Tailwagger Posted July 31, 2017 Share #21 Posted July 31, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) Beautiful picture! Try rubbing out the bird and buoy as, to me, they're needless distractions to the landscape. What a wonderful sight! Thanks! I personally don't find the bird a bother, but I certainly understand your comment on the black blob of a buoy. In fact, I thought about exactly that problem both when composing and have several shots more right to simply avoid its presence. Those were less satisfying for compositional reasons.... and the fact that I would have had to photoshop out a rather tall and large American flag which far more annoying than the bouy. But to your point, here was an earlier version I made in color prior to this one with the light house beacon pointed at the camera. Took quite a few shots to time the light, hoping to get a least a faint twinkle of a star. No dice. All I got was a slightly blown highlight. Annoyed me enough in post, given all the front end effort to nail that moment, that out of spite I shopped out the buoys (if you look closely you might see there are actually two in the first photo I posted). Could have photoshopped in a star, of course as well, but I managed to resist that level of corruption. BTW, I also considered in the B&W version moving the bird (right and up) to create an arc from the light house down to the buoy that mirrored the arc of the rocks, but again I managed to resist. Perhaps its old fashioned, but while I'll consider and play around with these things, I have an fairly strong aversion to using PS to correct a scene in this manner and only very rarely cut or move objects in a scene, particularly those, as in this case, that are immovable. Not that I haven't been pushed over the edge occasionally, but typically I just live with the dissonance posed by reality vs desire. Makes it all that more special when you find a way to nail everything. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/275110-m10-serious-landscape-work/?do=findComment&comment=3327551'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted July 31, 2017 Posted July 31, 2017 Hi Tailwagger, Take a look here M10 - Serious Landscape work?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
FlashGordonPhotography Posted August 1, 2017 Share #22 Posted August 1, 2017 Everyone is different. The bird makes the picture for me. The buoy can go. Gordon 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david strachan Posted August 1, 2017 Share #23 Posted August 1, 2017 Nice pic TW...I like the B&W. But it calls out for a bit of dodging on the rocks and surf...it just all looks a bit too grey. Good composition though. cheers... 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyniev Posted August 1, 2017 Share #24 Posted August 1, 2017 (edited) I take plenty of landscapes and several milkyway shots, started with the Canon 5D2 with the 17-40 mm lens,on the tracking mount of my telescopes, then later with the Sony A7R using an adapter with the Canon 17-40 mm, I will try using the CV 15 mm ver III on the M10 and A7R, and shoot the milkyway when I drive to Rigby, ID for the total eclipse, for the eclipse I will use Canon 5D2 and 7D with 100-400 mm and 70-200 mm lenses to shoot the eclipse, the Sony A7R will shoot more wide field and time lapse while the A6000 with take more BTS shoot, a gopro will take video, the Leica may take some eclipse images with the 135 mm. On the M10 I have been shooting panorama handheld, to capture more scenes that the long 50 mm lens restricts, here is an example Single shot, Summarit 50 Panorama 5 images with Summarit 50 on portrait orientaion Edited August 1, 2017 by tonyniev 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyniev Posted August 1, 2017 Share #25 Posted August 1, 2017 I think I will use the 28 and 15 mm for landscapes, here is with CV15 III with Elmarit 28 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bozu_shutterbugger Posted August 3, 2017 Author Share #26 Posted August 3, 2017 Really appreciate everyones thoughts comments and at length explanations, photos etc. I think the conclusion is clear to me now. See why this question rose on me is I wanted to do long exposures of 30 seconds or more and found that there is no way I can turn off the noise reduction thing off. additionally attaching filters is a pain, focusing can resolved using EVF. This tool can be used for long exposure but I think what I am trying to do is stack some of them put polarizer GND all that blah blah I might as well get a cheap mirrorless and slap Leica glass on it. Nevertheless I am very impressed with the photos everyone has posted on this. Jayant & Andy - makes sense I might not shoot beyond 30 seconds anyway else ill get the trails. The rule I follow is, if you are at 21mm don't go over 21 seconds. so the wider I get the faster I need to shoot. ill jump start this thread in October with some photos. