Minimum shutterspeed for SL with M glass

[Milan_S]

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I noticed that my images when using for example 1/50 shutterspeed with a 50mm Noctilux or even a 50 Summilux result in not the sharpest results. Something which I never encountered with the M series and with Sony A7II (image stabilisation in camera). Now I tend to shoot my SL with a minimum shutter speed of 1/80. Which result in very sharp files...

 

What are your experiences with SL and manual focus M lenses and the shutterspeed? 

Any best practices or tips are welcome! 

[geetee1972]

I default to 1/2f for everything but that would be the same whether I was shooting M lenses or SL lenses. The old reciprocal 1/f rule is, I think, less applicable to the way people shoot digital even with IBIS if you're shooting people.

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[darylgo]

Tripod sharp results require 1/250 for 50mm lenses in my personal shooting. Otherwise, if I shoot 3 images, one will be sharper.

[frame-it]

in daylight i never go below 1/160...usually stay at 1/200 or 1/250..and at night try and keep 1/320 with ISO 1600 MAX

[geetee1972]

I default to 1/2f for everything but that would be the same whether I was shooting M lenses or SL lenses. The old reciprocal 1/f rule is, I think, less applicable to the way people shoot digital even with IBIS if you're shooting people.

 

I should add as a minimum - I only have one lens (50mm) and pretty much default to 1/125th as the minimum.

[mmradman]

For me it is 1/250 sec for any M lens, auto ISO does the rest.  Almost always satisfied with the image sharpness.

 

Some people claim steady hands, desirable trait for a surgeon or dentist [few of those here on LUF], maybe steady handers don't pixel peep or print small size.

[ramarren]

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Hand-holding steadiness depends on a lot of things, most them them having to do with you and your shooting technique. The SL is a very differently shaped camera than the M, technique alone could account for the difference. 

 

Regards shutter speed and ISO: I've found that 1/f works fine most of the time for me, when using AutoISO, but as I've grown older and more prone to getting tired, setting 1/2f is safer. When using fixed ISO settings (most of the time), I find that 1/2f is generally about right too. 

 

Beyond that, I take out a camera support or tripod. 

 

enjoy!

 

"My sharpest lens is a sturdy tripod."

[thighslapper]

Good lord .... you all need to drink more to steady your nerves ...... I suggest a couple of stiff shots in the morning coffee ! 

 

I manage 1/30 with shake free results at 50mm but usually have 1/f set on the camera. I use silly low speeds with w/a lenses.

 

I have just run a series of checks and images at 1/30 are identical to 1/200 so I am not deluding myself.

 

However I have spent many years doing surgery and longbow archery .... which require absolute steadiness/control .... and latterly jewellery making/stone setting/micro laser welding under 5x and 10x magnification...... so it's not surprising I have a steady hand 

Edited January 15, 2018 by thighslapper

[jrp]

Here’s some empirical evidence that you need 1/2f on a 24mpx sensor without ibis. http://blog.kasson.com/the-last-word/rules-of-thumb-for-handheld-shutter-speed/

[thighslapper]

Here’s some empirical evidence that you need 1/2f on a 24mpx sensor without ibis. http://blog.kasson.com/the-last-word/rules-of-thumb-for-handheld-shutter-speed/

Cobblers. 

 

You would need the results from a hundred different photographers to achieve a meaningful results and indicate minimum, maximum and average speed to avoid shake. One mans personal results count for nothing. 

 

The mass, inertia and balance of the lens/camera combo also play a big part, as does technique and experience. 

 

I would suggest each user spend half a hour carrying out some tests to establish their own personal requirements rather than relying on pearls of wisdom from others .......

Edited January 15, 2018 by thighslapper

[ramarren]

Good lord .... you all need to drink more to steady your nerves ...... I suggest a couple of stiff shots in the morning coffee ! 

 

I manage 1/30 with shake free results at 50mm but usually have 1/f set on the camera. I use silly low speeds with w/a lenses.

 

I have just run a series of checks and images at 1/30 are identical to 1/200 so I am not deluding myself.

 

However I have spent many years doing surgery and longbow archery .... which require absolute steadiness/control .... and latterly jewellery making/stone setting/micro laser welding under 5x and 10x magnification...... so it's not surprising I have a steady hand 

 

 

LOL! 

 

I suspect the issue isn't that I can't get a good photograph at 1/15 second (I can), it's what I consider to be "shake free images" on close inspection. 

 

I know for a fact that I get FAR sharper images every time I fit the camera to a tripod than I ever can holding it in my hands, including at 1/2000 second. But sharpness alone doesn't make a great photograph.

[mich]

I noticed that my images when using for example 1/50 shutterspeed with a 50mm Noctilux or even a 50 Summilux result in not the sharpest results. Something which I never encountered with the M series and with Sony A7II (image stabilisation in camera). Now I tend to shoot my SL with a minimum shutter speed of 1/80. Which result in very sharp files...

 

What are your experiences with SL and manual focus M lenses and the shutterspeed? 

Any best practices or tips are welcome! 

If I would take pictures of one of your models, I probably had a shaking camera with 1/1000 ...

[antigallican]

I default to 1/2f for everything but that would be the same whether I was shooting M lenses or SL lenses. The old reciprocal 1/f rule is, I think, less applicable to the way people shoot digital even with IBIS if you're shooting people.

So you use 180th with a 90mm lens? I think I am probably about there too, but didn't yet come up with a formula. I think with the lens gyro in the 24-90 I would probably go down to a 90th but not really less with any confidence. Of course with flash it's a different matter...

[Milan_S]

If I would take pictures of one of your models, I probably had a shaking camera with 1/1000 ...

Haha great one, thank you all for the nice replies!

[Alistairm]

 

I would suggest each user spend half a hour carrying out some tests to establish their own personal requirements rather than relying on pearls of wisdom from others .......

Fantastic advice. It is highly personal. As is the trade off between tac sharpness / high ISO image degradation in low light. Indeed, it may even change from day to day, depending on coffee consumption etc.

 

For me, avoiding subject movement usually limits me more than the ability to handhold.