Justin-A Posted October 8, 2017 Share #1 Posted October 8, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi guys, Most times I'll take out my M2 to shoot at daylight or when dark I'll be shooting with flash. However, next week I'll be shooting a more commercial shoot in a parking garage (mostly without flash), which means low and false lightning! I'll, of course, use some studio lightning to get some light on my object (model with dalmatian dog). Also, there's a spot where there's a grill at the ceiling where daylight will shine through. But I'm not sure if it's going to be enough. As I don't have quite as much experience with my Leica in low light, I would like to ask for some setting recommendations to get it right, also I don't like to push film because of the heavy grain. Maybe some of you are willing to share some tips on settings, what should I watch out for? I'm afraid that with a low shutter speed the images will end up shakey. Im going to shoot both B/W and Color, Tmax and Portra. Thank you! Justin Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 8, 2017 Posted October 8, 2017 Hi Justin-A, Take a look here Shooting M2 in Low light circumstances. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Michael Geschlecht Posted October 8, 2017 Share #2 Posted October 8, 2017 Hello Justin, Welcome to the Forum. What kind of light meter/flash meter are you using?Tripod? Best Regards, Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted October 8, 2017 Share #3 Posted October 8, 2017 (edited) A total nubee dips into the forum with an 'assignment' for us to solve. Recommendation between the brackets: []. Nuff said. Edited October 8, 2017 by pico 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin-A Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share #4 Posted October 8, 2017 A total nubee dips into the forum with an 'assignment' for us to solve. Recommendation between the brackets: []. Nuff said. I'm only asking on shooting in low-light circumstances. If you're not the one to help by giving some pointers, please just hush. Maybe you're a total 'nubee' on the definition of "Forum". Hope it's time well wasted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin-A Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share #5 Posted October 8, 2017 Hello Justin, Welcome to the Forum. What kind of light meter/flash meter are you using? Tripod? Best Regards, Michael Thank you for you're message Michael, I don't use a light meter, most times I'll meter with my eyes, which is OK on a sunny, cloudy or any daylight day. But when it comes to false or bad lightning, like in this case, I think I might need a tripod indeed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted October 8, 2017 Share #6 Posted October 8, 2017 Shoot at least a test roll in similar circumstances before the real shoot. Low light film, unless of static subjects with a tripod means grain and slow shutter speeds. I shot a lot in the 1960s in college, usually TriX developed in Acufine at EI 1200. Even so it often meant speeds to 1/15th. With practice and technique 1/15th can be reliable if your subject is still. However, these days for what you describe I'd go digital, probably my A7 since I haven't swung an M10 yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted October 8, 2017 Share #7 Posted October 8, 2017 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) I'm only asking on shooting in low-light circumstances. If you're not the one to help by giving some pointers, please just hush. Maybe you're a total 'nubee' on the definition of "Forum". Hope it's time well wasted. I do not think I am a nubee. Search and be happy. If you cannot understand lighting as is obvious by your query, then it is also unlikely that you would would understand our recommendations - you do not even understand the terms. You will receive plenty of blind recommendations. Such is the 'net. Show us your results. Edited October 8, 2017 by pico Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelwj Posted October 9, 2017 Share #8 Posted October 9, 2017 Thank you for you're message Michael, I don't use a light meter, most times I'll meter with my eyes, which is OK on a sunny, cloudy or any daylight day. But when it comes to false or bad lightning, like in this case, I think I might need a tripod indeed. Use a light meter. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rus Posted October 9, 2017 Share #9 Posted October 9, 2017 The among of available light varies greatly even from garage to garage, so it would be very difficult for one to give you any specific setting that will guarantee to work. But... It is indeed a good idea to bring a tripod. And if you don't want to bring a light meter, then perhaps bring along a digital camera and test it out before switching to film? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted October 9, 2017 Share #10 Posted October 9, 2017 (edited) Thank you for you're message Michael, I don't use a light meter, most times I'll meter with my eyes If you can do without a meter, very good, but why ask us for advice? Show us wrong. Post your results. Edited October 9, 2017 by pico Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelwj Posted October 9, 2017 Share #11 Posted October 9, 2017 Thank you for you're message Michael, I don't use a light meter, most times I'll meter with my eyes, which is OK on a sunny, cloudy or any daylight day. But when it comes to false or bad lightning, like in this case, I think I might need a tripod indeed. I'm curious how a tripod will help with 'false or bad lighting'? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko.Fe. Posted October 9, 2017 Share #12 Posted October 9, 2017 (edited) Buy 50 1.1 Mic lens for color films. It is not expensive. This is the only option without pushing which available since HCB. Low light, no flash - fast lens. Get used to pushed bw film. Here is nothing wrong with the grain. HP5+ @3200, gelatin silver print: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Tripod has nothing to do with light meter. You must have light meter. IPhone has free and accurate light meter. For any light. It is amazing what commercial work is still done with film, BTW. Edited October 9, 2017 by Ko.Fe. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Tripod has nothing to do with light meter. You must have light meter. IPhone has free and accurate light meter. For any light. It is amazing what commercial work is still done with film, BTW. ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/277660-shooting-m2-in-low-light-circumstances/?do=findComment&comment=3372863'>More sharing options...
