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So, I sold my M-P 240 and now have regrets. Why did I do that? Mostly because I wasn't very good at focusing my 50 lux wide open. I've thought about buying the same camera on the used market but life is too short to go backwards. Now I am considering the M262, the M10 and especially the M-D. The M10 involves a wait so I am thinking M-D now then possibly M-P 10 in 2018.

 

My worry is that the M-D will massively decrease my keeper rate due to exposure errors. I will shoot less wide open shots and probably limit myself to f2.4 for close subjects. My technique with the 240 was to check for blinkies after each shot and adjust exposure compensation accordingly. I also shoot film but unlike digital, film is very good at preserving the highlights.

 

M-D owners, how has your skill in judging exposure compensation improved? I expect I will be able to learn how to use centre weighted metering better with the M-D. Does the exif include exposure compensation data? Do you bracket exposure or bracket focus because you can't check the results? Do you compromise on aperture to increase your hit rate?

 

I hear the M10 is easier to focus with the RF. How much of an improvement is this? I.e. Change to hit rate at 50/1.4?

 

I am partly put off the 262 by the red dot and like the M-D much more aesthetically. I suspect I just need a gentle push in the M-D direction to make my mind up. Anyone buy it and regret it?

 

Thanks in advance for your help

Paul

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You said your main problem was focusing the 50/1.4 wide open.  If the problem was a miscalibrated rangefinder, then another body (not necessarily a different model) may solve it.  If the problem was your eyesight, or the lens' calibration, then a different body won't change anything.  Short of a diopter and/or recalibration of the lens, the only way to circumvent the focusing problem would be to use Live View/EVF, which IIRC the M-D does not permit. 

 

As to exposure, I assume you're talking about the lack of a histogram?  We never had those with the metered film M's, and after decades of experience with those I can say I have never used the histogram on any digital M, in fact I have review turned off.  Experience is the best teacher with the M metering. 

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Having an LCD makes it easy to check weather you got what your looking for.
To me the MD is a step backward in technology.
But lets not argue that point. I completely understand the MD appeal....really I do.
 
If you had trouble focusing the MP...... why get an  MD?
 

Go for a Q or an SL ......even a T2

 

Take the easy way and enjoy photography, there is nothing wrong with that.

 

If you miss your MP and still have a bunch of M lenses ......buy the 10

Edited by ECohen
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I really enjoy my M glass on my SL (no autofocus, but the SL EVF is fantastic). I have no SL lenses. Also have Q and it is great, but sometimes picks the wrong focus location (as all autofocus cameras do sometimes), but much faster and easier than manual focus for me, if not relying on zone (no) focus (which is not feasible at 1.4 anyways)....

Regards,

Bob

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If you had trouble focusing the MP...... why get an  MD?

 

 

Good question. I've recently learned about the wiggle finger technique (over the RF window) and tried it on my film MP and it works a treat. I now believe my focusing technique on wide apertures will be more accurate.

 

Paul

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teach me .......please

the "wiggle finger technique" ....I don't believe I've heard of that ?

 

I'd still get the M10 its thinner and has the insurance of an LCD

or re-buy the MP as the current prices are great

 

I just think the MD is such a small market and if you don't want to look at an LCD ...turn it off.

Photography is hard enough why not  have insurance

........its the same price and resale is better with the screen....isnt it?

 

I'll get off my soap box now ......please explain the wiggle finger technique

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My advice, which I hope you will read ...

 

Get another M-P 240 and have your need for a dioptre checked at your local Leica dealer.

Also please remember that you don't have to take every shot wide open. There is an aperture ring on the lens!

If you want bokeh then open up, if you don't need it then stop down.

 

Great photos can be taken at f/16. :)

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Getting another M that has live view will help you to check RF/lens calibration, which is critical to fine M focusing. Equally important is making sure your eyes are properly corrected to clearly see the focus patch, which is set to a virtual distance of 2m. This includes correction for any astigmatism. A magnifier will magnify any problems. Diopters, if needed, can be sampled for free at your local optician. And even with your wiggle thing, be sure that your eye is on axis to avoid false readings.

 

I can attest that the M10 VF is better than the M240, especially for eyeglass wearers (me), with a bigger opening, better eye relief and greater magnification. A treat.

