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leica dream

My film journey starts here!

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Good start.

 

My end goal for my photos is darkroom prints but I also scan my negatives for the web using an Epson scanner and do a bit of PP in Lightroom. I shoot all of my photos on Tri-X 400.

 

If you have any interest in seeing the results I have a sampling of photos posted on my photo site at

 

http://projektnine11.com

 

As Steve said Andrew, these are really good. One thing, I find the photos on each page a bit too small, at least until you click on one. But really good pictures.

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On my MAC I have difficulty attaching images in the forum. When I try to choose files I am presented with only Applications and Documents but no access to all my files or even pictures. Has anyone got around this - otherwise I must transfer images to an old Windows PC to be able to attach.

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Back in the 1960s my favorite B&W for quality was PanatomicX, with TriX for available light. These days I use Ilford films, with Pan-F+ as my favorite for its grain and tonality. I use HP5+ a lot for available light now, but Delta 400 may take over.

For color I now like Ektar a lot, or Portra 400 for people.

I now use Rodinal for a B&W developer, which keeps well for occasional use.

I look forward to the new Kodak Ektachrome, but still miss Kodachrome 25.

I love slide film, I’m now off the idea of Ektachrome. With no ability to print directly from slide film following the demise of Cibachrome, Ektachrome will need to be scanned for digital processing and subsequent printing. So one might as well stick with colour reversal film. Maybe we can go back to slide nights - my projector still works.

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So does my projector, Mark - an Aldis 505, and I swear one could boil a kettle on it after about 30 minutes. Hence the need for the glass in transparencies. One of those valve-like bulbs which I suppose are not available anymore. The Ektachrome transparencies are still as sharp as they were shot in the late 1950/60/70. I keep promising to digitize to bring them into to-days world.

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Intersesting, as my old Ektachromes from the 70s and 80s are already showing some colour shift from their base bluish look. This is unlike those glorious Kodachromes which look the same as the day I shot them.

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I recently scanned 1400 slides from the 60s and 70s for my father-in-law. All Ektachrome was faded to pink, store brand slides had faded to yellow, Kodachrome looked like the day they were first shot.

 

I want my Kodachrome back.

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As Steve said Andrew, these are really good. One thing, I find the photos on each page a bit too small, at least until you click on one. But really good pictures.

 

Thanks for the kind words.  I'll have to tweak the Wordpress theme I'm using to increase the size of the preview photos.

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I have found that scanned negatives show a feint pinkish tinge through pure whites on the print which I assume is the base acetate colour of the film. Is there a solution?

Richard

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On my MAC I have difficulty attaching images in the forum. When I try to choose files I am presented with only Applications and Documents but no access to all my files or even pictures. Has anyone got around this - otherwise I must transfer images to an old Windows PC to be able to attach.

I can navigate to any folder without issue on my Mac’s...

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That is interesting. Usually I can get anywhere, but it is just when using the "browse" button on the forum to include an image I am offered only documents or applications.

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I can navigate to any folder without issue on my Mac’s...

Ditto on my iMac (High Sierra 10.13.1).

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I have found that scanned negatives show a feint pinkish tinge through pure whites on the print which I assume is the base acetate colour of the film. Is there a solution?

Richard

 

This issue is very film-dependent. TMax films are the worst - very hard to get rid of the magenta cast. Ilford B&W films are best - they almost get colorless with the dye negative background after washing. The magenta dye can be washed off by keeping the film longer in a fairly fresh fixer and also longer in a following Hyper Wash bath. I find some remaining magenta cast not to be an issue for scanning since the final image will be converted to grey scale anyway. 

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I have found that scanned negatives show a feint pinkish tinge through pure whites on the print which I assume is the base acetate colour of the film. Is there a solution?

Richard

 

I assume it is known as something like pink devil Kodak BW film. One of the reasons why I ditched it. Too much of the pink. 

Still it is BW film, it means it is for BW prints. Some of us do it still naturally, in the darkroom. But if you scan, you need to convert it to BW for prints. In LR and/or in the printer mode.

Setting printer to BW works best, IMO.

Edited by Ko.Fe.

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This film was Ilford FP4.so from all the comments I guess I need to be more vigilent during my PS adjustments.

As for attachments into the forum I shall not waste time but move images to my old PC then upload.

Richard

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This film was Ilford FP4.so from all the comments I guess I need to be more vigilent during my PS adjustments.

As for attachments into the forum I shall not waste time but move images to my old PC then upload.

Richard

 

I am mainly using FP4+ also, and it is one of the films where I have no trouble getting most of the magenta dye washed out. 

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When scanning my negatives into computer I have used JPEG format.........should I be using TIFF, and if so why?

 

I recommend using TIFF - it takes more space but it is closest what you would get from a RAW file. With TIFF, you can later always modify or crop. JPG is more limited in this regard, for example if you like to print large at some point or need to crop. I scan negatives in TIFF to get about 36-40 MB files size for each frame and convert them (after applied PP) into compressed JPGs for web publishing. 

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