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BEOON - enlarger lenses to avoid / recommended (Open thread - please add your experience for benefit of others)


Steve Ricoh

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Hi Steve,

 

here a shot of the Beoon stand with the Leitz 50 mm Focotar-2 lens plus tubes B + D at the height I am using it to "scan" my 135 rolls as mentioned  previously :

 

attachicon.gifT1010483 copy.jpg

 

Best, Jean-Marc.

 

 

 

That image illustrates a Leitz 50mm Focotar-2 lens, LEITZ 17675 (DOORX) M39 x 15mm Extension Tube, B & D BEOON Tubes.

 

 

Regards...Rick

Edited by rrdiaz30
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I am delighted with the results I am getting with a Schneider Kreuznach 50mm/f2,8 Componon S. Unlike other lenses I have tried where I was fiddling about with the various extension tubes to get focus (and usually failing), I could focus immediately with all three of the standard tubes in on the Componon and that gave perfect 1:1 reproduction with my SL. The other lens I tried with very similar results was a Rodenstock Rodagon 50/2,8. I could not tell which I had taken with the Rodagon apart from the focal length, which was slightly shorter than the Componon and as it was 2½ times the price, I went with the Componon S. 

 

The only other comment I would make is that on Agfa Precisa reversal film, which is a warm rendering film to begin with (it has a pale brown warming substrate under the Fuji Provia emulsion), the rendition of the Componon is slightly over warm. I take my images on the BEOON with the SL at a fixed 5600ºK colour temperature, so it is easy enough to adjust the DNG's in PP. 

 

Wilson

 

PS I had originally hoped that the Zeiss ZM Planar 50 would be a really good lens on the BEEON. I could not get it to work at all. It must be due to the position of its exit pupil. After having found the Componon, I see little point in experimenting further. 

Edited by wlaidlaw
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  • 2 weeks later...

Head-to-head the APO Rodagon bests the Componon-S. At least the two versions in my hands, so sample variations could be in play. I may have a great Rodagon and and so-so Componon-S (SN 14440752). This version is not the copy with the green circle. My Rodagon is not the later “N” version.


Another factor is actual focal length. The Rodagon is perfect to fill the frame of a B&W negative with the BEOON using the B, C & D tubes. The Componon must be a tad longer than 50mm as I cannot capture the entire frame with the Componon.


I have a few images up you can view and download.


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Head-to-head the APO Rodagon bests the Componon-S. At least the two versions in my hands, so sample variations could be in play. I may have a great Rodagon and and so-so Componon-S (SN 14440752). This version is not the copy with the green circle. My Rodagon is not the later “N” version.

Another factor is actual focal length. The Rodagon is perfect to fill the frame of a B&W negative with the BEOON using the B, C & D tubes. The Componon must be a tad longer than 50mm as I cannot capture the entire frame with the Componon.

I have a few images up you can view and download.

I note in the attached images the BEOON column is close to minimum height. Is this the case during use, or just a general view of your set up?

I've mentioned the problems I faced using the BEOON with the Componon all too often so I won't repeat it here, but your pic of the BEOON may show the limited degree of adjustment to accommodate variations of nodal points for different copies of the same lens.

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  • 2 years later...
Am 10.9.2017 um 20:07 schrieb Doug A:

Here are the two setups I use for digitizing negatives with the BEOON. The 35mm setup fills the frame of the APS sensor with the image of a 35mm negative. The MF setup fills the height of the sensor with the image of a Rolleiflex F2.8 negative. A Hasselblad negative is significantly smaller so the "scan" includes a heavy black border.

 

35mm setup:

  - Fuji X-T20 camera

  - 2.8/50 Schneider Componon-S enlarging lens

  - 40mm extension tube

I can lower the assembly about 5/8" below the focus point and raise it several inches above the focus point.

 

MF setup:

  - Fuji X-T20 camera

  - 40/4 El Nikkor enlarging lens

  - Extension tube C supplied with BEOON

I can lower the assembly about 2" below the focus point and raise it more than 2" above the focus point.

 

There is probably no need to repeat the obvious, but just in case...  These setups use an APSC camera. They will not work with a full frame camera.