 

Jeff'

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You said your main problem was focusing the 50/1.4 wide open.  If the problem was a miscalibrated rangefinder, then another body (not necessarily a different model) may solve it.  If the problem was your eyesight, or the lens' calibration, then a different body won't change anything.  Short of a diopter and/or recalibration of the lens, the only way to circumvent the focusing problem would be to use Live View/EVF, which IIRC the M-D does not permit. 

 

As to exposure, I assume you're talking about the lack of a histogram?  We never had those with the metered film M's, and after decades of experience with those I can say I have never used the histogram on any digital M, in fact I have review turned off.  Experience is the best teacher with the M metering. 

Actually the 50/1.4 asph is infamous for needing adjustment by Leica CS.

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I've had the M10 for about a month and have taken 6000+ photos with it on a trip to the Himalaya.

 

BUT! The M10 arrived the day before I left for the trip so I packed both the new camera and my trusty M-P 240 (also an M246, but that is irrelevant here.)

 

I can safely say that the report of a better viewfinder is true. I took 6 lenses, among them the 50 Lux & a 75 APO Cron and there really is a NOTICEABLE improvement in ease of focusing. Made me a happy camper (literally). I love the camera, especially the on-the-spot ease of switching ISO and, by leaving the ISO knob up in the air I know to move it back when done with whatever made me have to change it in the first place. The auto-reading of the 6-Bit codes is also a god-send as I never remembered to use the manual codes when I put on the couple non-6-Bit lenses I have.

 

I do have to add, however, that it is taking me some time to adjust to the different look of the images I have taken with the M10. Or, more accurately, it has taken me some time to learn how to adjust those images in post-production to make me happy with them as I have been ever-so-happy with my M-P 240 images.

 

The M-P 240 images I took on the trip have come out as I am used to them looking and it has been quick & easy tweaking them in post-production. Still experimenting with the M10 look, however, and I spend much more time getting them up to speed to my (near) satisfaction.

 

I tend to leave the LCD screen covered by my half-case but cannot imagine I would be happy with a digital Leica w/o the screen for those times (maybe 1 shot in 50) when it and a histogram are good insurance.

Edited by coupdefoudre
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Summilux-M 1.4/50 Asph. I had one but now replaced by older non-asph.

With the Asph. when the focussing WO it was not really spot on all the time.

Maybe something from the floating element and short throw focus.

 

M10 has the best viewfinder so far, looking and focussing through this finder is a pleasure.

Great eye relief and magnification are something to try in real life :) .

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Many just need adjustment to alleviate tight or sticky focus action.

 

Jeff

That too. Mine needed an extended holiday in Solms from new. 5 cm off at 1 m. Afterwards it was easy to focus, spot-on and as smooth as a baby's bottom.

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Getting another M that has live view will help you to check RF/lens calibration, which is critical to fine M focusing. Equally important is making sure your eyes are properly corrected to clearly see the focus patch, which is set to a virtual distance of 2m. This includes correction for any astigmatism. A magnifier will magnify any problems. Diopters, if needed, can be sampled for free at your local optician. And even with your wiggle thing, be sure that your eye is on axis to avoid false readings.

 

I can attest that the M10 VF is better than the M240, especially for eyeglass wearers (me), with a bigger opening, better eye relief and greater magnification. A treat.

 

Jeff'

 

 

Ahhh, I didn't realise the focus patch was set at 2m. 2m is borderline for me as I use reading glasses.

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M-D will just make matters worse for you. Have you thought about the Q? On my summilux I do see that my shot is not perfectly in focus via range finder at infinity but it ends up being in focus

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thanks but I've had the Q. Sold it and don't miss it even though I like 28mm. Rather have an M for my elmarit 28.

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My advice, which I hope you will read ...

 

Get another M-P 240 and have your need for a dioptre checked at your local Leica dealer.

Also please remember that you don't have to take every shot wide open. There is an aperture ring on the lens!

If you want bokeh then open up, if you don't need it then stop down.

 

Great photos can be taken at f/16. :)

 

Yes thanks I will get dioptre checked.

 

Most of my shots are f5.6-f8, it's around f2.8 that I neglect.

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