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Useful to shoot some slide film – BEOON+M10


Guest Nowhereman

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Guest Nowhereman

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What tube/adapter combination are folks using on the BEOON to get the correct 1:1 reproduction of a 35mm film with an L39 mount 50mm enlarging lens and M mount full frame digital. There is a thread on RFF that is struggling with this. They either get less than 1:1 or run out of distance on the BEOON focus pillar. Since that is the combination I will be using, I am interested for my own purposes. 

 

Wilson

 

Wilson - The Focotar-2 50 mm lens works perfectly with the B+C+D tubes. 

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Guest Nowhereman

...Two of my Focotar 4.5/50mm work best with rings A+B+C and 1:1 mask for slides or negatives...

 

Are you sure you don't mean the B+C+D rings? The A ring has an M-Mount for an M-Mount lens; the Focotar-2 50mm lens uses a M39 screw mount, as do other enlarger lenses.

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"Scanning" old film shots with the BEOON, the photo below made me think that its worthwhile to shoot transparency film occasionally: had I shot this with the M10, I would have underexposed by rds of a stop and lifted the shadows enough to show some detail inside the doorway; but in the Ektachrome slide there is no detail in the deep shadow — and there's the rapid fallout of light in the top-right of the frame, under the roof of the verandah we're standing on. This dark area is what accentuates the color of the shot. Color negative film would, in this shot, also not have the same look. So, shooting this with the M10, you would to have to be very conscious of wanting this light fall-off. My feeling is that if you shoot and scan transparency film occasionally, you can keep this look in mind much more easily when you process a digital shot.

 

I should add that digitalizing slides with the M10 on the BEOON is fast and easy. My feeling is that the dynamic range of the M10 handles even dense slide easily, and most of the file only a little adjustment in LR is needed.

 

 

M6 | Summicron 35v4 | Ektachrome E100S

 

Wiang Pa Pao

 

_________________

Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine

Isn't this possible with an old Visoflex iii and bellows? Edited by otto.f
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Focotar 2 50's seem pretty rare. I can only find one on Fleabay, not in particularly good condition and quite expensive for an old (over 40 years) enlarging lens. Does anyone know the exact focal length of the Focotar 50? I can ask Rodenstock about the Rodagon-N, since it is still a current lens. If they are both very close to exactly 50mm, they should both use the same extension tubes. 

 

Wilson

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Guest Nowhereman

Continuing with digitalizations of old slides, with same setup. The first is at Taylor Bay Beach (Providenciales, Turks and Caicos) and the second near Solomons on Mill Creek, off the Chesapeake Bay, both in the late-1980s on Kodoacrome 64, taken with the M6 and the Summicron 50.

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Are you sure you don't mean the B+C+D rings? The A ring has an M-Mount for an M-Mount lens; the Focotar-2 50mm lens uses a M39 screw mount, as do other enlarger lenses.

 

Trying some different rings, sorry I forgot that I did use A ring (with M to screw 39 to mount Focotar :p ) but not only A+B+C, + X to go exactly 1.1:1 (yes 110% not to nclude mount).

 

Now just check the best combination found and used is D+B+ ring 14020 (15mm)+Focotar+FIKUS hood and of course Beoon +M10 or Monochrom for b&w negatives.

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The first one below is from a boat crossing over to Lamu Island, 150 miles north of Mombasa in 1965. Taken with Leica IIIc and Summitar 50 lens on Kodachrome II. The second one around 1978, taken with M3 and Summicron 50 on Ektachrome 200.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest Nowhereman

Continuing with some of the family slides that I've digitalized with the BEOON + Focotar 2 50mm + M10, below are two Kodachrome 25 images, the first from the mid-70s and the second from the late-80s, both with the Summicron 50mm lens.

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Two more Kodachrome digitalizations, from 1989, of Fuji-san:

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Mitch - are you reproducing (scanning) the negative / transparencies with the emulsion side towards the lens or the other way? I've read that it's best with emulsion (dull side) towards the lens - something to do with photographing through the anti-halation layer with the shiny side towards the lens which can make things worse, although I don't really see why there should be difference since light has to pass through the negative irrespective of which side points towards the lens.

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Steve - I've been digitalizing with the emulsion side down, but among the 400-odd slides I worked on recently there was a handful that I digitalized with the emulsion side up and then flipped — I didn't see any difference.

 

EDIT - I just checked the manual for my old Imacon scanner: it states that the film should be placed with the emulsion side down — as the lens is above the film and the light source is below, that is equivalent to placing the film emulsion side down when using the BEOON, although I'm not sure this is relevant for the BEOON.

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One reason for digitizing 35mm negatives with the emulsion side down is that it reduces the chance of scratching the emulsion when the strip of negatives passes under the base of the BEOON. It might also reduce the possibility of Newton's rings because the emulsion side has more of a matte surface than the back side.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I finally located a complete BEOON after nearly a year of searching. Initial test with a 60mm R Macro Lens and M10 looks positive, but I need to test further on my slides. Is anyone scanning negatives? How do you reverse the image?

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