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M10 wear


dennersten

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Hey Jono

I'm using the same strap too on my M10, Black Classic on silver chrome

Loving it!

Utmost simplicity, excellent craftsmanship, soft, supple yet tough

Evris is a complete gentleman to deal with!

 

HI There Bill

Really good aren't they - and as you say, Evris is a gent.

I hope Chicago went well - I was really sorry not to be able to come.

best

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  • 2 months later...

Black chrome always has a silvery nickel layer between the brass and the black.

 

As can be seen on this well used M4:

 

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Black chrome always has a silvery nickel layer between the brass and the black.

Somehow my black M7s wore straight through the nickel to the brass.

Guess they are black enamel, right? (Does not look like the enamel on M4).

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  • 2 years later...
On 1/2/2018 at 3:58 AM, a.noctilux said:

 

Nothing special, no scratch ...

 

That was rubbed off with a rubber : see post #22 .


Well, sorry for reviving and old threat but I thought this could be used as a direct follow up...

I had a similar scratch (although much tinier than the threat starter) and remembered this, so I used a soft white eraser to rub it away and viola, the scratch really became much less visible. 
After going outside in the sun, to my shock, I realized I seemed to have polished the surface and the black chrome now looks really dirty/unevenly polished ...

I would have never thought a soft eraser could do this... and I can’t seem to be able to clean it / rub it away. Fingers, alcohol wipe (getting rare because of corona) wet tissue...

Any idea how I can clean the black chrome surface or an M10-P to get rid of this unwanted polish shine cause by an eraser?

 

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2 hours ago, Marckyokay said:


Well, sorry for reviving and old threat but I thought this could be used as a direct follow up...

I had a similar scratch (although much tinier than the threat starter) and remembered this, so I used a soft white eraser to rub it away and viola, the scratch really became much less visible. 
After going outside in the sun, to my shock, I realized I seemed to have polished the surface and the black chrome now looks really dirty/unevenly polished ...

I would have never thought a soft eraser could do this... and I can’t seem to be able to clean it / rub it away. Fingers, alcohol wipe (getting rare because of corona) wet tissue...

Any idea how I can clean the black chrome surface or an M10-P to get rid of this unwanted polish shine cause by an eraser?

 

Black chrome is quite durable, but unfortunately it quite easily gets polished in places subject to wear. I experienced this with my M6TTL back in the days (caused by velcro inside camera bag) and to a lesser degree with the M10. I haven't heard/read about any way to get it more "matte" again. Maybe if you gently rub the whole surface to get it polished in the same way it will not be as visible as otherwise. But I have NOT tried this.

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Thanks for the tips.

It’s what I already did, use the rubber on a more broad surface to try to even out whatever I did there in the first place, but it made things worse. Uneven spotty look, I would have never thought a soft eraser could even do that, so I’m still hoping there is a way to clean it...

Very hard to get on a photo.

 

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  • 1 month later...
5 hours ago, onelensman said:

Autosol Black Cleaner from automotive suppliers has worked very effectively for me on black chrome bodies and anything else that has a black finish

Be careful with it on vulcanite or other covering materials. While it does freshen up black surfaces it has compounds in it that leach out the black pigment in rubber, vulcanite etc. So using it can be a doubled edged sword, nerdy car detailers (what was once known as washing your car) don't use it for this very reason, it freshens up say windscreen surround rubber if applied regularly, but then leave the black cleaner to completely wear off and you can see the rubber is now starting to turn grey, so you need more black cleaner.........

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On 3/1/2020 at 9:46 PM, Marckyokay said:

Thanks for the tips.

It’s what I already did, use the rubber on a more broad surface to try to even out whatever I did there in the first place, but it made things worse. Uneven spotty look, I would have never thought a soft eraser could even do that, so I’m still hoping there is a way to clean it...

Very hard to get on a photo.

 

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The M10P black and the new M10 Monochrom use a soft black chrome that is nothing like, nor not nearly as robust as the original black chrome used on the M6 bodies. I was in manufacturing all my life and to me this appears to be a soft anodized black chrome finish and the particles (particulates) that are standing up when first applied are now rubbed flat whereas if this were hard chrome in black it would be very very difficult to rub the finish. My M10M is weeks old and even with a butter soft Pelle strap the sides are already showing wear. Personally I think Leica should be embarrassed for using such a soft finish on both the M10M and M10P cameras given what they cost plus they will not "brass" as the painted bodies will as  with these the silver undercoat will show for a long time before seeing any brass. I feel that these premium black bodies should be black painted so that there is at least a nice patina IE: my LHSA black paint M6 which looks just marvelous after 18 years of use. Also if this is soft black chrome it is the least expensive anodized chrome finish available. 

