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Leica Q a $5K camera and auto focus sucks


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Most of my out of focus photos were of the discrete kind in Iran, mostly, where I had pointed the camera, low on my body, towards subjects passing by, and everything would be in focus, except the subject(s) .....

On one occasion I was at Mamayev Kurgan, had a red flower as an offering, and was trying to focus the flower with the monument in the background. It would not focus at all into the flower. I changed AF settings at that spot from facial to multi point to single point, and nothing would make the camera focus on that flower right in front of it!

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Lucena, and the rest, thank you much for all the kind responses and tips. I am sure the problem is operator's error and that Macro Ring, as you mentioned. Yes, it has been of a lot of help, all the input.

Thank you all.

 

jetdude

Glad that I have been of any help but sorry for your missed photos, hope you will have other oportunities...

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Most of my out of focus photos were of the discrete kind in Iran, mostly, where I had pointed the camera, low on my body, towards subjects passing by, and everything would be in focus, except the subject(s) .....

On one occasion I was at Mamayev Kurgan, had a red flower as an offering, and was trying to focus the flower with the monument in the background. It would not focus at all into the flower. I changed AF settings at that spot from facial to multi point to single point, and nothing would make the camera focus on that flower right in front of it!

Spot focusing is challenging and has to be 'spot-on'. It cannot be rushed. I practise a lot, especially after a lapse in my photography.

 

Also explore multi-point focus shifted. Or indeed, shift applied to any focus mode. That can be helpful in some situations. But remember to zero the shift when no longer needed.

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Most of my out of focus photos were of the discrete kind in Iran, mostly, where I had pointed the camera, low on my body, towards subjects passing by, and everything would be in focus, except the subject(s) .....

On one occasion I was at Mamayev Kurgan, had a red flower as an offering, and was trying to focus the flower with the monument in the background. It would not focus at all into the flower. I changed AF settings at that spot from facial to multi point to single point, and nothing would make the camera focus on that flower right in front of it!

Hmmm... that is not surprising. After all, the camera has no way to know what you wish to focus on.

The key phrase is "make the camera focus" The essence is the photographer choosing his plane of focus. So if you want to focus on something specific you have to place a focus point on the thing you want to focus on. An autofocus system cannot replace your mind.

 

For waist-level discrete photography switch off auto-focus, set the lens to 3 meters and the aperture to f 8. Choose an appropriate shutter time, say 1/125 and set the camera to auto-ISO. Adapt the shutter speed if the light conditions make it necessary.

For the flower, place your single focus point on the flower, lock focus by half-press and recompose.

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Spot focusing is challenging and has to be 'spot-on'. It cannot be rushed. I practise a lot, especially after a lapse in my photography.

 

Also explore multi-point focus shifted. Or indeed, shift applied to any focus mode. That can be helpful in some situations. But remember to zero the shift when no longer needed.

 

 

Hmmm... that is not surprising. After all, the camera has no way to know what you wish to focus on.

The key phrase is "make the camera focus" The essence is the photographer choosing his plane of focus. So if you want to focus on something specific you have to place a focus point on the thing you want to focus on. An autofocus system cannot replace your mind.

 

For waist-level discrete photography switch off auto-focus, set the lens to 3 meters and the aperture to f 8. Choose an appropriate shutter time, say 1/125 and set the camera to auto-ISO. Adapt the shutter speed if the light conditions make it necessary.

For the flower, place your single focus point on the flower, lock focus by half-press and recompose.

Agreed with Jaapv on waist-level dscrete photog. I'm curious to know what you are comparing this camera to?  In my opinion, this is not a camera where you click and move on.  This camera makes you think about your frames.  I had the same initial welcome when I got my Q. I thought it was slow and missing alot.  I was comparing it to a sony a7rii-in which you turn on phase/contract detection and shoot the heck out and will achieve focus.  But I realized that the sony just made me a bad photographer.  So when I slept with the Q and really understood the equipment, i ended up finding out that this is the fastest and most accurate camera I have. My suggestion and to get to know it well..and for a good while.

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  • 1 month later...

I am returning my 29 day old leica Q for the same reason. I like the camera but over half of my images out of 700 images from from numberous outings are no good due to poor focus. I have tried every focus mode, different apertures, the Macro ring is not selected. I have figured out a few like when the AF ring slips off the setting or when you have touch focus on the wrong part of the frame which were my mistake but over half when done correctly or at least I think correctly are no good. 

