Anyone shooting Large Format on here apart from me?

[pico]

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Pico

Ive just been offered a Unicolor roller with cibachrome 8x10 tubes................any feedback on the 8x10 cibachrome tubes??

 

Cibachrome drums are just fine, especially for 8x10. (I use Unicolor 8x10 for 4 sheets of 4x5) Just be sure to place the film with emulsion facing inward, toward the center.

Edited July 7, 2017 by pico

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

Okay things move fast here

Just bought a Beseler roller and Unicolor 8x10 drum.................happy man

 

Neil

Edited July 7, 2017 by NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

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[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

What about Chemicals..................I'm hearing anything from 125ml to 500ml

Also what is the process for washing, Im thinking say 6 minutes DEV 1 minute STOP 5 minutes FIX then open up the drum and run the tap in to wash for 10 minutes............does that sound about right??

 

Neil

 

Cibachrome drums are just fine, especially for 8x10. (I use Unicolor 8x10 for 4 sheets of 4x5) Just be sure to place the film with emulsion facing inward, toward the center.

[Doug A]

I've shot a few 4x5 negatives with a Harman Titan pinhole camera and developed them in an SP-445 tank. Nothing I like to show for it so far.

 

My vision is so bad that focusing on a ground glass is out of the question. The only way, other than a pinhole, that I could shoot LF is with a rangefinder. And my LTM Leicas are just so much easier.

[pico]

My vision is so bad that focusing on a ground glass is out of the question. The only way, other than a pinhole, that I could shoot LF is with a rangefinder. And my LTM Leicas are just so much easier.

 

You have not lived until you have done large format, or at least 6x9cm medium format.

 

I hope your vision is no worse than mine. Look to a Linhof Super Technika with the added viewfinder. If you use perspective controls then first use rangefinder focus, pop the back open and make small adjustments. A lot of LF users would admit they use minimal, trivial perspective controls. Be happy.

 

Oh, if you like wide-angle look into Silvestri cameras. There are more simple options for MF.

.

Edited July 7, 2017 by pico

[mikemgb]

I've shot a few 4x5 negatives with a Harman Titan pinhole camera and developed them in an SP-445 tank. Nothing I like to show for it so far.

 

My vision is so bad that focusing on a ground glass is out of the question. The only way, other than a pinhole, that I could shoot LF is with a rangefinder. And my LTM Leicas are just so much easier.

 

I shoot buildings and landscapes with a 6x9 folder with front rise, I have yet to take the lens off infinity. I use the ground glass for composition and front movements only. If I was shooting portraits I would obviously have to focus but I don't, so no problem.

[250swb]

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Took me a while to get used to is - made the big mistake first to shake the tank with 4 negatives in there too much that they came off the holders and stuck to the wall......total loss of otherwise good shots. Since then I always agitate by using the agitator piece and rotate the insert only - never shake the tank! 

 

I also use the big 1 liter tank for development of three 35 mm films at once if needed which is very convenient. 

Inverting or shaking the tank is of course the big problem with the MOD54, and as you say we get around it by only rotating the Paterson twiddle stick. But the problem with not giving full 'top to bottom' agitation is that it limits the types of developers, from fast acting types where you'd want quick and even coverage, to the excellent for large format semi-stand developers where exhausted developer settles towards the bottom of the tank and so giving uneven development. Rotary tanks also limit the use of all the best developers and developing techniques for large format but they are very easy to use with D-76 etc.

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

Ive used the MOD54 3 times now and never seen the film messed up...............and I do all the inverting and shaking and all that kind of stuff. Strange

 

Neil

[otto.f]

Yes I bought a Linhof 4*5 Kardan Color last year and prepared my studio for it for next year when I partially retire. No chemicals yet. Intend to scan from color negative developed by lab, to start with

Edited July 8, 2017 by otto.f

[Martin B]

Inverting or shaking the tank is of course the big problem with the MOD54, and as you say we get around it by only rotating the Paterson twiddle stick. But the problem with not giving full 'top to bottom' agitation is that it limits the types of developers, from fast acting types where you'd want quick and even coverage, to the excellent for large format semi-stand developers where exhausted developer settles towards the bottom of the tank and so giving uneven development. Rotary tanks also limit the use of all the best developers and developing techniques for large format but they are very easy to use with D-76 etc.

 

So far I have no problem to use the tank with MOD54 and Rodinal developer in 1:50 dilution. I never tried stand development not even for my 35 mm films. Always agitate every minute with very good results. 

[Keith (M)]

Had an email from APUG today saying there was a special offer arranged with MOD54.  

