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The curious case for the 40mm Summicron... With images


Evo

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I was initially a bit neutral about the Summicron 40-C. Yes it was super compact but rather prone to flare and a bit soggy wide open. Most of the markings had worn off mine or been filled with dirt, plus there was some visible oil contamination and lots of dust inside. It also had a bit of back focus at f2, which only got worse on stopping down. I sent it to Malcolm Taylor who is supposed to have a special tweak for this lens and instructed him as well as servicing/restoring to set it up with a tiny amount of front focus at 2 metres and f2 but still within the DoF for a full frame digital. It came back a lot improved but while it was away on its holidays in Oswestry, I had bought an ex-display Summicron 35 ASPH, which is only a very small amount larger and heavier and noticeably better. As a result I really only use my Summicron 40-C on my CL, with which it makes for a nice pocket camera. I do feel its rendition suits film better than digital, especially for pixel peeping, where its slight limitations are somewhat more obvious. 

 

BTW for anyone whose original 12518 rubber hood has disintegrated like mine had, Heavy2Stars sells a Series 5,5 to e39 converter ring, so that you can use a regular e39 ventilated hood (and filters). 

 

Wilson

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The CL has a slightly different pitch for the MF then the M - so the depth of focus needs to be considered by CL lens on a M

 

What do you mean by "different pitch for the MF"? Do you refer to its special focus cam? If so there is no focus problem on M bodies in my experience with three different copies of this lens. 

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The CL has a slightly different pitch for the MF then the M - so the depth of focus needs to be considered by CL lens on a M

 

I believe only on the M5, which has an offset RF cam. Dante Stella has written a very detailed technical analysis on this. When my 40-C came back from Malcolm Taylor, I checked with my M240, which can very rapidly spot any focus RF to optical discrepancy and at f2 for various distances, there was none apparent. Yes there was still a small amount of aperture shift but nothing to worry about seriously. 

 

Wilson

Edited by wlaidlaw
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I just remembered that I had posted a comment on coding the 40 summicron-C. The position of a screw on the flang (where codes are usually grooved) makes it non trivial but doable. Mine works beautifully on M240 coded as pre-ASPH 35mm Summicron. It helps in auto ISO algorithm (for the minimum shutterspeed parameter) too.

 

https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/185433-m-lens-codes/?p=2830537

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I just remembered that I had posted a comment on coding the 40 summicron-C. The position of a screw on the flang (where codes are usually grooved) makes it non trivial but doable. Mine works beautifully on M240 coded as pre-ASPH 35mm Summicron. It helps in auto ISO algorithm (for the minimum shutterspeed parameter) too.

 

https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/185433-m-lens-codes/?p=2830537

 

I will post a photo of the coding on mine, done by Malcolm Taylor, tomorrow when I have some decent light again. I think it is coded as a Summicron 50 but I cannot remember which version until I check. 

 

Wilson

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OK, I'll admit it I'm a bit nutty for Summicrons. I have the 35mm ASPH the 50mm classic and the recently I found a 40mm (from the CL) for a measly $450 on fleabay. OK you say, why? You have two perfectly good lenses that actually have matching frame lines on your M10. There are two very good reasons I can come up with, the first is size. The lens is downright diminutive. It takes the M10 from small mirrorless to large point and shoot. It's now suitable for stuffing in a Billingham Aeva 5 pouch and throwing on a belt even for casual nights out or chasing the kids around the playground. Number 2 is it's actually a spectacular little lens with all the character and sharpness you could ever ask for.

I'm actually finding it perfect for environmental portraiture and general street pics. It's also well suited to making multiple image panorama stitches with it's natural perspective. More than anything though it's just a pretty lens and it can do about 80% of the job of both a 35mm and a 50mm as well as have it's own character.

OK so how do you frame it? Honestly it's not hard, the 50mm frame lines come up with it attached and I just imagine the frame is just outside those lines and I'm pretty close. For those instances where precise framing is necessary I always have live view.

lastly I have great little Minolta double asphere close up diopter that I've adapted and this makes the little 40mm perfect for certain macro shots (especially watches and camera gear).

