ISO on M Monochrome

[M10Alpine]

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Hi all, 

 

 

I just got a M Monochrome, I previously had the M 246. I like the M M but I struggle with the ISO settings and nailing the exposure.

 

Any tips and tricks? How do you set ISO? Do you use a external light meter?

 

I predominately use Summilux lenses and I usually shoot them wide open. I find that even in good light the ISO on auto ends up at 320 to 800 or above and that seams very hight to me and I still find the results to be under exposed.  

 

Pointers?

Edited January 6, 2018 by M10Alpine

[Ted Lemon]

Hi all, 

 

 

I just got a M Monochrome, I previously had the M 246. I like the M M but I struggle with the ISO settings and nailing the exposure.

 

Any tips and tricks? How do you set ISO? Do you use a external light meter?

 

I predominately use Summilux lenses and I usually shoot them wide open. I find that even in good light the ISO on auto ends up at 320 to 800 or above and that seams very hight to me and I still find the results to be under exposed.  

 

Pointers?

 

I use an ND filter (x4) on the lens for my M246. That gives me a few stops to play with. Torstens site has lots of info on ND use as he like to use his noctilux wide open.

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[colint544]

If it’s the M Monochrom mk1, I’d recommend setting the exposure compensation to -0.5 of a stop, and leaving it there, if you’re using auto. I just keep mine on manual, and I use the histogram. Any flashing red at all, and you’ll have blown highlights. It’s extremely useful. Ideally you want just a few small bits of blue flashing, but you can have a lot of blue in the histogram and still be OK

 

So don’t worry about underexposure. The M Monochrom mk1 is a champ at underexposure. You can pull details out of areas that look solid black.

 

I find that ISO 1600 is the sweet spot for detail and a little grit/noise. Looks very filmic to my eyes. And, yes, ND filters are useful, bordering on necessary, to get the best from the camera.

Edited January 6, 2018 by colint544

[Ecar]

How did you use to meter with the M246? Or with the M10, which I assume you also own?

The reason I'm asking is that the newer LV-enabled cameras offer various options for measuring light, whereas the MM measures from the "classic" potato-shaped area in the middle of the frame. Therefore, if you are using Auto, you may get different results than those you'd expect from using a different light metering mode. 

[Ecar]

Also, how is the Auto-ISO set up? What is the slowest shutter speed?

[Luke_Miller]

I predominately use Summilux lenses and I usually shoot them wide open. I find that even in good light the ISO on auto ends up at 320 to 800 or above and that seams very hight to me and I still find the results to be under exposed.  

Well 360 is base ISO on the MM.  In good outdoor light I would expect that you would have overexposure @f1.4 as the 1/4000 sec shutter can't operate fast enough to prevent it.  I have to use neutral density filters in order to get the shutter speed at 1/4000 or less even with my Summicrons.  Also, any clipped highlights are not recoverable with the MM so I always use -.7 EV exposure compensation when shooting outdoors in daylight.   I don't understand why you are getting these results.

Edited January 6, 2018 by Luke_Miller

[M10Alpine]

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Thanks - will experiment and revert! 

 

For clarity I'm talking about MM 1

[DwF]

If it’s the M Monochrom mk1, I’d recommend setting the exposure compensation to -0.5 of a stop, and leaving it there, if you’re using auto. I just keep mine on manual, and I use the histogram. Any flashing red at all, and you’ll have blown highlights. It’s extremely useful. Ideally you want just a few small bits of blue flashing, but you can have a lot of blue in the histogram and still be OK

 

So don’t worry about underexposure. The M Monochrom mk1 is a champ at underexposure. You can pull details out of areas that look solid black.

 

I find that ISO 1600 is the sweet spot for detail and a little grit/noise. Looks very filmic to my eyes. And, yes, ND filters are useful, bordering on necessary, to get the best from the camera.

 

I would agree that iso 1600 when you can use it is the sweet spot. I tend also to underexpose for reasons Colin shared here but will try using histogram more now that my camera is back! ...after 6 mos. on a shelf in New Jersey. below is one at iso 1600

 

Edited January 8, 2018 by DwF

[a.noctilux]

Very useful thread for metering Monochrom.

 

I mainly use MM1 in manual and when light is not optimum I tend to under-expose.

 

MM metering is not easy to master.

With some color filters (green or orange), the metering "in camera" is tedius to have the tone I want.

[a.noctilux]

A while ago, to learn how MM metering in Auto mode works, I use some negatives for repro with MM.

Result not bad at all for that purpose.

Only for example, not for "Art" .

 

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...

To compare file not positive converted, from Xpan, FP4 Plus.

Out of Monochrom (in "A- mode) with Focotar 50mm plus BEOON

 

[IkarusJohn]

I assume you’re using AutoISO?

 

I usually use manual, with AutoISO - this means that the camera still takes a reading, and sets the ISO accordingly - you’re still in auto mode ...

 

For AutoISO, I set the limit at 1/2f for safety sake, and I set exposure compensation at -2/3 to reduce over exposure.

 

When metering, I the expose for the highlights, and check the histogram, as Colin does, if I’m concerned. Ikm generally not wrried about what the ISO does, to be honest, as I have a feel for how high it will go. I set shutter for movement, and aperture for depth of field. I do have ND filters, but use them rarely. I do use a yellow and a red filter from time to time.

 

Cheers

John

Edited March 30, 2018 by IkarusJohn