Separate AE lock from AF lock

[SrMi]

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What I'm always impressed by, and sometimes annoyed by, is the number of techniques required to use AF and AE effectively. This is why I use manual focus most of the time, and normally have AE set to centerweighted when doing so. Focus, half-press to lock in the exposure, compose, click ... seems fast and simple rather than deciding which AF and AE mode and which buttons to press all the time.

+1 on steps "focus, half-press to lock exposure, compose, click", however you can do it only with MF on CL. Sorry if I sound like a broken record, just want to clarify that back-button-focus (or using one of the top buttons for AF) would allow those steps even if you are not proficient in quick MF. In the meantime, I will practice MF using magnification and peaking.

[wlaidlaw]

What I'm always impressed by, and sometimes annoyed by, is the number of techniques required to use AF and AE effectively. This is why I use manual focus most of the time, and normally have AE set to centerweighted when doing so. Focus, half-press to lock in the exposure, compose, click ... seems fast and simple rather than deciding which AF and AE mode and which buttons to press all the time.

 

Surely that makes buying an autofocus camera and lenses totally pointless. If I am carrying an AF camera, I want it to autofocus. The rest of the time I will carry one of my traditional Leicas from 1931 onwards and twiddle the focus ring happily. 

 

Wilson

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[ramarren]

Surely that makes buying an autofocus camera and lenses totally pointless. If I am carrying an AF camera, I want it to autofocus. The rest of the time I will carry one of my traditional Leicas from 1931 onwards and twiddle the focus ring happily.

Perhaps pointless for you, Wilson, but I've had excellent results with my SL using manual focus ... either with native lenses or with adapted ones. I don't see any way that it is pointless for me.

 

If I buy a CL, I doubt I'll buy any lenses specifically for it since I already have all the M and SL and R lenses I need.

Edited January 8, 2018 by ramarren

[photogray]

I'm certainly late to this topic, but without having read this thread prior to my adapting to my new CL and even newer 35 TL Summilux, I quickly do the following:

I generally shoot in Aperture mode to take advantage of the 1.4 capability of the lens. With such shallow depth of field I rely on spot metering to half press and lock on my point of focus. If I don't like the exposure parameters my thumb is resting about 2mm from the left wheel and I do a quick exposure compensation click or two to get the exposure where I want. Am I missing something? It seems like the perfect solution to separating exposure lock from focus lock.

 

I shot transparency film professionally for 30 years, and yes, 1/3 of a stop was often too broad a range of change, especially with Kodachrome which had the least latitude and 'pushability'. No such problem digitally.

[jaapv]

Perhaps pointless for you, Wilson, but I've had excellent results with my SL using manual focus ... either with native lenses or with adapted ones. I don't see any way that it is pointless for me.

 

If I buy a CL, I doubt I'll buy any lenses specifically for it since I already have all the M and SL and R lenses I need.

In a way I a agree with this post. Both ths SL and CL are a joy to use with M and R lenses. However, the 18-56 zoom makes the CL a fast, compact  and reliable reportage camera.

[wlaidlaw]

I'm certainly late to this topic, but without having read this thread prior to my adapting to my new CL and even newer 35 TL Summilux, I quickly do the following:

I generally shoot in Aperture mode to take advantage of the 1.4 capability of the lens. With such shallow depth of field I rely on spot metering to half press and lock on my point of focus. If I don't like the exposure parameters my thumb is resting about 2mm from the left wheel and I do a quick exposure compensation click or two to get the exposure where I want. Am I missing something? It seems like the perfect solution to separating exposure lock from focus lock.

 

I shot transparency film professionally for 30 years, and yes, 1/3 of a stop was often too broad a range of change, especially with Kodachrome which had the least latitude and 'pushability'. No such problem digitally.

 

I am afraid I disagree. I am currently doing the same as you but I would much prefer to be able to pick up a zone exposure from a darker part (or lighter part), press a lock button and recompose. I think this is quicker than twiddling the left hand roller to adjust the EV. On my SL I have the AE lock as a quick press of the mid front face button, extended with a Bumpon on it. I reckon I can pick up the zone exposure I want, lock and recompose in less than a second. I think it takes me 2 to 3 seconds to adjust the EV to the level that looks right with a roller. I suppose to some extent this is from years of using cameras with spot or centre weighted TTL exposure, where this is far quicker than for example dialling in EV correction on the back door of my M7. 