Can you tell me more about Minolta double asphere close up diopter? Sounds interesting. Can it be used by other M lenses as well?

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  • 2 months later...

From yesterday's shoot using 40summicron-C on Nex6

 

I kind of like the Sun flare. :)
 

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  • 3 weeks later...

There is San Francisco auto show going on and just for fun I took only my 40 sumicron-c (on M240). It is not sharpest wide open but totally satisfying in final results. :)

 

I won't hesitate taking this lens out as a general purpose lens.

 

All shot wide open at f/2

 

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Edited by jmahto
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I used my rokkor 40 sooo much on my M9 for many years. These days I have an M10 and the 35mm frame lines seem to be much closer to genuine 35mm coverage than 40mm coverage, so I'm finding the 40 much harder to use on the M10 (I did the filed flange mod'). I suppose I just have to re-learn the new lens+viewfinder combination to get my framing more accurate on the M10, but it's frustrating me at the moment.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just got the cron 40 back after a makeover job :p

 

Credit to Alan of Cameraworks

 

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Edited by Rus
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I was initially a bit neutral about the Summicron 40-C. Yes it was super compact but rather prone to flare and a bit soggy wide open. Most of the markings had worn off mine or been filled with dirt, plus there was some visible oil contamination and lots of dust inside. It also had a bit of back focus at f2, which only got worse on stopping down. I sent it to Malcolm Taylor who is supposed to have a special tweak for this lens and instructed him as well as servicing/restoring to set it up with a tiny amount of front focus at 2 metres and f2 but still within the DoF for a full frame digital. It came back a lot improved but while it was away on its holidays in Oswestry, I had bought an ex-display Summicron 35 ASPH, which is only a very small amount larger and heavier and noticeably better. As a result I really only use my Summicron 40-C on my CL, with which it makes for a nice pocket camera. I do feel its rendition suits film better than digital, especially for pixel peeping, where its slight limitations are somewhat more obvious. 

 

BTW for anyone whose original 12518 rubber hood has disintegrated like mine had, Heavy2Stars sells a Series 5,5 to e39 converter ring, so that you can use a regular e39 ventilated hood (and filters). 

 

Wilson

Be very careful with that adapter ring; many Summicron C lenses have worn filter threads and then it will not pose too many problems, but if you have a pristine one, like I have, the aluminium of the adapter ring can bind to the lens, making it nigh-impossible to remove.

I had to send mine to Will van Manen to have it cut off.

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I put a wipe of silicone grease on all aluminium adapter rings, hoods and filter, using a cotton bud. B+W filters are notorious for seizing onto brass/chrome lenses. I have never failed to get a stuck filter off, using my sticky circle of plastic, made to help arthritic people remove bottle tops. There is now an even better device. https://www.amazon.co.uk/HuntGold-Purpose-Bottle-Opener-Useful/dp/B013WOL0E0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1513018666&sr=8-5&keywords=Jar+top+opener 

 

Wilson

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Be very careful with that adapter ring; many Summicron C lenses have worn filter threads and then it will not pose too many problems, but if you have a pristine one, like I have, the aluminium of the adapter ring can bind to the lens, making it nigh-impossible to remove.

I had to send mine to Will van Manen to have it cut off.

I do use the adapter ring. Thanks for the warning. So far I have not noticed binding and I have removed it couple of times (for aesthetics but have gone back to lens shade). I will follow Wilson's advice of using grease.

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I put a wipe of silicone grease on all aluminium adapter rings, hoods and filter, using a cotton bud. B+W filters are notorious for seizing onto brass/chrome lenses. I have never failed to get a stuck filter off, using my sticky circle of plastic, made to help arthritic people remove bottle tops. There is now an even better device. https://www.amazon.co.uk/HuntGold-Purpose-Bottle-Opener-Useful/dp/B013WOL0E0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1513018666&sr=8-5&keywords=Jar+top+opener 

 

Wilson

Thanks for the tip. What I will do without this forum?  :)

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  • jaapv changed the title to The curious case for the 40mm Summicron... With images

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