New to film- a few questions

[Csacwp]

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I'm starting to shoot b&w film on an M4. I bought a Sekonic digital light meter that tells you what aperture to use for your given shutter speed. Unfortunately it doesn't have an aperture priority mode, which I would have found far more useful. It does have a mode where it gives EV numbers. Would it be wise for me to use that and keep an EV chart on me while out shooting? I suppose I could memorize the chart.

 

Another question about the M4 specifically. Do I simply turn the shutter speed dial to change speeds, or is there a special order or procedure I must follow in order to not damage things. I used to own a Leica III and the shutter spees dial was more finicky on that.

 

A final question- what negative scanner would produce high resolution for art prints (A2 or A3 size)?

[pico]

Please tell us which Sekonic model you have.

 

On any M, you can change the shutter speed at any time. No need to wind first.

Edited July 8, 2017 by pico

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[earleygallery]

There is no aperture priority mode!

 

The meter gives you a reading and you set whatever combination of shutter speed/aperture you want to. If you change the aperture one stop wider you change the speed one stop faster etc.

 

Unlike the Barnack models you can change the M shutter speed whether the shutter is cocked or uncocked.

[Csacwp]

I have this model:

http://www.sekonic.com/united-states/products/l-308s-u/overview.aspx

 

It lets you change the shutter speed and then tells you what aperture, but you can't do it the other way around.

[Daniel Beacock]

Just take an initial reading and then use the up and down buttons on the right hand side to change to the aperture you want, and read off the shutter speed. Simple as that! Definitely no need for memorising charts!

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[gnuyork]

Are you looking for a new scanner? I think the only game in town now is Plustek (I could be wrong).  I use a Minolta Dimage 5400 and it's good for very large prints from 35mm scans.

 

The print on the bottom is nearly 4 feet wide if I recall. Both scanned from either Kodachrome or Ektachrome.

 

 

 

 

[pico]

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I have this model:

http://www.sekonic.com/united-states/products/l-308s-u/overview.aspx

 

It lets you change the shutter speed and then tells you what aperture, but you can't do it the other way around.

 

Please consult your manual. You can certainly have shutter priority.

.

[gnuyork]

Please consult your manual. You can certainly have shutter priority.

.

I believe there is no Aperture priority with Sekonic (which is what the OP wanted). If you want that I think it's Gossen, I don't find it to be an issue with Sekonik though. Just take a reading and move the dials until you get the desired aperture.

Edited July 9, 2017 by gnuyork

[Csacwp]

It's slower to do it that way, but I think it's the only way it'll work.  I used to have a Voightlander meter that sat in the camera shoe that functioned in aperture priority, but I've found the Sekonic meter to be more accurate.

 

I've read a lot of bad reviews of the Plustonic scanners.  They seem to break frequently.  Are there any other options, or should I look into sending negatives off to have the drum scanned?  If so, how can I few the negatives before hand to pick which ones to send off?  I'm starting to think it may be cheaper to have them all printed in small sizes in order to see what I've got, and pick a few to have scanned or printed afterwards.  I will be developing the film on my own so I can save some money there.  

[spydrxx]

Viewing the negatives (not prints) isn't hard at all. Take your camera lens off the camera, reverse it, open the diaphragm, and use it like a big magnifier to inspect the negatives. I use an old  old scanner to put mine on the pc to evaluate in general terms before making a decision to have them professionally printed (I still have a darkroom & equipment, but rarely use it anymore).

[pico]

Another handy negative viewing aid is one that takes a strip of negatives which

can be pushed past a 5X or 10X magnifier, and if a negative is promising, it can

punch a little notch on the edge by the selected. Darkroom techs like this.

 

Search Google for "Leitz NATRA"

 

There are just as capable Russian and Soviet copies for a fraction of the Leitz price.

 

I used these in editorial photography and still use them today for 35mm.

[gnuyork]

 

I've read a lot of bad reviews of the Plustonic scanners.  They seem to break frequently.  Are there any other options, or should I look into sending negatives off to have the drum scanned?  If so, how can I few the negatives before hand to pick which ones to send off?  I'm starting to think it may be cheaper to have them all printed in small sizes in order to see what I've got, and pick a few to have scanned or printed afterwards.  I will be developing the film on my own so I can save some money there.  

If you are willing to invest in having everything printed just so you could see the images, you might consider at least a flatbed scanner and even lay the whole page of negatives on and make a virtual contact sheet or even slightly larger scans just to see what you have. Then outsource the good ones.

 

Or find a deal on a used Nikon coolscan or Minolta DiMage like i did. The bundled software is ancient, but Vuescan works wonders even with old scanners. I also have Silverfast that came bundled with my flatbed scanner, but it's licensed to only work with the Epson unfortunately. But Vuescan works great anyway and a LOT less expensive than Silver Fast. Plus Vuescan works with all scanners for one license fee, and it's regularly updated (almost too much really).