BernardC Posted March 13, 2018 Share #41 Posted March 13, 2018 Advertisement (gone after registration) Even though it can't really shoot past ISO400 and it's AF sucks It can shoot past 400, but the look changes. I really like what the S006 does up to 1600, it reminds me of Kodak VPH 120: a little more tooth, but still very accurate and organic. I only use the AF button to go from near to far, or far to near. Focus is so critical in medium format that I don't want to let the camera choose the plane of focus. Very small changes in focus make a huge difference to the final image. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 13, 2018 Posted March 13, 2018 Hi BernardC, Take a look here Camera decisions. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
JohnBrawley Posted March 13, 2018 Share #42 Posted March 13, 2018 It can shoot past 400, but the look changes. Yes of course. That was my subjective judgement based on the work I do. Since you wrote that, FW changes have improved performance, including blackout duration, although it’s still there. Yes, the review is quite old now and I’m aware of the updates. However, at the time I don’t think it would have changed my opinion. IN the end the point I was making is that I preferred the images from the 006. At the end of the review you comment on digital ‘medium format’ sensor size, and incorrectly state that both the S and X1D are 45x30 mm. Yes, I addressed the error in the comments. I’m not a professional reviewer, I guess i should have gone back and updated the post. I only posted it as a point of reference for someone in the same position as I was. I found the AF seemed to be “off” on my 006. It could rarely nail focus and I’m used to manual focusing anyway from the M and my moving image work. MF is faster and more natural for me. And once you’ve had facial recognition based AF it’s hard to go back to single point often wrong AF. but found it too limiting for handholding in other than good lighting conditions. And the split prism finder half blacked out at the slower end. The faster primes would likely have served better. Trade offs. Jeff I guess that’s where my comment about ISO comes from. Yes it does shoot well past 400 but I don’t think it’s useable. Add a zoom to that and it becomes a pretty difficult candid camera, which is what I’m trying to do. I odn’t know your style of shots. I’m handholding at F2.8 @ 1/60th and sometimes 1/45th and that’s on the edge of blur with a 70mm for me. My main camera is base ISO800 and shooting at regular movie rates means the shutter speed is 1/48th of a second (in terms of lighting levels) so it’s right on the edge of useable at ISO 400 for me with the S. On the M-E, which I think looks its best at ISO800 it’s great, but at 400 on the S with mirror slap i get a few misses with motion blur. Here’s a bunch of shots from a medical show I’m working on. https://www.flickr.com/gp/johnbrawley/50J612 JB Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McMaster Posted March 13, 2018 Share #43 Posted March 13, 2018 For a comparison, this is the S(007) with 70mm at 12,500 ISO (1/180th @ f2.5) john Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 13, 2018 Share #44 Posted March 13, 2018 If I was allowed I could post a few H6D at simalar ISOs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
xiaubauu2009 Posted March 13, 2018 Share #45 Posted March 13, 2018 Handheld shot with a Credo 50 ISO 400 1/125 Rodenstock HR32mm Alpa 12STC shifted 18mm (max on camera) 10 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgrayson3 Posted March 13, 2018 Share #46 Posted March 13, 2018 (edited) OK, I'll play. Hand held 1/8 sec IQ140, Cambo, SK35. I'm missing the point. Why are we posting images that have nothing to do with the S and come from radically different systems? --Matt Edited March 13, 2018 by mgrayson3 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agent M10 Posted March 13, 2018 Share #47 Posted March 13, 2018 Advertisement (gone after registration) For a comparison, this is the S(007) with 70mm at 12,500 ISO (1/180th @ f2.5) john The maximum that I've been able to pull from the 007 is 1600 for print. More than that and the photographs become too grainy for print. Hope the 008 can go up to 6400 or more. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McMaster Posted March 13, 2018 Share #48 Posted March 13, 2018 I guess that would depend on the size of print and how fine grained you want it ;-) I often shoot my Monochrom at 5000 ISO (and ND filters) to get the effect... john Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
