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Potential damage from over cleaning?


AdamInsights

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Hi All

 

My first post. Been a Leica M system shooter for about 5 years. I’ve been in the market for a 28mm Summicron and have found one that is ~5 years old being sold by and older gentlemen. Visibly, no scratches, no dents on the tube, and overall seems to be in order and results from tests are good. However, when I remarked that he’d obviously taken care of it he told me he cleaned all his lenses generally every fortnight with fluid and lens tissue (?!) personally I avoid cleaning and always use UVs to protect my lenses and fortunalty never neeed to clean a rear element. However, this lens as good as it looks has been cleaned very regularly whether it needed it or not it seems. The lens certainly reflects green so I’m confident in the UV anti glare coating. Could his cleaning and or the fluid have in anyway weakened the balsam? How strong is the lens cement against pressure or fluid?

 

I’m keen on buying it but I’d be concerned if he’d in anyway weakened the construction through pressure on the lens or with fluid (Giottos or Inca I believe). Otherwise, if the lens was in a shop and I was told it was new, I’d believe it.

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Balsam in -5 years old Cron?...

Anyway balsam was in use to glue lenses. Even if oldie was taking lens apart and applying unknown fluid on, it shouldn't cause balsam separation.

Lens coating has nothing to do with it. Last thing I would use is something called lens tissue. It is for glasses.

So, I would inspect lens for scratches and if not so many or none, clean it correctly and put protective filter on. And no UV if for digital. I don't think UV even needed for film these days... :)

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Could his cleaning and or the fluid have in anyway weakened the balsam? How strong is the lens cement against pressure or fluid?

Firstly, balsam is no longer used. UV curing cements are now used which are so strong that I have been told by an optical designer friend that it is almost impossible to separate elements once stuck together with this type of adhesive. So I'd be very surprised indeed if lens cleaning fluid had any effect on it. If new lens tissues were used they should be free from hard contaminants which could cause scratches, so again the (hard) coating should be fine. I'd inspect the coating carefully, perhaps even with a magnifying glass, and if you can't see any scratches its probably because there aren't any.

 

If you hadn't actually been told that the lens had been regularly cleaned would you have had any qualms about buying? Would buying a different copy allay your fears if you weren't told? Buying used means an uncertain history/treatment of the lens - but its very rarely a problem if the lens looks and tests ok.

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Many older lenses suffer from cleaning marks. Cleaning marks are actually light scratches caused by repeated cleaning.

 

I would check the lens carefully and shine a light through it (both sides) and look through the other side - this will show up scratches etc., that you might otherwise not notice. Expect a fair amount of internal dust, it's normal!

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Hi Everyone! Just want to say thanks for your info and advice. I've bought the lens, it has a couple of small fine scratches front and rear but nothing that will effect pictures. Really happy with it, and even given it a little outing already. When I figure out how on the forum I'll upload some shots. 

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There are three stages of cleaning a lens:

 

- A blower like you get it from the photography shop. Never blow on your lens yourself, otherwise you will deposit saliva and bacteria on it; at least redirect your breath with your hand so the saliva ends up on your hand instead of your lens. Never used compressed air, this way you would directly *shoot* particles at your lens.

 

- Optionally, for larger pieces of dirt that dont go away with the blower, a dry soft paintbrush. Obviously without paint, and completely clean. Just get one or a couple from a regular art shop. The ones you get in photography shops are not as soft and often are made from plastic.

 

- The last step: distilled water and cotton swabs. Thats how lenses are cleaned at the factors. Avoid expensive swabs not made from cotton; those would leave fusel. Put the fresh clean swap in the destilled water, roll it over a clean towel to get rid of excess water, then clean the lens while circling over it, slowly rotating the swab so it can absorb the dirt instead of distributing it further. Once you rotated it once, repeat the same with the other end, then use the next swab. This method will get the lens completely clean (once the water has dried), avoids causing cleaning marks as much as possible (if you actually used distilled water and not tap water containing small pieces of minerals that WILL scratch the surface) and wont attack the coating.

 

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Water will not remove grease or oil so you need to use a solvent to do so if there is any on the front or rear elements (from fingers most likely). Alcohol seems to be the most popular solvent and I doubt that it is likely to damage the glass coatings or cement. It won't damage metal nor anodisation obviously, but could cause problems with paint, adhesives or lubricants if used too liberally.

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I've used, dare it be whispered, Zeiss lens wipes for a number of years.

 

They are excellent and specifically recommended by Zeiss for camera lens use. They are moistened with isopropanol and ethanol alcohols and remove all stains and marks very easily.

 

Ernst

 

https://shop.zeiss.co.uk/photography/ZEISS-Lens-Cleaning-Wipes-zid4047865600712?tracking=searchterm:

 

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Water will not remove grease or oil so you need to use a solvent to do so if there is any on the front or rear elements (from fingers most likely). Alcohol seems to be the most popular solvent and I doubt that it is likely to damage the glass coatings or cement. It won't damage metal nor anodisation obviously, but could cause problems with paint, adhesives or lubricants if used too liberally.

 

OMG nope it wouldnt lolz you really shouldnt get stuff like that on your glas in the first place.

 

I was assuming regular dirt. The last step with distilled water is really the last step, to get all dust from the glas.

 

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