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[ECohen]

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Ahhh, I didn't realise the focus patch was set at 2m. 2m is borderline for me as I use reading glasses.

 

the correct diopter changer everything for me.

 

this forum was a big help in diagnosing the strength I needed

And in helping me find the obscure +4

A special thank to you guys!!

[jaapv]

Ahhh, I didn't realise the focus patch was set at 2m. 2m is borderline for me as I use reading glasses.

Not only that, but the view in the finder itself is at whatever distance your subject is at, so the eye must be able to accomodate both distances.

The -0.5 diopter "brings the distances together" so to speak, by modifying the view to an average middle distance for the ideal eye.

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[Jeff S]

Diopter strength can be determined by taking your camera to a local optician and placing their trial diopters over the VF. Better than guessing at the math for non-experts.

 

I prefer to use glasses, which require correction for distance and astigmatism (and sunglasses for light sensitivity), so this gets attention first.

 

Jeff

Edited July 12, 2017 by Jeff S

[jaapv]

Diopter strength can be determined by taking your camera to a local optician and placing their trial diopters over the VF. Better than guessing at the math for non-experts.

 

I prefer to use glasses, which require correction for distance and astigmatism (and sunglasses for light sensitivity), so this gets attention first).

 

Jeff

Emphasis for this advice!

[Jeff S]

Ahhh, I didn't realise the focus patch was set at 2m. 2m is borderline for me as I use reading glasses.

The frame lines, too.

 

Ideally of course, one wants to be able to clearly see the the focus patch / frame lines as well as subjects at varying distances, with the least complication using glasses and/or diopter.

 

Jeff

[Robert M Poole]

I can't wait to get home and try the finger wiggle.

[PaulJohn]

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Just ordered a used mp 240 which will arrive on Friday. Thank you to all for steering me towards the sensible choice.

Paul

[Jon Warwick]

I do have to add, however, that it is taking me some time to adjust to the different look of the images I have taken with the M10. Or, more accurately, it has taken me some time to learn how to adjust those images in post-production to make me happy with them as I have been ever-so-happy with my M-P 240 images.

 

The M-P 240 images I took on the trip have come out as I am used to them looking and it has been quick & easy tweaking them in post-production. Still experimenting with the M10 look, however, and I spend much more time getting them up to speed to my (near) satisfaction.

 

 

Out of interest, how do you see the differences in look between the M10 and M240, and what type of post processing are you doing to personally start getting towards a look that you like with the M10?

[ECohen]

Just ordered a used mp 240 which will arrive on Friday. Thank you to all for steering me towards the sensible choice.

Paul

Congrats !!

Enjoy

[jmahto]

Just ordered a used mp 240 which will arrive on Friday. Thank you to all for steering me towards the sensible choice.

Paul

For me the image quality is sufficient from M240's sensor and it is much cheaper than M10. Sensible choice indeed.... and there are pluses (over M10) like long battery life, mature firmware and video.

[jdlaing]

Just ordered a used mp 240 which will arrive on Friday. Thank you to all for steering me towards the sensible choice.

Paul

A wise decision.

[ECohen]

 Sensible choice indeed....

 

Yes.... I agree! Leica is a very sensible camera

[jmahto]

Yes.... I agree! Leica is a very sensible camera

Absolutely... the following definition from web uses words like "wisdom", "spend so much", "decorative". I am sensibly cherry picking and ignoring the rest, of course.

 

sen·si·ble

ˈsensəb(ə)l/

adjective

adjective: sensible

1. 1.

   (of a statement or course of action) chosen in accordance with wisdom or prudence; likely to be of benefit.

   "I cannot believe that it is sensible to spend so much"

   synonyms: practical, realistic, responsible, reasonable, commonsensical, rational, logical, sound, balanced, grounded, sober, no-nonsense, pragmatic, levelheaded, thoughtful, down-to-earth, wise, prudent, judicious, sagacious, shrewd

   "isn't this the sensible thing to do?"

   antonyms: foolish

   • (of a person) possessing or displaying prudence.

     "he was a sensible and capable boy"

     synonyms: practical, realistic, responsible, reasonable, commonsensical, rational, logical, sound, balanced, grounded, sober, no-nonsense, pragmatic, levelheaded, thoughtful, down-to-earth, wise, prudent, judicious, sagacious, shrewd

     "isn't this the sensible thing to do?"

     antonyms: foolish
   • (of an object) practical and functional rather than decorative.