 

Wilson

Edited June 1, 2018 by wlaidlaw

[Smogg]

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AF Lock - must have function for street shooters. On SL I'm using joystick in MF mode to quick prefocus on certain area/distance and waiting for peoples.  On CL I should keep waiting with half-pressed button - very inconvenient.

[wlaidlaw]

AF Lock - must have function for street shooters. On SL I'm using joystick in MF mode to quick prefocus on certain area/distance and waiting for peoples.  On CL I should keep waiting with half-pressed button - very inconvenient.

 

It is surprising that having come up with such a universally praised and infinitely flexible user interface on the SL, that Leica did not carry over more of its features to the CL. I understand the desire to minimise and simplify the control buttons but my personal feeling is that they went one or two buttons too far. Two extra programmable buttons would add a lot of extra flexibility of working. Nobody would be obliged to use them if they did not want to. For example a quick press on the left centre button could be an assignable function (to AE lock would be my choice) with a long press now  being the mode change (A, P, M, V) activator for the roller. In over six months of using a CL I have never felt the need to use the current long press on the left hand roller central button of "lock function" but it could be an assignable function to a short press of that same button for those that want to use it. It would not have been difficult to increase the back buttons from three to four or add a front face button like the SL has. Maybe on the new rumoured CM. The problem is that if that is full frame, it is going to need the big and heavy SL lenses. On trips over the last few months with the CL, I have not missed carrying around my SL lenses, one little bit. 

 

Designers are obsessed with using touch screens for everything and minimising buttons. My new car has touch screens and touch panels for nearly every function. I hate it. Buttons were much easier and you did not have to take your eyes off the road to do something simple like a selecting a different station on the radio, as you soon learnt where the buttons and knobs were with muscle memory. 

 

Wilson

Edited June 1, 2018 by wlaidlaw

[Louis]

I would  be really very happy if instead of keeping my finger half way on the release button to compose, I could block the focus where I choose and leave the release button.  Then, when I turn my camera off/on, the focus center would automatically go to the center.

 

That would make it much easier and faster for my type of shooting.

 

Does Leica AG has ears?...

[Zergwof]

In customize control you can set the fn button to AE lock. 

Problem solved 🙂

[danielfrimley]

Hello all, hope you’re well? I dunno, don’t see someone for ages and when you do they just want help 😉

I would be grateful if someone with CL and a TL AF lens could test something for me?

Setting AF-L alone on the right button and AE-L alone on the FN button doesn’t work as one might expect. AF-L seems OK, but AE-L doesn’t trigger (whether selected alone or together)? Is there supposed to be a visual indicator in the viewfinder when AE-L is active?

Thanks

 

Edit: this is further to @Zergwofhere. Sorry, I should of checked before starting a new thread, @jaapv feel free to merge if appropriate.

Edited November 1, 2022 by danielfrimley
Didn’t search first, my bad

[jaapv]

Done

[davidrc]

Oct. 2023……perhaps there have been updates in this time?

I am assured by by dealer (picking up a CL tomorrow) that a back button set up can be applied to the FN button.

i’ve since read all these quotes from inception, 2017.  I was a bit perturbed at first.  But if the BBF has been implemented, then great.  It will be a bonus.  The CL is so sweet with manual focus, 23mm lens, that that is the way I will use the camera.

Coming from a BBF user background, used for landscape taking, with a Fuji which doesn’t give confidence that accurate focus has been achieved or great viewing with some lenses.  Then the CL should improve this.

I think what is being overlooked is my method and subject…..BBF is great, to not, have to manual focus and importantly not have the camera constantly refocus for multiple takes.  It is a battery drain.

BBF is faster, and keeps things constant once focus is acquired.  Particularly with a CL with few buttons to have different actions.

But, I won’t be working fast with it….so forward in hope, either way!