I am just familiarising myself with the BEOON. So this works with Fuji X cameras as well or do I lose a bit of the image since it is APS-C? 
 

Is the magnification lens enough or do I need a macro lens as well?

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7 hours ago, Rokkor said:

I am just familiarising myself with the BEOON. So this works with Fuji X cameras as well or do I lose a bit of the image since it is APS-C? 
 

Is the magnification lens enough or do I need a macro lens as well?

Others use the Fuji ASPC with an equivalent full frame 50mm lens (33mm x 1.5 = 50) from recollection, but best reading the various BEOON threads. If memory serves me well, I think it’s forum member ‘Doug’ who uses the ASPC Fuji, so search his responses on the matter using advanced search.

 

Edited by Steve Ricoh
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I am using a Fuji X-T20 camera and a Schneider 50/2.8 Componon enlarging lens with my BEOON. Note that the BEOON is designed to work with an M mount camera and an M mount lens, or with an LTM mount camera and an LTM mount lens. Adapters are available to convert a Fuji X mount camera to M mount or LTM mount. There is no adaptor to convert a Fuji X mount lens to M mount or LTM mount. A 50mm lens will work well with an APSC camera on the BEOON but it must be either a native M mount or LTM mount lens, like the 50/2.8 Elmar I started with, or an adapted M mount or LTM mount lens like the LTM mount 50/2.5 Componon lens I switched to because I prefer the results.

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  • 2 months later...
On 11/19/2020 at 7:46 AM, Rokkor said:

Thanks for your comments. So in case using the BEOON with a Fuji APS-C 50mm would be the lens of choice.

I thought I would try it with my Olympus E-M5 4/3rds.  It worked very well using a 50mm f/2.8 El-Nikkor at f8, an old Kilfitt Kivis extension tube, and a 4x5" light box. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Am 11.2.2021 um 19:34 schrieb mckay3d:

I thought I would try it with my Olympus E-M5 4/3rds.  It worked very well using a 50mm f/2.8 El-Nikkor at f8, an old Kilfitt Kivis extension tube, and a 4x5" light box. 

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Nice and small setup!

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  • 1 month later...

As I have found a BEOON by now, I need a lens and followed this thread. It seems people also on the internet have good experience with: 

 

- Leitz Focotar-2 50mm 4.5

- Rodenstock Rodagon APO-50mm/2.8 N

- Schneider Componon

- Nikon EL- Nikkor

 

What is the difference of a Rodagon 50mm like this one and the one that has APO written on it? They look the same and I read that in general for enlarger lenses APO was not always mentioned even though it was an APO. 

 

Another one that I could not find any information about with BEOON - is this Minolta lens: 

- Minolta C.E. ROKKOR 50mm 1:2,8

 

Would that be a good option?

 

Thanks and kind regards.

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Hello, as old Beoon fan, I've tried out some lenses for slides/b&w negatives, in 24x36 and 24x65.

I thought that enlarger lenses in general can give good results, but not all even those reputed as excellent for enlarging.

I use two Focotar 4.5/50 (first version) in two "types", one is " a bit better" than the other in flatness of field and "resolution/contrast".

Nikon EL-Nikkor 50mm f:2.8 is not as good as I expected, (neither the Micro-Nikkor 3.5/50 with it's good reputation and very good in picture taking of 3D objects).

Good surprise with Summarit-M 2.5/50 and 2.5/75mm this last my best for 24x65 Xpan pics.

 

A - So trying the lens to be used is my best suggestion.

B - If you can find 50mm Focotar, I think that one would be foolproof as my experiences can confirm.

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vor 9 Minuten schrieb a.noctilux:

Hello, as old Beoon fan, I've tried out some lenses for slides/b&w negatives, in 24x36 and 24x65.

I thought that enlarger lenses in general can give good results, but not all even those reputed as excellent for enlarging.

I use two Focotar 4.5/50 (first version) in two "types", one is " a bit better" than the other in flatness of field and "resolution/contrast".

Nikon EL-Nikkor 50mm f:2.8 is not as good as I expected, (neither the Micro-Nikkor 3.5/50 with it's good reputation and very good in picture taking of 3D objects).

Good surprise with Summarit-M 2.5/50 and 2.5/75mm this last my best for 24x65 Xpan pics.

