The Print

[MikeN]

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For those who enjoy film AND printing

 

 

 

 

Photo: Nikon F3 & TriX

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[MikeN]

Mike,

 

What a great video. Your process and many tools are identical to mine. I just acquired an RH Designs Analyser-Pro, which I am learning and enjoying. A main envy is your ability to black out your windows so easily.

 

BTW – did you do a custom calibration of the Zone Master for your paper? I am just about to switch from Ilford Multigrade IV FB to the new “Classic”, and I suspect that a calibration for the new paper might be good or necessary. Any thoughts?

 

BTW the picture of the child is really nice.

 

Cheers,

Hi Michael, yes I calibrated the Zonemaster to the paper I use. The process takes a bit time (maybe half a day for one type of paper) and the documentation could be much better but it really pays off with very exact results . Depending on how precise you want to get a densitometer would be a good tool to support the calibration.

 

Cheers

[Martin B]

Ok, first very impressive and well made video - loved how you converted a regular room into a darkroom without any light leak ! Impressed by your enlarger setup with electronic exposure control- never seen this before. This facilitates a lot of try&error which I had to do in the past to get the exposure right according to the negative and size of the print. Good to know that you also used the press for an "ironing" of the pre-dried print. Still a few questions:

 

For dry-matting, I suffered that some of the wax of the dry matt paper started sticking on the iron used to pre-glue the print to the board. How do you get rid of this wax layer? I tried ethanol, but it only worked to some degree. Scratching the wax residue off the iron is a bad idea I found since it will scratch the teflon surface on the iron. 

 

In the last finishing step, you used some nice spot pens for retouching - I had a hard time finding those. Any recommendation where to get them from? I found them on the B&H website, but they are no longer listed as available. 

 

Superb photo in the end, all looking great

 

I drop you a PM, I am coming over soon.....

Edited December 8, 2017 by Martin B

[jpattison]

For dry-matting, I suffered that some of the wax of the dry matt paper started sticking on the iron used to pre-glue the print to the board. How do you get rid of this wax layer? I tried ethanol, but it only worked to some degree. Scratching the wax residue off the iron is a bad idea I found since it will scratch the teflon surface on the iron. 

 

 

 I always use a small strip of release paper between the iron and the adhesive paper.

 

John

[Jeff S]

Indeed, use release paper. But for residue, there are solvents like this....

 

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/47233-REG/Seal_Bienfang_SE_470_Unseal_32_Fluid_Oz.html

 

Jeff

[MikeN]

For dry-matting, I suffered that some of the wax of the dry matt paper started sticking on the iron used to pre-glue the print to the board. How do you get rid of this wax layer? I tried ethanol, but it only worked to some degree. Scratching the wax residue off the iron is a bad idea I found since it will scratch the teflon surface on the iron.

 

Hi Martin,

 

I agree with John and Jeff: Release paper might be a good option. I also use it in the press to prevent glue sticking anywhere around the pic (won't probably happen but just in case); I use this paper in minute: 9:25. In DE it's known as "Silikonpapier". However to pre-glue I don't use anything and my iron remains clean

 

 

In the last finishing step, you used some nice spot pens for retouching - I had a hard time finding those. Any recommendation where to get them from? I found them on the B&H website, but they are no longer listed as available.

I'm afraid but I think the SpotPens are discontinued . I bought mine some years ago

 

Ps.: Looking forward to meet you

[topoxforddoc]

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Loved it. Hopefully it will inspire many others into film photography