Jump to content

Negative film scanner


fatihayoglu

Recommended Posts

With the recent increase in film sales, is there any likelihood that someone will start making a high quality film scanner again along the lines of the Nikon Coolscan range?

 

I suppose the first sign would be if Nikon or Canon were to start making film cameras again. 

Peter, a few friends have now asked me for scanner advice, having first bought a film camera (or two).

Finding great used film cameras at a budget price isn't a problem, but when they've had a few rolls developed and want to start scanning (and then ask me) - that's when the trouble starts...

 

I'm frankly at a loss why there aren't more 'prosumer' dedicated film scanners to choose from - I'd be in the business myself, if I had the chance. A quality Leica-branded scanner around the same level of the Nikon Coolscan9000 - that's something I'd love to be able to recommend.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Recommendations please for a 'light box' to preview negs.

(I only have time to scan the best of the bunch, that's assuming I find any within the bunch. Using a Plustek 8200Ai, but finding scanning a bit of a chore and can always think of better things to do.)

I now do a quick preview on the lowest dpi setting to select a shot then adjust the angle of the film holder before previewing with a higher dpi setting prior to scanning. 

 

If anyone has tips on cutting the film straight and safely (not cutting into the frame) I'd be interested.

Pete

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

.. I am very satisfied with the hasselblad imacon 949.

24x36, mf, gf (4x5)!

 

My Imacon experience has been different. After not having shot film for over ten years, last year, after a lot of effort and time spent, I got the Precision III, with its SCSI interface, working on an old Mac with OS X 10,6 — only to find that the trailing edge of the 35mm frame lost focus. After research on the execellent Yahoo Imacon group, I found that I could fix this by changing a spring and the drive belts, which are available from suppliers in the US and the UK. I remembered though, when I first bought the scanner (new) over 17years ago, I had a similar problem with the drive and feed system, which caused the 35mm negative holder to buckle or slip diagonally, frequently ruining scans. This first happened six months after purchase and was fixed under warranty service — only to reappear some months later. At the time, I didn’t know how to fix this and, by then, had taken the scanner to Bangkok, where there was no Imacon service.
 
Finally, I gave up on the Imacon when I further read that many of the Imacon and Hasselblad (same drive system) scanners require frequent service in this respect. I concluded that these Imacon and Hasselblad scanners, which have the same drive mechanism, only make sense (beyond the price issue) in a photo lab environment, if they can be serviced and maintained regularly. 
 
I haven't tried the Plustek scanners, but their dMax is only 3.6 compared to the 4.2 of the Imacon Percision III, which has a true optical resolution of 6,300ppi. Instead, I’ve been using the BEOON copy stand and a Leica Focotar II enlarger lens, with the M9 and M-Monochrom. This gives me scans that look close to the 4.2 dynamic range and resolution of the Imacon. I think this will still improve when I start digitalizing with my new M10.
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

If anyone has tips on cutting the film straight and safely (not cutting into the frame) I'd be interested.

Pete

 

I normally lay the developed negative strip on a long table and move it with the first 6-8 frames onto a letter-sized LED light table. I use long scissors to cut in the middle after 5 frames each to the end of the film (because my negative archive foils fit up to five in a row). Challenging part is to cut in the right spot between lit areas of two following frames (which appear bright in the negative and dark in the final photo) - best count the number of perforation holes above or below a different 35 mm frame and apply to find the middle cut. 

Edited by Martin B
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

There was also a thread in the german forum that might be interesting:

https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/143450-film-scanner-beispiel-und-sammelthread/

 

Thanks, interesting that you found (page 11 post# 207) that the M240 essentially does as well as the Imacon 848. I see that you used a Canon FD 4.0/100 mm macro lens on the M204 — I would think that an enlarger lens like the Focotar II would do even better.

_______________

Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine

Link to post
Share on other sites

If anyone has tips on cutting the film straight and safely (not cutting into the frame) I'd be interested.

Pete

 

I do, Pete. Because I deal with hand tremors I must be careful cutting between frames. One way is to place a short steel straight edge in the space between frames, and slice against the straight edge with a craft knife - or scissors. It works for me.

 

On the other hand, if the adjacent frames are not good shots, I cut 1/3rd into them.

 

Finally, if you have a darkroom with a 6x*cm carrier, place the negative in it, line it up to the middle of the space between frames and cut with a craft knife.

 

(Exacta camera owners can gloat here because they have in-camera film slicers. ;))

 

Good luck!

Edited by pico
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, interesting that you found (page 11 post# 207) that the M240 essentially does as well as the Imacon 848. I see that you used a Canon FD 4.0/100 mm macro lens on the M204 — I would think that an enlarger lens like the Focotar II would do even better.

_______________

Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine

 

:) but I still prefer using my 848. Tested the M 240 for a lot of framed slides to be scanned to avoid to umount them.