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyniev Posted August 3, 2017 Share #27 Posted August 3, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) For filter I tried using CPL and was not happy with focus on the 50mm,will have to be creful. I have used GND by holding the plate filters but I also have a holder also good for ND use. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SrMi Posted August 5, 2017 Share #28 Posted August 5, 2017 ..I might as well get a cheap mirrorless and slap Leica glass on it... Note that without LENR most cameras produce hot pixel noise. Hasselblad X1D is one of few mirrorless camera that does not need LENR to produce high-quality results. Cheap it is not :-). Also, note that some cameras may have problems with LENR (see Star Eater issue on Sony cameras). Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashGordonPhotography Posted August 5, 2017 Share #29 Posted August 5, 2017 Note that without LENR most cameras produce hot pixel noise. Hasselblad X1D is one of few mirrorless camera that does not need LENR to produce high-quality results. Cheap it is not :-). Also, note that some cameras may have problems with LENR (see Star Eater issue on Sony cameras). Yes but it's also possible to do a manual dark frame at the end of a series and do the reduction in Photoshop yourself. Leica don't allow that option. I would also doubt the S sensor would have many issues at base ISO. Gordon Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leetmode Posted August 11, 2017 Share #30 Posted August 11, 2017 Yes but it's also possible to do a manual dark frame at the end of a series and do the reduction in Photoshop yourself. Leica don't allow that option. I would also doubt the S sensor would have many issues at base ISO. Gordon Exactly. I haven't being doing photography for that many years but every camera I've owned has allowed me to turn it off. When taking long exposures, I like to stack 5-10 second exposures to create a really long one but with LENR coming on after every photo taken it ruins my workflow. Even more annoying is that I saw no mention of this anywhere when I bought my Q. I just can't understand why Leica won't give us the option to turn it off if we want to. Allow us to determine if the images are truly unusable with LENR off and if they are a dark frame should be able to correct it. If not, then we know we can't use Leicas for this type of work, but I seriously doubt that is the case. I know its a pretty specific problem to have but its pretty damn important to me and holding me back from wanting to switch my Q for a M10, or any other Leica in the future for that matter, especially since every other camera I'm actually considering allows me to turn off LENR. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdw Posted August 15, 2017 Share #31 Posted August 15, 2017 (edited) Note that without LENR most cameras produce hot pixel noise. Hasselblad X1D is one of few mirrorless camera that does not need LENR to produce high-quality results. Cheap it is not :-). Also, note that some cameras may have problems with LENR (see Star Eater issue on Sony cameras). LENR isn't to blame for star eating on Sony cameras, it's the general noise reduction algorithm they use. It's completely independent of subtracting a black exposure frame, as that's a way to reduce extraneous sensor noise on long exposures. Star eating on the Sonys would happen even if you were to shoot at short exposure times -- it's just part of the way they process every image. Edited August 15, 2017 by sdw 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jip Posted August 15, 2017 Share #32 Posted August 15, 2017 I only ever do none serious landscape work with Leica Ms... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bozu_shutterbugger Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share #33 Posted September 11, 2017 Ok. so to answer my own questions, I found this link, http://tobinators.com/blog/2017/07/techniques/trophy-hunting-in-utah-leica-m10/ Tonnes of good articles on M10 and landscape. Not sure why i got desperate and purchased a canon kit. I guess its hard to believe for someone in experienced like myself that Leica can beat the crap out of DSLR's & Mirrorless in most situations.. anyway, Enjoy the link Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgacpa Posted September 12, 2017 Share #34 Posted September 12, 2017 I use my M10 for "serious landscape work". The combination of compact size and amazing lenses is very effective. You might want to look here for a write up I did recently on landscaping with my M10. For astrophotography, here's two from last weekend in Utah when I was out "trophy hunting". I