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    Herr Barnack

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    • By framecontrol
      So I was ripping around in an off-road vehicle in Sedona and taking some beautiful landscape photos with my Q2. All of that off-roading caused the Q2 to get covered in some fine dust and sand and while the camera worked fine, you could feel the dust inside the aperture ring and dial—it was just a little grindy and you could tell it needed to be cleaned, but otherwise it was perfect.
      The camera got shipped off to Leica in New Jersey and 2 weeks later they came back with a repair starting point of $2,600! Apparently, they didn't open up the camera or anything and just do a general look at things and an assumption prior to the true estimate. My shop told me they wrote very basic notes - "Damages by sand - Need to adjust auto focus, replace parts, check, adjust, clean" - it seemed very templated. They did not say what parts needed to be replaced (according to my shop.) They did say shipping was included.
      Just wanted to see if anyone has any suggestions. Maybe the actual repair will cost less? Should I push back on them? Do I have other options outside of Leica?
      Thank you!
    • By baoluo.ma233
      Good evening, I’m a relatively new SL2 user switched from M platform, always struggle with the size of SL’s wide angle solution. Just saw one xpan lens 30mm 5.6, a very nice reputation landscape option. There’s one adapter made by Kipon, exclusive for xpan to L mount, anyone tried before?
    • By boojum
      OK. I am starting from that point where we all start: total ignorance.  I receive my M8.2 today when FedEx delivers the little honey.  I would not normally run an eBay camera by a repair facility to check it but this is special.  And the seller has a 30 return window so I want a skilled tech to 1) look it over and evaluate its condition and, 2) do a CLA if needed.  I will bring it up with the new lens so that the tech can check how well the lens gets along with the rangefinder.
      I have read on this board and in this sub-forum that two esteemed Leica techs will not open an M8/M8.2 because of "grounding issues."  I have asked Wetzlar and finally Leica NJ about this.  They have danced all around this and are as good at equivocation as any politician or time-share salesman.  The best I could get out of them was that taking the camera to a non-Leica facility may void my warranty.  They have not said that any other tech is unable to inspect, evaluate or repair the M8/M8.2.
      So I am going to be a guinea pig on this.  I will take some pics when the camera arrives, of course, just to make sure it works.  Tomorrow I will drive up to PDX and drop it off with a repair facility I have had do work in the past.  They did the job right in the past on a Pentax digital.  I will see what happens.  I will know it worked before I brought it up.  I will have the digital proof.  I will also see what these fellows can do.  And the tech left me a message to the effect that the M9 was pretty much an M8/M8.2 inside but with a bigger sensor.  So we know he has opened up a few of them.
      As they used to say on TV, "Tape at Eleven."
    • By twcxz
      Hi everyone, 
      I'm currently working on a project to once and for all fix the analogue Leica CL's broken take up spool problem, by 3D printing them. 
      I've ran a roll through mine with version 2 of the spool and it works pretty good, but i'm working on version 3 which should be better still - I got the dimensions slightly wrong on this one - it's too short.
      How many of you CL owners would be interested in buying such an item? They'd cost around £20 and be sold through eBay all said and done, and I'd make a video showing how to take apart the CL and install them, as well as reassembly - International shipping would happen too through the eBay GSP as I'm UK based.
      The attached photo is version 2 and not by any means the final version as this is still in very early development, but the quality of the ones that go on sale will be much higher. This one was printed by a friend of mine, but I'm soon going to acquire my own printer and make them much better.
      I know also that this doesn't look anything like the original, but when I copied the original part dimension for dimension, curve by curve, it didn't work and suffered the same problems as the original.. immediately. Thus I simplified it and made it more "3D Printer friendly."
      Thanks
      Tom
       
       
       
       

      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
    • By karthikrr
      Hi,
      Found this lovely forum while searching for info on a Leica R4 body described as having a "small problem". It belongs to a friend who gave me the option of buying it off him cheap, in its existing state, and trying to fix it and re-sell to a collector. I have been reading up on this and trying a few things and had a couple observations and questions that I am hoping the experts in this forum can help me with.
      1) When I received it, I discovered that the shutter was not just firing with a delay, it was stuck and unusable. The film advance lever was stuck as well, indicating that the shutter probably froze midway through its cycle. The mirror was down, but the DOF preview lever was "loose". 
      2) The battery LED would light, but there was no activity in the viewfinder, meaning no leds or anything at all. The camera seemed dead. New batteries did not change anything. 
      3) After a fair bit of research, I found a thread (unsure where) that suggested "smacking" the camera bottom on a bed or similar soft surface. Somewhat frustrated, I did this, and it actually worked. The shutter finished its cycle and the film advance lever was working again, AND the viewfinder leds worked. I checked the meter and it seems fine too.
      4) Advance the lever (no film), press the shutter, and same exact problem. But over many tests, I discovered that in B and 100, both mechanical modes, it would sometimes fire with a big delay, and other times get completely stuck. Smacking always releases the shutter.
      5) Based on many threads in this forum, I believe this problem is typically related to dirty magnetic dampers. However, I find mixed information on how to reach the magnets. There was one thread that suggested it can be reached from the bottom plate and is easy, while another suggested it is behind the dof preview lever and complicated to reach, requiring some degree of disassembly. Unfortunately, I did not find information on WHAT disassembly is required.
      6) In the meantime, I have also found that in all of the electronic modes (manual operation, but shutter speed electronic), the shutter button actually never fully depresses and therefore the shutter never fires at all. It feels like a half-press only in the electronic modes. In the mechanical mode, I can clearly see and feel the shutter go much deeper and actuate something. 
      So my questions:
      1) Is the shutter button behaving normally? Is there something else I am missing, as to why the shutter button won't fully depress in electronic mode, but works in mechanical mode?
      2) If its the dampers, do I go from the bottom or the top? In any case, how do I get the top plate off and get any sort of serious disassembly done on this camera? I see one screw in the back, by the eye-piece control dial, and know that the top most screw on the mount holds the top plate down. But are those the only two screws? What else do I need to remove to get the top plate off? I am guessing the film rewind lever (on the left side, over the ISO dial) needs to come off, and the entire ISO dial mechanism probably needs to be lifted off too. What about on the right side, how do I get under the film advance lever and the shutter control?
      3) Given the fact that the meter seems to work properly, I am guessing the electronics on this sample are okay (its a 156xxxx serial number). But just to be sure, if the electronics are toast, how do I know this? 
      Any help/advice is appreciated, including an opinion on what price its worth buying at and then trying to fix it so I can keep it for myself, OR sell in working condition to a collector. A warning that it might be more valuable sold off to a collector in present condition than executing a botched repair and destroying its value completely is also taken in the right spirit. 
      Thanks,
      Karthik
      PS - I literally went thru every single page of the English forum looking for answers. Now after posting, I see threads related to this in the German forum! Is there a way for me to search on the other language forums? Any pointers appreciated, but please understand that I did a pretty comprehensive search and processed what information I already found before making this thread
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