     "Mom always made me have sensible shoes"

     synonyms: practical, realistic, responsible, reasonable, commonsensical, rational, logical, sound, balanced, grounded, sober, no-nonsense, pragmatic, levelheaded, thoughtful, down-to-earth, wise, prudent, judicious, sagacious, shrewd

     "isn't this the sensible thing to do?"

     antonyms: foolish
2. 2.

   archaic

   readily perceived; appreciable.

   "it will effect a sensible reduction in these figures"

[coupdefoudre]

Just ordered a used mp 240 which will arrive on Friday. Thank you to all for steering me towards the sensible choice.

Paul

 

Good move! I notice you mentioned you have an Elmarit-M 28mm. I find it such a great lens for taking in the environment around my street subjects - IF you get really close!

[coupdefoudre]

Out of interest, how do you see the differences in look between the M10 and M240, and what type of post processing are you doing to personally start getting towards a look that you like with the M10?

 

I haven't fully thought out or articulated the difference so I guess I can start here!

 

Colors from my M-P 240 appear to be more lively and bright than ones from my M10, where they are somewhat more muted - perhaps 'austere' is a better word. This, then, begs the question of which represents the actual scene more correctly. I think the answer to this might well be: the M10. My brain is still mulling this.

 

Metering in my M10 is different. Maybe this is because of the reputed two extra stops the sensor provides and I am so used to using the M-P240 in a wide variety of conditions. On a recent trip I found myself often over- or under-metering in the regular Classic Center-Weighted mode. Usually 'under' with the photos needing to be 'lifted' quite a bit. When I did over expose it was usually very badly over. Reminds me of the over-exposure I sometimes do on the M246 Monochrom. A definite No-No! Always better to under expose on these cameras.

 

The M240, as most know, had/has a magenta issue. For me it is often difficult to impossible to get totally rid of in post as I am no expert in LR or Photoshop. From this problem the M10 is, mercifully, free. But, I am having issues with a faint green tinge often showing itself in photos. Maybe it's my monitor (yes, I have a shield) or my room lights. This remains to be investigated and resolved.

 

Somewhere on this forum O1af (and others) put up a suggestion of where one might start in the LR Develop Module for tweaking M10 photos. I have found it is quite good starting point on many pictures:

 

Camera Calibration:

 

Red Primary

Hue  +10

Saturation   -5

 

 

Green Primary

leave as is (tho I do not on many images because of the above-mentioned tinge)

 

Blue Primary

Hue  -5

Saturation   -15

 

All the above experience, I must add, was garnered in May and early June in the Himalaya at high desert altitude and while shooting lots of Buddhist dances and monasteries. There are lots of reds & yellows in these situations with brown and grey desert. Also, the altitude means there was a good saturation of blue, too. So.... my experience may well change in the more mundane world of 6,000 to 8,000 feet where I live.

 

More, maybe, later as I learn more!

[jaapv]

Magenta-green. That made me think.

  The M240 has an occasional magenta  cast because of residual IR sensitivity - a filter will cure it BTW- ; correcting magenta on blacks will create a green cast in the rest of the image, so my conclusion is that Leica's engineers have been twiddling the white balance for the same IR sensitivity that all digital Ms have in varying degrees.

[coupdefoudre]

Magenta-green. That made me think.

  The M240 has an occasional magenta  cast because of residual IR sensitivity - a filter will cure it BTW- ; correcting magenta on blacks will create a green cast in the rest of the image, so my conclusion is that Leica's engineers have been twiddling the white balance for the same IR sensitivity that all digital Ms have in varying degrees.

Thanks jaapv!

 

I did not realize the magenta issue was one of residual IR sensitivity.

 

Interesting thought on the green cast! 

 

There is always so much for me to learn after all these years. Thanks to the Forum, I am!

Edited July 12, 2017 by coupdefoudre

[jaapv]

It filters about 70% of IR, against the M8 50% and the M9 80%.

[FeralCoton]

I did a workshop with mark de Paola. He shoots wide open with a noctilux. It is fun if you try to care less about the focus and work not the technique of wide open and minimum focus and move yourself accordingly. This doesn't solve your problem exactly, but is a cool technique to explore.

 

 

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[PaulJohn]

Good move! I notice you mentioned you have an Elmarit-M 28mm. I find it such a great lens for taking in the environment around my street subjects - IF you get really close!

 

 

Had it, sold it, regretted it and bought it again!