would imagine that some other cameras would do astro work better (less noise at higher ISOs) but I was quite happy with how the M10 performed. I'm using a 24 Summilux, at f/2 for both of these, with a shutter speed of 15-20 sec to reduce the likelihood of elongated stars. Some post processing work to get the stars to brighten up, but not too much. Great fun though! Delicate Arch - 16 sec f/2 ISO 3200 Balanced Rock - 18 sec f/2 ISO 1600 Andy I'm a bit confused Andy. The base ISO for the M10 is 200 I believe. Per my understanding the maximum exposure length is 60s. For each doubling of the ISO, the max exposure length is reduced by 1/2. Therefore, ISO 400 has a max exposure time of 30s, 800 ISO = 15s, 1600 ISO and above = 8s. So how did you do a 16sec exposure at 3200iso and an 18s exposure at ISO 1600? Or has this changed with the M10? See http://en.leica-camera.com/layout/set/simplified/Photography/Leica-M/Frequently-asked-questions Thanks, Bob Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobers Posted September 12, 2017 Share #35 Posted September 12, 2017 (edited) I'm a bit confused Andy. The base ISO for the M10 is 200 I believe. Per my understanding the maximum exposure length is 60s. For each doubling of the ISO, the max exposure length is reduced by 1/2. Therefore, ISO 400 has a max exposure time of 30s, 800 ISO = 15s, 1600 ISO and above = 8s. So how did you do a 16sec exposure at 3200iso and an 18s exposure at ISO 1600? Or has this changed with the M10? See http://en.leica-camera.com/layout/set/simplified/Photography/Leica-M/Frequently-asked-questions Hi Bob. lowest ISO is 100 on the M10. Your question caused me to question my own sanity! So I just grabbed my M10, put it in Bulb with a lockable cable release, set the ISO to 1600, and released the shutter. The shutter remained open for 32 seconds before closing itself (without me unlocking the cable release). At ISO 3200, I did the same and the shutter stayed open for 16 sec before closing itself. At ISO 6400, same thing and the shutter stayed open for 8 sec before closing itself. Just for thoroughness, I did the same at ISO 100 and the shutter stayed open for 125 sec. So there you have it. I'm not mad after all. Edited September 12, 2017 by Tobers 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
onasj Posted September 12, 2017 Share #36 Posted September 12, 2017 Not sure if this qualifies as "serious landscape photography " but I snapped this using the 28 lux from the side of a road. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/275110-m10-serious-landscape-work/?do=findComment&comment=3357667'>More sharing options...
sillbeers15 Posted September 28, 2017 Share #37 Posted September 28, 2017 And here is one showing more of the Milky Way, captured a week or so ago, from Edgartown, MA. This lighthouse it's possible to get close to from any side, so I was able to position the Milky Way where I wanted. Again, 21mm Summilux at f/1.4. JSW2017459-Edit-Edit.jpg Nice shot. What would you say is the biggest challenge to capture the Milky Way apart from low light density environment? The sky had to be completely free of clouds? Using an iPhone app to locate the position of the Milky Way and pointed my eyes to it, can it be visible to the naked eye? Or only the appropriate exposure by the camera will capture it on sensor but not visible to the naked eye? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmahto Posted September 28, 2017 Share #38 Posted September 28, 2017 Nice shot. What would you say is the biggest challenge to capture the Milky Way apart from low light density environment? The sky had to be completely free of clouds? Using an iPhone app to locate the position of the Milky Way and pointed my eyes to it, can it be visible to the naked eye? Or only the appropriate exposure by the camera will capture it on sensor but not visible to the naked eye? If you don't have light pollution then you can't miss milky eye. It is big covering a good portion of sky and is beautiful. You don't necessarily need an app to locate it but you will need to know what time in what month it will be visible from your location. If you can't see it with naked eye (light pollution) then camera also won't be able to capture it. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
albertknappmd Posted September 28, 2017 Share #39 Posted September 28, 2017 here are some landscapes with M10.. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/275110-m10-serious-landscape-work/?do=findComment&comment=3366824'>More sharing options...
albertknappmd Posted September 28, 2017 Share #40 Posted September 28, 2017 another... Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/275110-m10-serious-landscape-work/?do=findComment&comment=3366827'>More sharing options...
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