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4 hours ago, insideline said:

The M10P black and the new M10 Monochrom use a soft black chrome that is nothing like, nor not nearly as robust as the original black chrome used on the M6 bodies. I was in manufacturing all my life and to me this appears to be a soft anodized black chrome finish and the particles (particulates) that are standing up when first applied are now rubbed flat whereas if this were hard chrome in black it would be very very difficult to rub the finish. My M10M is weeks old and even with a butter soft Pelle strap the sides are already showing wear. Personally I think Leica should be embarrassed for using such a soft finish on both the M10M and M10P cameras given what they cost plus they will not "brass" as the painted bodies will as  with these the silver undercoat will show for a long time before seeing any brass. I feel that these premium black bodies should be black painted so that there is at least a nice patina IE: my LHSA black paint M6 which looks just marvelous after 18 years of use. Also if this is soft black chrome it is the least expensive anodized chrome finish available. 

The good thing is the m10 safari started to brass like the old painted cameras .. 

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I have two M10s and I use the Leica half case on both of them. They look great with no wear other than slight burnishing of the sides of the camera above the strap eyelets. I use Peak Design quick releases on all of my cameras to connect wrist and neck straps.

Regards,
Bud James

Please check out my fine art and travel photography at www.budjames.photography or on Instagram at www.instagram.com/budjamesphoto.

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On 4/5/2020 at 11:54 PM, insideline said:

The M10P black and the new M10 Monochrom use a soft black chrome that is nothing like, nor not nearly as robust as the original black chrome used on the M6 bodies. I was in manufacturing all my life and to me this appears to be a soft anodized black chrome finish and the particles (particulates) that are standing up when first applied are now rubbed flat whereas if this were hard chrome in black it would be very very difficult to rub the finish. My M10M is weeks old and even with a butter soft Pelle strap the sides are already showing wear. Personally I think Leica should be embarrassed for using such a soft finish on both the M10M and M10P cameras given what they cost plus they will not "brass" as the painted bodies will as  with these the silver undercoat will show for a long time before seeing any brass. I feel that these premium black bodies should be black painted so that there is at least a nice patina IE: my LHSA black paint M6 which looks just marvelous after 18 years of use. Also if this is soft black chrome it is the least expensive anodized chrome finish available. 

That's strange. My more than two year old M10 doesn't show any wear, except on a few sharp edges, where I have managed to get some very small dents in the coating. I would say that the black chrome on the M10 is at least as durable as that on my M6TTL, on which I managed to get some scuff marks from the velcro inside the camera bag when the camera was quite new. Could they have changed something in the black chrome formula and/or coating technique between my M10 and later variants/production runs?

 

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On 3/1/2020 at 7:26 PM, Marckyokay said:


Well, sorry for reviving and old threat but I thought this could be used as a direct follow up...

I had a similar scratch (although much tinier than the threat starter) and remembered this, so I used a soft white eraser to rub it away and viola, the scratch really became much less visible. 
After going outside in the sun, to my shock, I realized I seemed to have polished the surface and the black chrome now looks really dirty/unevenly polished ...

I would have never thought a soft eraser could do this... and I can’t seem to be able to clean it / rub it away. Fingers, alcohol wipe (getting rare because of corona) wet tissue...

Any idea how I can clean the black chrome surface or an M10-P to get rid of this unwanted polish shine cause by an eraser?

 

I offer no solution but just wanted to add that I did the same as you. My watch made a mark on the top plate of my M10 mono and I used a damp cloth, alcohol swabs and eraser and all it did was leave an uneven mark right smack where your Leica script is. Using oil-based moisturiser and more alcohol swabs didn't work to remove the new marks. I suspect they are all caused by the eraser.

My strap lug areas are also marked, but that comes naturally with use. I can't un-see the top-plate marks though. It's only visible at some angles, but it's there, and at a location which rarely gets worn (so i suspect i will be left with this eyesore whilst the other parts of the body naturally "brass" and wear down).

The way this finish picks up particles is ridiculous. If eraser can "taint" the finish of the camera, it's downright silly paint to use. It picks substances up and leaves it there. I very much prefer black paint - it doesn't leave simple marks so easily and wears in the right places unless you wish to Kravitz it artificially. My M240 took a while to mark despite being black paint, but when it started it started doing so with ease.

I have yet to use WD40 (the only thing else I haven't tried), but I am sceptical it works. I can't imagine the top coat of the first-first layer of the paint to have been removed by the eraser but rather the particles from the eraser adhered to the top layer of the paint. This is why I suspect a substance that can "dislodge" the particles off the first layer may work.

 

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