 

A - So trying the lens to be used is my best suggestion.

B - If you can find 50mm Focotar, I think that one would be foolproof as my experiences can confirm.

Thank you. That is interesting. I have not looked into Focotar 1 as I read it should be inferior to a Rodenstock Rodagon APO 50mm. So you would recommend a Focotar 1 then over a Rodagon?

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Sorry, I don't have experience with Rodagon apo or not, so I can't comment.

So many lenses out there can do the job when mounted on Beoon.

Try the first lens that you can, maybe it's good enough, who knows.

 

I think that the apo lens ( I do use some apo lenses to appreciate) can be nice for 3D objects, as focussing plane is different for different colors.

But for me not relevant for flat negatives/slides.

Apo lens can not hurt anyway as other corrections may be better done as well.

 

Second time 😉...

Now I use less the Beoon + Focotar because of dusty negatives (in color with Coolscan ICE auto dust removing) or slides.

B&w neg. can be same in this repros (my prefered with Beoon), as ICE can't be used.

Good for quick repros but to be "archived" work that I want to do, Nikon scanner is better even slow, still quicker than removing dust in PP.

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There is a website I found (it may be referenced somewhere in this long thread), where someone did a huge amount of very competent research on lenses for scanning: Resolution, field flatness, etc, etc. The conclusion he came to was that the best lens was the 50mm/2,8 APO Rodenstock Rodagon with the 50mm/2,8 Schneider-Kreuznach Componon S Green Stripe, a close second. This backs up my own experience. In the end I opted for the Componon as I found one at around 25% of the price of the cheapest APO Rodagon. If I did more scanning, I would have gone for the APO Rodagon. The comments on the Focotar was that it was quite good but that the youngest one is now nearly 50 years old. If it has lived all that time in the typical atmosphere of a darkroom, it is quite likely to have fungus deterioration. It is also a slower lens so does not have quite the same stopping down for additional resolution abilities that the Rodagon and Componon have. The other thing to bear in mind is lens sample variation. It would be possible to find a really good example of say a Nikkor lens, which could then out-perform a poor example of the APO-Rodagon, although to be fair, Rodenstock have a very good reputation for quality control. Try and get whatever you buy with a "return if not satisfied agreement". 

Wilson

Edited by wlaidlaw
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Thanks for all your comments. I could find a Rodagon APO 50mm N lens for around  50 dollars, which is why I would like to try this route, even though I guess the Focotar-2 would also have been a great option. Let's see how this will work. 

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When I started this thread, what seems like yonks ago, I was influenced by the internet in thinking the 50mm Leica camera lens was inferior to an enlarger lens. As a consequence I purchased the Nikkor 50mm f2.8 and then subsequently a Schneider-Kreuznach Componon 50mm/2.8. My experience with enlarger lenses: the advertised 50mm focal length can be something other than 50mm and consequently not all work well on the Beoon with a full- frame digital such as the M240. The problem being for 1:1 reproduction, the Beoon was engineered on the basis of a 50mm lens, not a hit or miss enlarger lens not so precise in terms of focal length. With my Summilux 50/1.4 mounted, the Beoon column height is approximately mid height, meaning there’s adequate adjustment to acquire critical focus. With either of the two enlarger lenses mentioned above, the Beoon column ‘bottoms out’ and it’s impossible to adjust either side of critical focus, which isn’t helpful. 
The bottom line: the Summilux 50mm/1.4 stopped down to f11 produces more than adequate results for my needs.

 

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2 hours ago, Rokkor said:

Thanks for all your comments. I could find a Rodagon APO 50mm N lens for around  50 dollars, which is why I would like to try this route, even though I guess the Focotar-2 would also have been a great option. Let's see how this will work. 

I would be very suspicious of an APO Rodagon 50/2.8 at that price. The normal price for a used APO Rodagon is $300 to $600. The new price for an APO Rodagon 50mm is $960. Are you sure it is the APO version you are being offered, as that price is much more in line with the price for the non-APO version and even cheap for that one. A 50mm/2,8 Componon S Green Stripe (they have a lever at the side unlike the non-green stripe version) will sell for around $150 to $200. 

Wilson

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