jhgnag Posted February 27, 2018 Share #1 Posted February 27, 2018 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hello, I hope that this hasn't already been asked/answered. I've been frustrated with the edges of my pictures being out of focus with my 50mm Summilux ASPH when shot at f 1.4. I've attached two photos, with the second recomposed. The eyes when the subject is on the right (or left) is out of focus or maybe smeared. Is this normal? I tried this on a tripod as well, using the EVF to focus on the subject off to the side with the same results. It must be the lens... Thanks. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/282234-50mm-summilux-asph-edges/?do=findComment&comment=3469788'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 27, 2018 Posted February 27, 2018 Hi jhgnag, Take a look here 50mm Summilux ASPH Edges. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jdlaing Posted February 27, 2018 Share #2 Posted February 27, 2018 In both of the images the focus point looks a little left and forward of the figurine. In that case they are normal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhgnag Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share #3 Posted February 27, 2018 Here they are cropped. The first looks pretty good to me on my computer...maybe not perfect. The second looks blurry when the soldier is on the right side of the frame. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/282234-50mm-summilux-asph-edges/?do=findComment&comment=3469798'>More sharing options...
jhgnag Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share #4 Posted February 27, 2018 And the SL with 24-90, though not apples to apples at 86mm, f 5. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/282234-50mm-summilux-asph-edges/?do=findComment&comment=3469800'>More sharing options...
B-A-C Posted February 27, 2018 Share #5 Posted February 27, 2018 Mine has been insanely sharp, especially for 1.4, but I'm not a pixel peeper. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhgnag Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share #6 Posted February 27, 2018 Mine has been insanely sharp, especially for 1.4, but I'm not a pixel peeper. I suppose I have graduated to pixel peeper:) Eyes at the edges have just been looking out of focus or blurry to me, so I finally go to setting up some tests to try to isolate what is going on. Is yours sharp at the edges? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-A-C Posted February 27, 2018 Share #7 Posted February 27, 2018 Advertisement (gone after registration) Good question. I believe there is some inherent edge blur at 1.4, and the ASPH is better than nearly all other lenses at 1.4. Not an optical engineer but I think it's normal. Recently I went back to film so I can't tell you for sure. What I can say is that this lens at 1.4 on Portra is amazing! Hope you get it to your satisfaction. I suppose I have graduated to pixel peeper:) Eyes at the edges have just been looking out of focus or blurry to me, so I finally go to setting up some tests to try to isolate what is going on. Is yours sharp at the edges? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
anickpick Posted February 27, 2018 Share #8 Posted February 27, 2018 If edge performance is important to you when shooting wide open, the 50 Apo Summicron is your only option. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M11 for me Posted February 27, 2018 Share #9 Posted February 27, 2018 (edited) At what distance did you take your first set? Could it be that throught turning the cam on the stand changed the focus? It is necessary to turn the camera around the nodal point. Or else make the same test with the APO or set your Summilux to f/2 to try. Maybe I am wrong and this is not the problem. Edited February 27, 2018 by Alex U. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jankap Posted February 27, 2018 Share #10 Posted February 27, 2018 (edited) +1 You should test at a larger distance. Please read the blog of Jim Kasson about lens testing. Jan http://blog.kasson.com/lens-screening-testing/ Edited February 27, 2018 by jankap Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted February 27, 2018 Share #11 Posted February 27, 2018 (edited) Field curvature i guess. Focus on the eyes w/o moving the camera, or focus bracket if you cannot move the focus point in your EVF. You will get sharp eyes then i suspect. Edited February 27, 2018 by lct Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wda Posted February 27, 2018 Share #12 Posted February 27, 2018 At the closest focusing distance there will be a measurable difference between the central target and the edges. Either use a spherical background so that you have identical distances, or increase your shooting distance to test with greater accuracy. That is the theory. Why not concentrate your testing on subjects more typical of your real world needs? In practice, do you actually need to use maximum lens aperture at minimum focusing distance? I regard maximum aperture as a backstop in an emergency, when all other techniques have been exhausted. Unless you are deeply into art photography. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted February 27, 2018 Share #13 Posted February 27, 2018 It's simply that some (all?) Leica cameras are unable to focus at edges or corners. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted February 27, 2018 Share #14 Posted February 27, 2018 Focus-recompose without correction = misfocus, as demonstrated by the OP. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhgnag Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share #15 Posted February 27, 2018 Thanks everyone for your thoughtful comments. If edge performance is important to you when shooting wide open, the 50 Apo Summicron is your only option. Somehow I knew this would be an alternative. And I thought the Summilux was a ton of money for a 50mm... At what distance did you take your first set? Could it be that throught turning the cam on the stand changed the focus? It is necessary to turn the camera around the nodal point. Or else make the same test with the APO or set your Summilux to f/2 to try. Maybe I am wrong and this is not the problem. Probably 3-4 feet. I had done some other tests with a ruler, tripod, etc. I don't think it's turning the camera and the distance change. I say that because when I used Live View to attempt the focus from a tripod, it was as in focus as it could be. I think it was actually struggling to show me focus peaking, which had me question if it's the lens, and not me mis-focusing. It gets better at f/2, f/2.8 etc. +1 You should test at a larger distance. Please read the blog of Jim Kasson about lens testing. Jan http://blog.kasson.com/lens-screening-testing/ I will read it now. I definitely believe stepping back would improve things, but I take a lot of pictures of my 10 year old at about that distance. At the closest focusing distance there will be a measurable difference between the central target and the edges. Either use a spherical background so that you have identical distances, or increase your shooting distance to test with greater accuracy.That is the theory. Why not concentrate your testing on subjects more typical of your real world needs? In practice, do you actually need to use maximum lens aperture at minimum focusing distance? I regard maximum aperture as a backstop in an emergency, when all other techniques have been exhausted. Unless you are deeply into art photography. I agree. I think I need to stop using f/1.4 for pictures of my daughter. Something is always out of focus anyway. I'd test on real work subjects, but my 10 year old moves and has enough pictures taken of her. Please don't make me break out the pictures I have of her American Girl dolls that I tested with as well:) It's simply that some (all?) Leica cameras are unable to focus at edges or corners. Focus-recompose without correction = misfocus, as demonstrated by the OP. I don't think that this is the problem as I did a similar test on a tripod using Live View to focus on the side of the frame. Same result. I guess in the end, I'm just trying to determine if this is normal behavior for this lens. If it is, I will have to decide if it works for me or if I want to change it. I most certainly could be something that I am doing wrong, but I think I have pretty well isolated my concern with the help of the Live View focusing. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted February 27, 2018 Share #16 Posted February 27, 2018 [...] I don't think that this is the problem as I did a similar test on a tripod using Live View to focus on the side of the frame. Same result. [...] OK but how did you focus on the side of the frame w/o recomposing? Is your camera able to focus at edges? Just curious as it happened to me one billion times already... at least . Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhgnag Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share #17 Posted February 27, 2018 (edited) OK but how did you focus on the side of the frame w/o recomposing? Is your camera able to focus at edges? Just curious as it happened to me one billion times already... at least . I don't know what camera you have, but I have an M10 and tried it using Live View on the back of the camera to remove the rangefinder or lens calibration as a potential cause. I can magnify and point the focus point on the subject on the right side of the frame. From there I used the focus peaking and just what I could see myself. That's how I'm arriving at "it must be the lens". Edited February 27, 2018 by jhgnag Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted February 27, 2018 Share #18 Posted February 27, 2018 So you can move the focus point of your M10 to the right side of the frame w/o moving the camera at all? Just curious as i have no M10. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhgnag Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share #19 Posted February 27, 2018 So you can move the focus point of your M10 to the right side of the frame w/o moving the camera at all? Just curious as i have no M10. That's correct. When using Live View. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmradman Posted February 27, 2018 Share #20 Posted February 27, 2018 So you can move the focus point of your M10 to the right side of the frame w/o moving the camera at all? Just curious as i have no M10. Unlike M240, Liveview or EVF focus patch is movable on M10, also SL601. Old hat on Sony Alpha or my 10 years old Nikon D700.. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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