The complete kit of MOD54 MK27 and the Paterson 3 Reel tank. £61 inc shipping

 

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

Had an email from APUG today saying there was a special offer arranged with MOD54.

i got the same email but already have it and love it

Neil

[otto.f]

Yes I bought a Linhof 4*5 Kardan Color last year and prepared my studio for it for next year when I partially retire. No chemicals yet. Intend to scan from color negative developed by lab, to start with

Except that I develop B&W myself and use a JOBO drum without much trouble. The critical point in LF is even development of that large negatives. Do you guys work easier with the MOD54 than the JOBO in that respect?

[pico]

I was liberated after accepting drum processing for large format. With 35mm I had problems with tank development especially with large, for example 8 roll tanks. For large format I did use various rectangular tanks with good results, but agitation variability was an issue.

 

Now using constant agitation for 4x5 and sometimes 8x10 I have zero issues. My developer is always Rodinal 1:25 or 1:50. I'm a happy guy developer now.

 

Have not yet tried constant rotation for roll film.

Edited July 9, 2017 by pico

[otto.f]

I was liberated after accepting drum processing for large format. With 35mm I had problems with tank development especially with large, for example 8 roll tanks. For large format I did use various rectangular tanks with good results, but agitation variability was an issue.

 

Now using constant agitation for 4x5 and sometimes 8x10 I have zero issues. My developer is always Rodinal 1:25 or 1:50. I'm a happy guy developer now.

 

Have not yet tried constant rotation for roll film.

Do you develop a few minutes less with constant agitation? I work with HC110 B for Tri-X

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

Listening to the guys over on the APOG forum they reduce the time by 15% when using constant agitation

 

Do you develop a few minutes less with constant agitation? I work with HC110 B for Tri-X

[otto.f]

That is very essential info to prevent fogged negatives then, thanks pico and Neil!

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

When I get home I will sacrifice 4 sheets of 4x5 and do some testing with times;

Box

5%

10%

And 15%

I'm going to get the Chamonix 4x5 to replace my Wisner Technical as I want to use the Wisner as an ornament in my home in Phuket (it's very pretty but heavy)

And will use the Chamonix as a travel [emoji327]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[otto.f]

How peculiar: I just received a mail from Sean of APUG, about that MOD54, is Sean ubiquitous or do I receive a general mail from APUG just a bit later than you did?

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[tllabron]

You have not lived until you have done large format, or at least 6x9cm medium format.

 

I hope your vision is no worse than mine. Look to a Linhof Super Technika with the added viewfinder. If you use perspective controls then first use rangefinder focus, pop the back open and make small adjustments. A lot of LF users would admit they use minimal, trivial perspective controls. Be happy.

 

Oh, if you like wide-angle look into Silvestri cameras. There are more simple options for MF.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I loved my Linhof Master Technika camera.  I carried it once into the mountains to the head waters (beginning waters)  of the Colorado River here in the USA,  I got stunning pictures.  That is when I was younger and could pack the 17 pound Gitzo tripod and my Linhof and 3 lenses with plates and 2 - 6X7 roll backs up the trail. 

Someone asked earlier about changing film in the field and I had with my a fairly lightweight darkbag that I carried along with me and some boxes of film so if I shot all my film I could reload the plate holders.  Years and years ago there were always a variety of darkbags available, but now-a-days you probably could only get one if you knew someone that had one and could talk them out of it.  You just have to have a sensitive touch to mark your film box and your storage box to remember which is which when you are performing the job.  Just don't do it in a hurry at the last minute when you need it yesterday, because you may make a mistake you will regret. 

I used my Linhof when I was in Iceland and took pictures of the waterfalls and geysers and the beautiful landscapes and the icelandic horse.  The only place I did not take my Linhof Master Technika was on my African Safari.  The longest lens I had for my LF was 275mm f/5.6 Rotlar Rodenstock lens so I left it on board ship and took only my two Leica SL bodies and my lenses that included a 400mm Telyt 6.8 lens, which was on my cameras most of the time.  Although I did wish I had the Linhof when were arrived at Mount Kilimanjaro National Park and I was not able to record on 4X5 a shot of the mountain and the plain.  I was beautiful.

There also was some discussions about drums.  I had a Beseler motorized base with variable rotation control and a 8X10 Drum and a 16X20 drum for developing prints and also developing my 4X5 negatives and slides.  You must be sure to rotate the drums slow enough as to make sure the fluids are contact with the film but fast enough to give you good developments times.  A way of finding this technique out is to develop TRI-X film at different speeds.  The faster the speeds the courser the grain is the slower the speed the finer the grain is the result.  I have to admit that I have no idea if this is what will happen with the newer emulsions being used today beccause I have not developed film in very long time, so take these suggestions with a grain of salt.

Tom L.L.