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Coding CV lenses for M10


madrigalmaster

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I haven't converted anything yet, but I bought a non-coded 90mm Elmarit that I'm going to convert. I bought the replacement mount from eBay and it arrived as advertised. I plan on using these instructions.

Is it really that important that you’d surrender the precision of a Leica mount for some mystery metal out of the “People’s Republic” of China?

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Is it really that important that you’d surrender the precision of a Leica mount for some mystery metal out of the “People’s Republic” of China?

 

Gonna try it out. If I run into any issues, I'll just put the old mount back on. Don't plan on tossing it.

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I coded my 35mm-and-wider lenses back in the M8 days without any template kit.  I used a fine-point sharpie to mark the reader's location on the outside of the body flange, then mounted the lens and transferred those marks to the lens flanges and divided the area up into six segments.  Then I made shallow pits for just the black code bits using a rotary tool (similar to Dreml) and filled them with flat-black enamel.  On my v.4 35 Summicron there was a screw in between where 2 black bits needed to be, so I removed the screw, made a single double-wide pit, replaced the screw and painted the whole area.   I was interested in having the coding work, not caring about whether it looked factory or not.  All my coding worked fine on the M9 and then M240 without a problem.  Not sure if they will work on an M10 as I haven't tried, however I have read reports the M10 code reader is more finnicky.  Guess I'll cross that bridge if and when I ever get one.

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I did recently code a LTM/M-Adapter using nail varnish (black and white). The recesses were present already. Works every time I use it. For the M8 I used the Match Technical template and milled the recesses in where required. Used a Dremel for the job.

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I don't bother since I like to be able to keep track of the actual lens I used for each image and to compare performance of different lenses . With my CV  lenses I manually select an appropriate Leica lens in the Lens Selection menu (so the image metadata shows the correct focal length) and then in post I use the Lightroom plugin LensTagger to change to the correct CV lens metadata.

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I don't bother since I like to be able to keep track of the actual lens I used for each image and to compare performance of different lenses . With my CV  lenses I manually select an appropriate Leica lens in the Lens Selection menu (so the image metadata shows the correct focal length) and then in post I use the Lightroom plugin LensTagger to change to the correct CV lens metadata.

 

Same here. I also use a bunch of vintage lenses and can't be bothered trying to code all of them (or their adapters if they are not in M mount). I have made it a routine to manually selecting a "proxy" code through the camera menu to keep track of the focal length used (I very rarely go out with more than one lens of a given focal length). Once I import the images in LR, the presets I have created in LensTagger take care of the correct metadata labeling. A bit cumbersome, but works for me. YMMV.

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I have no M10 but i hand code my CV 15/4.5, ZM 35/2.8 & ZM 50/1.5 with no problem on both M240 and M8.2. There is a little groove on current ZM and CV lens flanges for that. I use a Match Technical coder kit (http://www.matchtechnical.com/Pages/coderkit.aspx) that is not sold anymore but a template can be found on the web (http://www.bophoto.com/M8/2009-01-23-M-codeing.jpg) together with instructions (http://bophoto.typepad.com/bophoto/2009/01/m8-coder-simple-manual-handcoding-of-m-lenses.html). Suffice it to use a good permanent marker (mine is a "Zebra") and mark only the black pits. Beware that all lenses are not recognized this way though. Got problems with my CV 21/4 on the M240 which sees it as a 28/5.6 instead of 21/2.8 pre-asph and my CV 15/4.5 is not recognized by the CL for some reason. There is no harm in trying it anyway if you have nothing against DIY. Saves the pain to butchering lenses or using the lens detection menu.  

Edited by lct
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I haven't converted anything yet, but I bought a non-coded 90mm Elmarit that I'm going to convert. I bought the replacement mount from eBay and it arrived as advertised. I plan on using these instructions.

 

Only to have the lens information displayed, but to be less than satisfied by the outcome of your picture ....

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I have been trying and failing to code a Voigtlander 75mm f2.5 Heliar (LTM). I bought a metabones LTM to M adapter which works well. It had pre-drilled coding dimples in the mount, so I painted them with rustolium oil based paint (gloss), but still the camera sees it as uncoded. An ideas what I might be doing wrong? attached a pic of my handy work...

 

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Any help appreciated.

 

Cheers

Jonathan

Edited by robsonj
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I have been trying and failing to code a Voigtlander 75mm f2.5 Heliar (LTM). I bought a metabones LTM to M adapter which works well. It had pre-drilled coding dimples in the mount, so I painted them with rustolium oil based paint (gloss), but still the camera sees it as uncoded. An ideas what I might be doing wrong? attached a pic of my handy work...

 

attachicon.gifIMG_4134.jpg

 

Any help appreciated.

 

Cheers

Jonathan

 

 

Welcome to the M10.

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I have been trying and failing to code a Voigtlander 75mm f2.5 Heliar (LTM). I bought a metabones LTM to M adapter which works well. It had pre-drilled coding dimples in the mount, so I painted them with rustolium oil based paint (gloss), but still the camera sees it as uncoded. An ideas what I might be doing wrong? attached a pic of my handy work... [...]

 

Does the adapter bring up the 75mm framelines of your M240?

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I would try to rub out the traces of paint around the coding pits. 

 

 

 

I'll give it a shot. I read a lot about people using sharpie markers etc with success. That led me to think there was a reasonable amount of tolerance, but from what you are saying, it sounds like the markings have to be really really precise.

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I have been trying and failing to code a Voigtlander 75mm f2.5 Heliar (LTM). I bought a metabones LTM to M adapter which works well. It had pre-drilled coding dimples in the mount, so I painted them with rustolium oil based paint (gloss), but still the camera sees it as uncoded. An ideas what I might be doing wrong? attached a pic of my handy work...

 

attachicon.gifIMG_4134.jpg

 

Any help appreciated.

 

Cheers

Jonathan

Paint looks a bit shiny. Try rubbing over it with ScotchBrite.

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