wagner Posted September 5, 2017 Share #1 Posted September 5, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) Morning! Had lately worked on two Leica R7. Always wanted an R7 and, since I like to fix things, I bought two 'faulty" cameras for a good price. Well, the first R7 was optically in a very good condition. Hardly been used. But, there were two issues. The viewfinderpicture was completely soft and the lever for the "+/_" ASA correction was "loose". The faulty ASA correction is a relatively common problem. What happens is, that the lever was moved without pressing the release button. The "lever" is a plastic ring with a "fork" , engaged to a inner ring. And one pin of the fork broke. Theoretically the ring needs to be replaced, but since spare parts a rare, that wasn't possible. So I fitted an 1mm metal pin a drilled hole and glued the pin wit 2 component glue. Works perfectly. Probably more robust now... The finder: the issue here was, that the - adjustable - lens element of the the okular was missing... no clue, why it was removed.... Anyway, here I had luck, and could fit one from a broken R5. That was was it on this R7, Now to the other one. This camera was in a little crash and the "Leica" cover on the top was hanging loose on 1 screw and badly scratched. Generally the camera was still working fine, but ther were as well two issues: the shutter speed time wasn't displayed in the viewfinder and the programm-/aperture automatic didn't work properly. After removing the top cover it was clear what the problems were: the 2 mirrors for the shutter speed "projection" were out if position. (on the photo you can see the LED board on top, an further down the 2 little mirrors) took me some time to get them right again, but at the end was successful. The problem with the aperture automatic was as well a mechanical one. The little lever- switch, when the smallest aperture get set ) was stuck. A little drop of oil was bringing the mechanic back to work! So, now I've got 2 nice fully working Leica R7. Although I still like my R9 and my older ones - R5/SL/SL2 - I must admit, that I enjoy using the R7. This camera is probably the most advanced "classic" SLR. (maybe besides the Nikon FM3a.) Torsten Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 11 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/276516-repairs-on-a-leica-r7/?do=findComment&comment=3352239'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 5, 2017 Posted September 5, 2017 Hi wagner, Take a look here Repairs on a Leica R7. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
SilentShutter Posted September 5, 2017 Share #2 Posted September 5, 2017 Well done Torsten - glad your R7´s are back at business ! I once had also two of them but decided to switch to a R8 which still will be my favourite. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagner Posted September 5, 2017 Author Share #3 Posted September 5, 2017 Thanks! Always a nice feeling, to bring "broken cameras" back in business! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilentShutter Posted September 6, 2017 Share #4 Posted September 6, 2017 I fixed a Nikkormat EL which apperature contact was stuck a bit Funny that nobody really remembers these Nikons as a "classic" In combination with these old pre-AI lenses like the Nikkor P 3,5/55 Micro or the legendary Nikkor P 2,5/105 you get all you need for a small budget ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
masjah Posted September 6, 2017 Share #5 Posted September 6, 2017 I really enjoyed reading this - vicarious pleasure in seeing two camera got up and running again! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh 38 Posted September 15, 2017 Share #6 Posted September 15, 2017 Interesting reading , and well done on doing the repairs , too much stuff is thrown away . Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted September 15, 2017 Share #7 Posted September 15, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) It's always good to give stuff a new lease of life. My R3 shutter became unreliable (sometimes not opening at 1/500 or 1/1000th) and all the places I tried said it cannot be repaired (let me know if you want to try ) I bought a very cheap R3 body from an auction house, via the net. There's a reason why it was cheap of course, which I only found out when I collected it, the little metal 'prong' in the battery chamber was missing! Damn (I thought). I thought OK, I can open it up and weld a small prong back in. After looking online and finding some diagrams of the R3 innards, I found that it would be no good removing the base plate to get to the other side of the battery chamber would mean stripping the whole camera down. Damn again!! As a matter of curiosity more than anything I thought that if the 'prong' was still attached behind the battery chamber, if I could poke some small metal strip in there and put batteries in, maybe just maybe it would connect. The only thing to hand was a good old paperclip so I bent it into an L shape, pushed it it, put the batteries in and screwed on the cover..........amazingly it has worked!! It might be a faff when I have to come to fit new batteries (I can't believe it was that easy to get the paperclip to connect inside) but it's saved an otherwise dead R3 from landfill. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
masjah Posted September 15, 2017 Share #8 Posted September 15, 2017 It's always good to give stuff a new lease of life. My R3 shutter became unreliable (sometimes not opening at 1/500 or 1/1000th) and all the places I tried said it cannot be repaired (let me know if you want to try ) I bought a very cheap R3 body from an auction house, via the net. There's a reason why it was cheap of course, which I only found out when I collected it, the little metal 'prong' in the battery chamber was missing! Damn (I thought). I thought OK, I can open it up and weld a small prong back in. After looking online and finding some diagrams of the R3 innards, I found that it would be no good removing the base plate to get to the other side of the battery chamber would mean stripping the whole camera down. Damn again!! As a matter of curiosity more than anything I thought that if the 'prong' was still attached behind the battery chamber, if I could poke some small metal strip in there and put batteries in, maybe just maybe it would connect. The only thing to hand was a good old paperclip so I bent it into an L shape, pushed it it, put the batteries in and screwed on the cover..........amazingly it has worked!! It might be a faff when I have to come to fit new batteries (I can't believe it was that easy to get the paperclip to connect inside) but it's saved an otherwise dead R3 from landfill. Reminds me of the can ring-pull handlebar repair in Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance; very satisfying, very Zen. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M3Tom Posted September 15, 2017 Share #9 Posted September 15, 2017 Hi Torsten, good work, very well done. As you know, I do the same works on R's. I'm also looking for a defect R7 as you did. Maybe it'll be the same way....;-) Your report will help me. Thanks a lot! Greetings from Stuttgart Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagner Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share #10 Posted September 15, 2017 Hallo Tom! Besten Dank! Regards from Cape Town! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