 

It very well be something I am doing wrong or an issue with the camera but I cannot afford to have a camera I cannot trust to get tack sharp images. Of one that I have to triple check everytihng every time I take a picture one of the things that sold me on the Q was simplicity you pick it up it turns on quick and AF is supposed to be so great. I have not experienced that.

 

Very disappointed too because I really wanted to like this camera and there are several things I do like about it very much but out of focus images doesn't work for me.

 

With the ten Sony bodies and cameras I have had and now my a7rIII and a9 this is siimply not an issue and never has been. I guess I will see if they make the RX1R III larger and fix a bunch of things or get a A6700 first quarter I am not wild about a APS-C sensor but I guess they are making it a higher resolution and other nicities it has a flash which can come in handy and is actually a half an inch narrower and 1/3" less in height and I can use my ten G Master and Zeiss lenses plus get the crop factor 1x5. 

 

I could pick up my a6500 and never had an issue with AF. If even ten percent of the photos were not tack sharp I would not keep it but in my case it is more like 60-70%

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I am going to exchange it it almost has to be a decentered lens or defective camera. The Q has received too much praise with a capital P for its quick and accurate AF for me to be having these issues. Another thing I am noticing is the ISO in automatic seems higher than it should be for a given scenes as well as lower shutter speeds. An out door photo overcast but still outdoord mid day F2.8 ISO 800 1/50th of a second? 

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New Q as of yesterday. AF seems the least of its problems.  I cant say how useful the alternate focus modes are, but frankly I wouldn't trust them too much.  Half the point of an EVF-based camera is that the viewfinder provides a WYSIWYG experience.  Jaapv has already described the best way to achieve results in scenarios where you are shooting blind. For the best results and hit rates when using the AF,  its important to understand how contrast detect AF systems go about there business.  CD systems only work where there is an edge to detect. 

 

If you point your camera at a target like a flat white wall, you'll notice the AF hunts for a second and doesn't typically land in focus.  It simply cant as there, much as when you focus manually, it has no reference it can see that becomes sharp. The processing power and algorithms have gotten much more sophisticated in the last couple of years, but the proper technique remains the same. Find the edge or high contrast area you want to focus on, reposition the AF square using the D-pad so that the target area is within it and take the shot -or- leave the AF point in the center, point the camera so that the target is in the square, half press the shutter to lock the AF,  recompose and take the shot.  If thats what you're doing and its still not mailing focus, the camera has a problem. 

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New Q as of yesterday. AF seems the least of its problems.  I cant say how useful the alternate focus modes are, but frankly I wouldn't trust them too much.  Half the point of an EVF-based camera is that the viewfinder provides a WYSIWYG experience.  Jaapv has already described the best way to achieve results in scenarios where you are shooting blind. For the best results and hit rates when using the AF,  its important to understand how contrast detect AF systems go about there business.  CD systems only work where there is an edge to detect. 

 

If you point your camera at a target like a flat white wall, you'll notice the AF hunts for a second and doesn't typically land in focus.  It simply cant as there, much as when you focus manually, it has no reference it can see that becomes sharp. The processing power and algorithms have gotten much more sophisticated in the last couple of years, but the proper technique remains the same. Find the edge or high contrast area you want to focus on, reposition the AF square using the D-pad so that the target area is within it and take the shot -or- leave the AF point in the center, point the camera so that the target is in the square, half press the shutter to lock the AF,  recompose and take the shot.  If thats what you're doing and its still not mailing focus, the camera has a problem. 

 

One thing I failed to mention in the above is that the size of the AF area can also be important as the larger it is the more potential targets can be detected and the wrong one picked. As I'm new to the camera I had yet to figure out how you alter the size of the AF target area, but in screwing around (what read the manual?) I've just discovered that you can reduce or enlarge it by holding the delete key and using the the thumb wheel. For those having issues with nailing focus when shooting wide open, I'd suggest you consider altering the AF area to the smallest setting in those circumstances. 

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One thing I failed to mention in the above is that the size of the AF area can also be important as the larger it is the more potential targets can be detected and the wrong one picked. As I'm new to the camera I had yet to figure out how you alter the size of the AF target area, but in screwing around (what read the manual?) I've just discovered that you can reduce or enlarge it by holding the delete key and using the the thumb wheel. For those having issues with nailing focus when shooting wide open, I'd suggest you consider altering the AF area to the smallest setting in those circumstances.

 

If I remember rightly you wont find this in the manual as it came with a firmware update but you discovered the correct way! It is my preferred setting as I am basically in the focus and recompose school, although sometimes repositioning the focus point from the centre is useful too. Edited by HighlandK
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