the one I used. IIRC there was a stabilizer-bath.

Why you have to do all the washings between the steps I don't know for sure. I would guess, that since the slide is the final product, it has to be perfect. Not properly washed out chemistry might lead to reactions and may be stains, that would not matter so much in C41. But that's only a guess.

If I could it put a stop-bath between developer and Blix at C41 and the color definition becomes a bit better. Might be a indicator for my theory. But now I use a process for C41 with separated bleach and fix. There I won't do that, or if only with a washing after the stop-bath, because it might have some unwanted reaction with the bleach.

At least I made E6 as described in the manual, with all the washings, and it went out well.

 

Regards

 

Frank

 

 

 

Hi Frank, Thanks for your kind advice. Not sure if the Tetenal still exists, the one which was available for me was the Arista-based E6 kit. I will add the rinsing step with water next time I use C-41 and see if it has any kind of impact. 

 

Best regards,

Martin

Edited by Martin B
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I develop E-6, C-41 and ECN-2 so far for colors. :)

 

You could use stop bath between developer and blix in C-41 (diluted mineral vinegar will do).

The reason why it is not in the manual is because 1L kits are designated (officially) for small amount of films.

Contamination is not significant. 

 

Developer is developer. It is oxidizing. Squeeze air from the bottle and store it in refrigerator. It is applicable for all C-41, E-6, ECN-2 chemicals in the bottles.

I think it was Arista recently reported how they even freeze it.   

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I develop E-6, C-41 and ECN-2 so far for colors. :)

 

You could use stop bath between developer and blix in C-41 (diluted mineral vinegar will do).

The reason why it is not in the manual is because 1L kits are designated (officially) for small amount of films.

Contamination is not significant. 

 

Developer is developer. It is oxidizing. Squeeze air from the bottle and store it in refrigerator. It is applicable for all C-41, E-6, ECN-2 chemicals in the bottles.

I think it was Arista recently reported how they even freeze it.   

 

Ah, this would explain it why it was not mentioned in the C-41 manual! Well, too late now for my Blix of C-41, I used it without stop or wash in between developer and Blix (strictly followed the manual....). Next time I know better and will apply it from now on!

 

I store the developer in a glass vial filled to top with barely any air inside left. This avoids oxidation so far pretty well. I don't store it in a refrigerator, but at room temperature in a colder area of my home. 

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