M3 to M6

[spero pa]

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I was disappointed when my negatives started to show Light Leaks on the edge parts of my B & W film.

After several visits to a Leica specialist I asked them to examine the camera to fix the problem. They said

The shutter was good. So I carried on taking photos, only to find the problem had not gone away. Now I

started to have no confidence in M3. So what do you do you update, you buy another M film. I did this

only to discover what the problem was with the M3, and guess what was letting the light, the hinge on top of the flap on the rear of the camera, how to fix that and I quote (you rough it up a bit). Now don’t get me

wrong that M3 was a mature solid good to use camera, and when you pressed the the shutter sound was

brilliant. Now I know you want to know which M I updated too, ???? Well I can only say I preferred the M3.

[DickieT]

If you like your M3 that much (I can't blame you), I would go see a proper local Leica repair shop who can actually fix it or send it to Wetzlar. If you are addicted to the shutter sound and want to 'upgrade', I would go MP

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[Lorenzo Lietti]

I was disappointed when my negatives started to show Light Leaks on the edge parts of my B & W film.

After several visits to a Leica specialist I asked them to examine the camera to fix the problem. They said

The shutter was good. So I carried on taking photos, only to find the problem had not gone away. Now I

started to have no confidence in M3. So what do you do you update, you buy another M film. I did this

only to discover what the problem was with the M3, and guess what was letting the light, the hinge on top of the flap on the rear of the camera, how to fix that and I quote (you rough it up a bit). Now don’t get me

wrong that M3 was a mature solid good to use camera, and when you pressed the the shutter sound was

brilliant. Now I know you want to know which M I updated too, ???? Well I can only say I preferred the M3.

 

assuming you went M6...I am about to do the same thing...should I not?

[TomB_tx]

Matter of personal taste. I have a couple of M3s, and M2, M4, M5, M6. They all have their charms, but I much prefer my M6 to the M3.

[Michael Geschlecht]

Hello Everybody,

 

Welcome to the Forum everybody,

 

Light leaks of the type that you are writing about can usually be remedied relatively inexpensively by a competent repair person. Without "roughing up".

 

Leica film camera bodies, whether for screw mount or bayonet mount lenses, are like their lenses: They were designed for a long service life with mostly relatively affordable maintenance. There is a list of recommended repair people at the top of the "Leica Collectors & Historica" section that you might use for a starting point when looking for a repair person.

 

50 years or so is just the beginning of that long life.

 

This Forum is a good place to find out about things. Including how to solve problems like these. There are any number of knowledgeable people here who like sharing their knowledge with you. Ask questions & read all over, in all of the areas that you have an interest in. You might even look into some places you don't know that much about. You might develop an interest there also.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Edited February 8, 2018 by Michael Geschlecht

[ShivaYash]

Get the M6.

 

 

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[Ko.Fe.]

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M6 might get light leaks as well. Any old M could get them. M6 is as old as M3 now. Technically.

And this is how film M are made. Materials are getting old. Earlier this year, I sold leaks free M3, still working, C-seal, but keeping M4-2 which went for light leaks repair and if will show up and often again I was told to change curtains. And maybe main light baffle (part facing curtains)  will be needed to replaced as well. Total repair cost is going to be around same price I paid for this camera in 2014 (it worked issues free for me until 2016). And I already spend third of the price I paid for it for another repair. 

Recently I read how Winogrand was keep on buying used film M from stores where he was able to get good deal. I think, now I understand why.

I used money after M3 sale to buy another film rangefinder camera. New, made just few years ago and with shutter similar to digital M shutters. To have something while I'll have to send M4-2 for service. 

[kivis]

Maybe go for an M-A and start the counter all over with new.

[friedeye]

This is a common problem and covered by several threads on this board.  As Ko.Fe has said above, it has to do with loose shutter curtains not making contact with the baffle -- and it's not a simple repair.  Take your lens off and inspect the curtains - you can see if they're a bit loose and not making contact with the baffle. If they are, there's a YouTube clip about how to tighten shutter curtains on an M3.  It's not that difficult.  BUT - you need to do both curtains, and not too much: maybe only a quarter turn.  Otherwise, you could affect the shutter timing.  I, personally, have done a quarter turn on my M2 curtains and the timing was not affected.  My light leak improved a lot, but was not totally fixed. In general street use (not in beach bright sun), I'm fine if I stop down the lens all the way between shots, or use a cap (which I do very rarely).