Justin-A Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share #13 Posted October 9, 2017 I'm curious how a tripod will help with 'false or bad lighting'? It won't help with false or bad lightning, however, it will help me shooting at lower shutter speeds to prevent a shaky picture. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MSB Posted October 9, 2017 Share #14 Posted October 9, 2017 (edited) A tripod and cable release would minimize the risk for camera shake during exposure and a fast lens used wide open will allow you to use faster shutter speeds, at the loss of some depth of field. But they won’t help you to figure out the exposure. With some practice ”Sunny 16” works reasonable well outside during daytime but when shooting commercial in a dim light area I would say a good light meter is not a must but a very good and recommended tool. However If you don’t have or want to use a light meter I would recommend you the website ”Ultimate exposure computer” http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm which have some good tips and examples of EV values for various lighting situations. I would also recommend to use bracketing for important shoots. Edited October 9, 2017 by MSB 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkP Posted October 9, 2017 Share #15 Posted October 9, 2017 (edited) I'm only asking on shooting in low-light circumstances. If you're not the one to help by giving some pointers, please just hush. Maybe you're a total 'nubee' on the definition of "Forum". Hope it's time well wasted. Excuse Pico. He's often like that when he hasn't been fed (raw meat)... Not knowing anything more about this, if slower exposures are not an issue for the subject matter, I would agree with MSB: 1. tripod 2. cable release 3. light meter 4. generous bracketing 5. Film obviously has much more latitude than digital with respect to highlights so initially expose for the shadows. Regards, Mark Edited October 9, 2017 by MarkP Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelwj Posted October 9, 2017 Share #16 Posted October 9, 2017 It won't help with false or bad lightning, however, it will help me shooting at lower shutter speeds to prevent a shaky picture. How will you know what shutter speed to use? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelwj Posted October 9, 2017 Share #17 Posted October 9, 2017 (edited) Sorry if it comes across like we don't care, but I'm not sure what you're after? Don't you set up the studio lights and the model, take a light reading, and then go? The whole process relies on light and you don't want to take a reading of the light? Everyone's advice has been to use a light meter. After that it is your artistic vision. It's up to you if you want to use a tripod or not, where to place the lights, to mix the sunlight and studio lights or not and so on. My advice is again the same as everyone else's, use a light meter. After that you will know what to do. Edited October 9, 2017 by michaelwj 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom R Posted October 9, 2017 Share #18 Posted October 9, 2017 (edited) Hi guys, Most times I'll take out my M2 to shoot at daylight or when dark I'll be shooting with flash. However, next week I'll be shooting a more commercial shoot in a parking garage (mostly without flash), which means low and false lightning! I'll, of course, use some studio lightning to get some light on my object (model with dalmatian dog). Also, there's a spot where there's a grill at the ceiling where daylight will shine through. But I'm not sure if it's going to be enough. As I don't have quite as much experience with my Leica in low light, I would like to ask for some setting recommendations to get it right, also I don't like to push film because of the heavy grain. Maybe some of you are willing to share some tips on settings, what should I watch out for? I'm afraid that with a low shutter speed the images will end up shakey. Im going to shoot both B/W and Color, Tmax and Portra. Thank you! Justin I think you need to ask yourself some hard questions here. A "commercial shoot"? Why a 35mm camera, unless you have a particular vision (which you should). What kind of lighting, how much power, ... Norman units, Quantum, etc.? Most importantly: what do you visualize here? Are you using a 35mm camera to create an "effect," such as something that a 60's American art photographer might have done? In that case, you're talking a hand-held strobe and lots of environmental artifacts. That's fine, but I don't know that I'd call that "commercial ..."? If you are using any kind of lighting, then you most certainly need to (1) meter (or have lots of experience with a particular film/processing combination), and (2) to account for relative distances if you have any hope of actually capturing the images you have visualized. Honestly, if someone paid me to create a commercially acceptable image, then I'd probably rent the necessary gear--likely something that I could tether to my PostProduction software--and make damn sure that I understood my lighting formulas and had an idea of the clients' needs and requirements. That would mean, by the way, some dry-runs (easier done with digital equipment). But, if you insist on using an M2 and sticking with a chemical process (all of which I did for thirty years in a great variety of settings), then you should at least try some set-ups and with the TMax which you can presumably process yourself ... just as a reality check, no? And, of course, none of the foregoing includes the other essentials, such as preparing/obtaining release forms, checking the availability of the location, insurance ... weather forecast for that day .... etc. Edited October 9, 2017 by Tom R 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted October 10, 2017 Share #19 Posted October 10, 2017 It won't help with false or bad lightning, however, it will help me shooting at lower shutter speeds to prevent a shaky picture. OK, so the camera won't shake if you use a tripod, how you are going to get the dog to stand perfectly still? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted October 10, 2017 Share #20 Posted October 10, 2017 (edited) Buy 50 1.1 Mic lens for color films. It is not expensive. This is the only option without pushing which available since HCB. Low light, no flash - fast lens. HCB could shoot in low light, but the contact sheets so often show only one shot that worked on the entire roll of film. I'm sure that is not what the OP expects from his assignment (student?) but the simple truth is that in difficult circumstances you need to overshoot by a massive amount. As an ex theatre photographer working with stage lighting that was often very low ten rolls would on average yield ten prints, and when a significant scene was being played shooting was as rapid as possible to catch the moment. You have to allow for lots of bad luck, but as the maxim goes 'the more I practice the luckier I get'. The OP doesn't have any practice time, he meters with his eye's, and he's going to give directions to a Dalmatian. OP, get some CineStill 800 for your colour stock, and plan to push Tri-X to 1600. Beg somebody for the loan of a meter that can read low light accurately (such as a Gossen Luna Pro), and shoot masses of pictures at all sorts of speeds in the hope you get lucky. Edited October 10, 2017 by 250swb Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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