Mostly I work on negative, and I'm afraid turning them to positive could be tricky, especially in color, but I haven't tried.

For the test I did a scan with the same size like the M 240. But the scanner is capable of a even higher resolution.

 

Regards

 

Frank

Edited by fotomas
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

[...] I would think that an enlarger lens like the Focotar II would do even better.

 

Permit me one contradicting opinion. None of the Focotar lenses are superior to Rodenstock.

Edited by pico
Link to post
Share on other sites

:) but I still prefer using my 848. Tested the M 240 for a lot of framed slides to be scanned to avoid to umount them.

Mostly I work on negative, and I'm afraid turning them to positive could be tricky, especially in color, but I haven't tried.

For the test I did a scan with the same size like the M 240. But the scanner is capable of a even higher resolution...

 

Frank - I found that the Tri-X negatives digitalized using the MM+Focotar II , on the basis of careful visual inspection, were virtually indistinguishable from scans on the Imagecon Precision III at 6,3000ppi, although the Imacon has somewhat higher resolution.

 

For color negative film, I used the M9 and ColorPerfect for inversion and orange mask removal: quick and easy, with the film presets in ColorPerfect getting you close; but final color adjustments I prefer to make in Lightroom because the view of the file simply is better than in ColorPerfect, not to speak of the latter's un-intuitive user interface.

_______________

 

Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine

Link to post
Share on other sites

I now do a quick preview on the lowest dpi setting to select a shot then adjust the angle of the film holder before previewing with a higher dpi setting prior to scanning.

 

If anyone has tips on cutting the film straight and safely (not cutting into the frame) I'd be interested.

Pete

I cut as I'm feeding the film into a sleeve on a light table so I can see what I'm doing. I note where the next gap is, then look at the sprocket holes and cut between them, ignoring the frames themselves.

 

Good scissors, good light and use the sprocket holes as a guide.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Recommendations please for a 'light box' to preview negs.

(I only have time to scan the best of the bunch, that's assuming I find any within the bunch. Using a Plustek 8200Ai, but finding scanning a bit of a chore and can always think of better things to do.)

The best 'light box' you could get is an Epson V700 and do quick thumbnail scans as a digital contact sheet. Then choose the best images to scan with your Plustek. The V700 using the native Epson software does a great job of automatically scanning contact sheets, the only irritation with 35mm is you can only scan four film strips at a time, but even that is better than having to hand feed one strip at a time. 

Edited by 250swb
Link to post
Share on other sites

The best 'light box' you could get is an Epson V700 and do quick thumbnail scans as a digital contact sheet. Then choose the best images to scan with your Plustek. The V700 using the native Epson software does a great job of automatically scanning contact sheets, the only irritation with 35mm is you can only scan four film strips at a time, but even that is better than having to hand feed one strip at a time. 

Almost copybook of what I do Steve, although I'll be darned if I can work out how to scan the four at a time as you suggest. It's a great way to see what you have and what's worth going the next level with.

 

I use the older 4870 Epson, but with the Epson software (I also have an use Vuescan of course, and with the Plustek I can use either Vuescan or Silverfast).

 

Any pointers on where to read up on producing contact sheets with the Epson please?

Gary

Link to post
Share on other sites

I use the Plustek 8200i as well and am satisfied. The next step up would cost way more. Top resolution is supposedly 3250 dpi, which is fine for 12 x 18" prints.  

 

Mine came with SilverFast, but I prefer VueScan. Once you create presets, things go pretty quick.

 

The fact that it doesn't have a continuous feed isn't an issue. I get a few worth scanning from each roll and the contact sheet tells that story well enough. 

 

John 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I use the Plustek 8200i as well and am satisfied. The next step up would cost way more. Top resolution is supposedly 3250 dpi, which is fine for 12 x 18" prints.  

 

Mine came with SilverFast, but I prefer VueScan. Once you create presets, things go pretty quick.

 

The fact that it doesn't have a continuous feed isn't an issue. I get a few worth scanning from each roll and the contact sheet tells that story well enough. 

 

John 

 

You can change the resolution in SilverFast 8 as customs setting - which I prefer to do instead of using any of the menu scan presets. I normally scan with my Plustek 8200Ai at 3600 dpi (which is more than sufficient), but the scanner can actually go up to 7200 dpi as max. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

You can change the resolution in SilverFast 8 as customs setting - which I prefer to do instead of using any of the menu scan presets. I normally scan with my Plustek 8200Ai at 3600 dpi (which is more than sufficient), but the scanner can actually go up to 7200 dpi as max. 

 

Yes, but you must scan at the maximum advertised resolution to achieve the maximum actual resolution of 3250. That is if you believe the testing done by the folks at filmscanner.info. Unfortunately, scan times are not so fast then and the files are huge. 

 

John 

Edited by johnwolf
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...