atournas Posted September 21, 2017 Share #11 Posted September 21, 2017 Thank you for posting this interesting reading. I own an R7--actually, it's my very first Leica, from late 90's. Beautiful piece! Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillipmartin Posted April 12, 2022 Share #12 Posted April 12, 2022 I have the same shutter speed problem. I can't identify the little mirrors from the pictures. Can you clarify? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caenalog Posted July 23, 2023 Share #13 Posted July 23, 2023 Am 5.9.2017 um 10:25 schrieb wagner: Morning! Had lately worked on two Leica R7. Always wanted an R7 and, since I like to fix things, I bought two 'faulty" cameras for a good price. Well, the first R7 was optically in a very good condition. Hardly been used. But, there were two issues. The viewfinderpicture was completely soft and the lever for the "+/_" ASA correction was "loose". The faulty ASA correction is a relatively common problem. What happens is, that the lever was moved without pressing the release button. The "lever" is a plastic ring with a "fork" , engaged to a inner ring. And one pin of the fork broke. Theoretically the ring needs to be replaced, but since spare parts a rare, that wasn't possible. So I fitted an 1mm metal pin a drilled hole and glued the pin wit 2 component glue. Works perfectly. Probably more robust now... Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! The finder: the issue here was, that the - adjustable - lens element of the the okular was missing... no clue, why it was removed.... Anyway, here I had luck, and could fit one from a broken R5. That was was it on this R7, Now to the other one. This camera was in a little crash and the "Leica" cover on the top was hanging loose on 1 screw and badly scratched. Generally the camera was still working fine, but ther were as well two issues: the shutter speed time wasn't displayed in the viewfinder and the programm-/aperture automatic didn't work properly. After removing the top cover it was clear what the problems were: the 2 mirrors for the shutter speed "projection" were out if position. (on the photo you can see the LED board on top, an further down the 2 little mirrors) took me some time to get them right again, but at the end was successful. The problem with the aperture automatic was as well a mechanical one. The little lever- switch, when the smallest aperture get set ) was stuck. A little drop of oil was bringing the mechanic back to work! So, now I've got 2 nice fully working Leica R7. Although I still like my R9 and my older ones - R5/SL/SL2 - I must admit, that I enjoy using the R7. This camera is probably the most advanced "classic" SLR. (maybe besides the Nikon FM3a.) Torsten Dear Torsten, very interesting article. I’ve got the same problem with my R7 (the asa dial is not adjustable). would it be possible to share some insights on how to remove the top plate of the R7? That would help a lot. thanks a lot Jan Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagner Posted July 24, 2023 Author Share #14 Posted July 24, 2023 Hi jan! Hope i can remember all the steps now. Let me think. I would start with the wind lever: remove plastic cover (screw under the leaver) and then undo the- Philips - screw on the axis. Then the leaver can be removed. Take care about the little spring under the leaver, which sits in a little plastic ring. Then there is a brass ring - special tool needed - with 2 slots which needs to get unscrewed. Take care about the washers. The eyecup; remove the the "leather" strip and remove the 2 srews. Remove the screw on the left side of the finder. On the left side: remove the crank: Put a screwdrive in the - film - slot an unwind the crank. Under the crank you find again a ring with 2 slots. Remove the ring. Then You can remove the "ASA rIng assembling". Guess, there were some washers, so take care about them. On the front: Take out the top screw of the lens mount. (Guess it makes sense to loosen slightly the other screws of the mount, to give a little play to the cover) I think the "Leica plate" can stay, but you might remove it as well. (2 screws) Now you should be able to carefully remove the cover. (Take care about the ribbon. ) The procedure is not that tricky, but you should have some experience with that kind of work. Certain things do need special attention when put back the cover, for instance: diopter adjustment, position of the rings, (time ring, ASA ring), spring of the wind leaver. Hope, I haven't forgotten anything. Good luck for your repair. Torsten 1 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregNski Posted July 25, 2023 Share #15 Posted July 25, 2023 Always nice to see something repaired instead of thrown out! We do that to too many things these days when a little work would bring it back to life. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrh68uk Posted July 29, 2023 Share #16 Posted July 29, 2023 I just bought an R7 for a (relative) song, which was sold as "for parts" because it has significant corrosion on the chrome parts and was described as "seems to work" which I took as "probably doesn't function 100% as it should". I want to repair the stop down lever/mechanism on one R7 and nick a blanking plate for another one (just for cosmetic reasons). It arrived this morning and yes, the outer chrome parts, top and bottom, looked bad. Also there was some foam degradation of the rear door, almost certainly accelerated because of damp storage (it smelled musty too). I gave it a quick functional check. It seemed to work. So I gave it a full functional once-over and it's perfect. No problems anywhere. Meter, stop-down, P, T, A, +/-, ISO, displays, LEDs... - everything checks out. Gave it a good cleaning and so much grime came off, leaving a shiny, yet still bubbled of course, finish top and bottom. Optically completely clear. Bad foam removed and cleaned up well. So now I can't bring myself to steal parts from it. I'll replace the light seals that I removed and it will live on! I do love these R7s. And now I have to find another for parts 🙂 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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