xiaubauu2009 Posted March 14, 2018 Share #49 Posted March 14, 2018 (edited) OK, I'll play. Hand held 1/8 sec IQ140, Cambo, SK35. I'm missing the point. Why are we posting images that have nothing to do with the S and come from radically different systems? --Matt Good point, I don't know what I am trying to say.... Edited March 14, 2018 by xiaubauu2009 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 14, 2018 Share #50 Posted March 14, 2018 Good point, I don't know what I am trying to say....exactly Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom0511 Posted March 14, 2018 Share #51 Posted March 14, 2018 The maximum that I've been able to pull from the 007 is 1600 for print. More than that and the photographs become too grainy for print. Hope the 008 can go up to 6400 or more. IMO it depends a lot on the subject, contrast, high key low key etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J Posted March 15, 2018 Share #52 Posted March 15, 2018 Ott The MM1?. Have you tried the MM2? The reason I ask is that I too fancy getting something to screw the Noctilux onto, but cant make my mind up weather to get the MM1 or MM2. If i would listen to what my heart is saying it would be the MM1 but if I would listen to what my head is saying it would be sell the Noctilux and use that money to buy the X1D ................decisions decisions Neil Neil, there is someone on the Hasselblad forum saying that they are happy with the results of the Noctilux on the X1D. Cropped down to 35mm frame you don't see any vignetting and you get a 30MP image. Maybe you can kill two birds with one stone. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 15, 2018 Share #53 Posted March 15, 2018 Neil, there is someone on the Hasselblad forum saying that they are happy with the results of the Noctilux on the X1D. Cropped down to 35mm frame you don't see any vignetting and you get a 30MP image. Maybe you can kill two birds with one stone. i will check it out mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom0511 Posted March 15, 2018 Share #54 Posted March 15, 2018 but only for static subjects/ electronic shutter Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jared Posted March 19, 2018 Share #55 Posted March 19, 2018 Im a life long Leica M shooter. But have owned many many cameras. I currently shoot a M 240 50mm Summicron. I enjoy it but not like I loved my previous M9 Monochrom. I shot a Leica S 007 a week ago and was blown away by the renderings. Especially the black and white conversions. Like the monochrom but with massive resolution. I should add, I shoot mostly landscape. Very little street but some portraits. I've been toying with a few ideas and would love input. 1 Sell my M 240 w/lens and get a Leica S 007 & 70mm 2 Keep the M 240 w/lens and get a S2 or 006 & 70mm 3 Forgive me but sell the M 240 and get a Hasselblad X1D Thoughts? All input is welcome. Thanks in advance. Best Brian I was facing a very similar decision recently. I already owned an M10 with a fairly wide array of lenses (too wide an array, frankly, many of them were used by me only a few times), a CL, and an SL. I found the CL was really replacing my M10 as my candid/walk around/casual camera, and I preferred the SL to the M10 for landscape and portrait work most of the time, despite the slightly nicer sensor in the M10. What to do? I decided to sell the M10 and get something that was better suited for work that needed high resolution and high dynamic range. Should that be an S or the X1D? The M wouldn’t net me enough to pay for an S007, so it was either the X1D or the S006. I opted for the X1D and here is why: * Smaller and lighter than the S, especially with lenses * EVF rather than optical viewfinder (strong preference for me, others will disagree) * 4:3 aspect ratio * Higher resolution * Leaf shutter allows with flash * Ability to use Nikon strobes with TTL * Low noise chip above ISO 400 * Selectable AF points that allow one to zoom in for critical focus * Less expensive lenses moving forward; overal lower cost * Like the S it is well sealed against the environment I love the overall controls on the X1D. One of the few cameras I have ever owned where I never need to take my eye away from the viewfinder to control virtually everything. ISO? Check. Electronic shutter? Check. Programmed that in to the DOF button on the front. White balance? Check. AF/MF? Check. Rear button AF activation? Check. Shutter and aperture? Check. PASM? Check. Never need to take my eye away from the viewfinder for any of these. Not even the ‘Q’ gets to this level, and it’s the most intuitive camera I have ever owned. I didn’t spend enough time with the S006 to know if one could accomplish the same with it. It’s perfectly possible. This isn’t a knock on the S, just an observation that the X1D has a very effective UI. Here are the items that still need to be improved on the X1D either through firmware or in a next gen offering: * EVF has plenty of magnification and is bright enough, but it is too slow and low resolution to be a pleasure to use; it’s perfectly functional, but I LOVE looking at the EVF of the SL, and that is not true for the X1D * Desperately needs a live histogram; hopefully this will be a firmware fix * Touchpad AF point selection is not as elegant as a joystick or even D-pad would have been * AF is slow compared to the best of breed GFX * 300ms blackout after each exposure is inherent in the Sony chip, so that will only be fixed with an X2D, but there is no such issue with the S and it’s optical viewfinder. This doesn’t bother me for the things I use the X1D for, but if you were trying to do street with it this would be a very serious issue; no real ability to follow subjects as you snap away at 2-3 FPS. * Since there is no focal plane shutter (I’m pleased by this, but others would disagree), you can only adapt other non-Hasselblad lenses using the electronic shutter, and due to the 300ms readout time, rolling shutter effects are as bad in this camera as it gets. I don’t have any legacy lenses I want to adapt, but if one did this would be something to consider * Takes about 8s from the time you turn it on till it is ready to shoot * Would love to see image stabilization in some of the longer focal length lenses * Lenses are a touch on the slow side compared to Leica S, though this does help with size and weight. This is more “something to take into account” rather than a flaw per se. A couple fast lenses at key focal lengths would solve this. In your shoes, I would first think about when you would use this camera. Do you need ISO’s higher than 400? If not, the S006 is a contender. If so, eliminate it. Assuming you need ISO’s above 400, and ignoring cost differences, I would recommend you go handle both. Your choice will likely become clear—one way or the other. I preferred the ergonomics of the X1D. It’s much smaller and lighter and I actively wanted an EVF. Oh, and if you are worried about the lens quality/image quality of the lenses, don’t be. Bokeh (now that they have made a firmware fix to allow the lenses to shoot “wide open”) is excellent on the 45 and 90, the two lenses I own. Microcontrast is phenomenal compared to what you can get out of a 24 megapixel camera, though I would argue you need a fairly large print to see the difference. The lenses are sharp all the way into the corners even wide open which is very different from what I am used to on my M bodies. Not all that many subjects need or benefit from sharp corners, but for those that do the XCD lenses really deliver. I’m not saying the Leica S lenses aren’t equally good or possibly even better, but the XCD lenses are not likely to “hold you back” even on a 1p0 megapixel body in a couple or three years, assuming you eventually go that route. For my use, I’m not sure I even need the 50 megapixels of the X1D, but what the heck. 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
xiaubauu2009 Posted March 19, 2018 Share #56 Posted March 19, 2018 (edited) go for the GFX, tick almost all my box, except the longer than X1D flange distance... and far more affordable than both Leica and Hassy.. Edited March 19, 2018 by xiaubauu2009 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J Posted March 19, 2018 Share #57 Posted March 19, 2018 (edited) go for the GFX, tick almost all my box, except the longer than X1D flange distance... and far more affordable than both Leica and Hassy.. It would be great if someone made a Leica S adapter for GFX and X1D that retained electronics, focus, aperture etc. Edited March 19, 2018 by Paul J Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
xiaubauu2009 Posted March 19, 2018 Share #58 Posted March 19, 2018 It would be great if someone made a Leica S adapter for GFX and X1D that retained electronics, focus, aperture etc. That would be great! the problem though, I think Fotodiox has a dumb adaptor but apparent can't focus to infinity??? I would though Leica's flange is long enough to do that... no sure why. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
albireo_double Posted March 19, 2018 Share #59 Posted March 19, 2018 The GFX lenses are actually very good. No point adapting the Leica-S lenses, in my opinion. The Fuji 110/f2 is a superb piece of glass for portraits and the 32-64 zoom can handle most other shooting scenarios for me. And for really wide angle uses, the Fuji 23 is works as good as Leica's 24. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
xiaubauu2009 Posted March 19, 2018 Share #60 Posted March 19, 2018 The GFX lenses are actually very good. No point adapting the Leica-S lenses, in my opinion. The Fuji 110/f2 is a superb piece of glass for portraits and the 32-64 zoom can handle most other shooting scenarios for me. And for really wide angle uses, the Fuji 23 is works as good as Leica's 24. Probably the best zoom lens for MF on the market at the moment. But it's only 2x zoom so it's not as complicated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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