My rangefinder just went off....

[adan]

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For some reason my M10 rangefinder is suddenly "off" by about a frameline-width at all distances, with all lenses. Using the RF, pictures are front-focused in all cases. Not aware of any impact that would have caused this.

 

To rule out some of the usual suspects: Using live view, all lenses focus correctly (and obviously the pictures also are correctly focused). Setting any lens to infinity via the lens focus scale, distance objects are sharp. Using the RF to focus on "infinite" objects, the actual point of focus is at about 12 meters/36 feet. If I focus close at 0.7 meters with live view, the RF patch is telling me I am focused about 2cm beyond that. If I focus at 0.7 meters with the RF, the actual focus (in live view or the final picture) is about 2 cm in front of where the RF focused. Pretty linear response at mid distances (e.g. focused at 15m with the RF, actual focus point is at 12 meters.)

 

The amount of defocus blur in a given object (proportional to picture dimensions), with same lens and aperture, is the same whether at infinity or at 0.7 meters or in-between.

 

Question 1. Is this type of linear, all-distance problem something that can be fixed by a simple, one-step tweak of the RF roller via a hex key? I.E. adjusting infinity focus to be correct should solve everything else?

 

If so, I might try to do that myself. If it will require fiddling with both roller eccentric AND shaft eccentric, back and forth - I'll send it to Leica, if only to preserve the warranty.

 

Unfortunately I was just about to send in my M9 backup camera for checking for corrosion and sensor replacement if needed. But now I may need the M9, if the M10 has to go to Leica for RF adjustment! Since I have about 5 weeks to send in the M9 under Leica's "sensor deadline," I have to figure out what to do now, thus:

 

Question 2: Send in M10 now, use the M9, and hope M10 is repaired/adjusted and returned before time runs out on the free M9 service? Or send both Leicas in and pick up a couple of cheapish used Canon EOS lenses (24/85 or 20/135 or 20-35+135) for my 6D while "Leicaless?" Or get an EVF 020 (about the same price as two Canon lenses), send in the M9 now, and shoot the M10 strictly in EVF mode until the M9 comes back, and then send the M10 in?

[a.noctilux]

Andy, this is not good news for us M10 owners.

 

Sorry that thing arrives in the wrong timing for you.

 

As for me, another M long time ago, after motorcycle trips my M8 had that focus "shift" so I learned the hard way to use 2mm hex to adjust "in field".

Beside M8, I never had to use "2mm hex adjust" after that, it seems Leica sorted out the problem.

 

In your short timing, I'd adopt Visoflex 020 for M10, send now M9 as your last "solution".

 

Anyway, I think that the Visoflex 020 is useful with M10 to use it as almost SLR.

Progress in blackout (it's always there about 1/2 second) and focus peaking is efficient.

In my experience, M10 + Visoflex 020, even deep of field is visible (not the case with M 240 + EVF).

 

Arnaud

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[FlashGordonPhotography]

Highly likely you can do a simple roller cam adjustment yourself. It certainly won't hurt. 2 mm Allen key. You'll need three targets. Minimum, mid and infinity. Anything over a kilometer should be fine. Mid about 5-10 meters.

 

Personally I use the mid for the calibrating and the other two just to check. YMMV.

 

Tiny tiny increments only and you'll go back and forward a bit until you get it right. patience is the key.

 

Gordon

[Jeff S]

Maybe another option is to have the dealer who sold you the M provide a loaner camera (an M of some sort) while it's away.

 

Jeff

[adan]

Thanks for suggestions - Jeff, my dealer doesn't regularly stock digital Ms. I think he maybe has a Monochrom 246 on consignment (not his to loan out), four M3s in various states of "userdom," and maybe an M6 Classic. Not really in a place where film M's would help (I need the ISO 10000 for some current projects, and grainless 200 for others - both in color.)

 

But I'll check Monday - he has a couple of M10 sales in progress, so he may have acquired an M240 or M-P in trade in the last couple of days.

 

We'll see - I really need the M10 to be in "perfect factory spec" for focusing, since use with a 135 @ f/4 is one of the main reasons I bought it. Which it handled perfectly until it went t**s-up. So while I may give the 2mm hex wrench a try, I expect it will have to go in for professional realignment anyway.

[jaapv]

Just a thought: I had exactly this on my M240. I found that a minuscule piece of paper (lint?) was had found its way  into the bearing of the roller wheel. Pulling it out and a twist with the hex key solved the problem 100%.

 

Anyway, I find that rangefinder adjustment problems in general are solved more efficienly by third-party repairers.

[LocalHero1953]

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I assume that RF focus problems come under warranty. There's a risk that correcting them yourself with a hex key would invalidate that.

Just a thought.

[brill64]

i'd get straight in there & tweak it myself in a heartbeat.

[jaapv]

I assume that RF focus problems come under warranty. There's a risk that correcting them yourself with a hex key would invalidate that.

Just a thought.

Not a chance of that, fortunately.

[Rob L]

I have found, over the years with many film and digital bodies that adjusting the roller wheel at infinity takes care of it 99% of the time. Pick a lens you that you know to focus accurately and set it to the infinity stop and adjust the roller until the images in the rangefinder coincide exactly. Obviously you want something quite far away and with a clean vertical component so you can judge accurately. Then try other lenses to confirm. I think trying to adjust based on taking an image and judging front focus or back focus is extremely difficult and introduces human error as a variable. And I personally would never attempt to adjust the length of the lever arm, but there is a thread that describes the process. In my experience the first thing to go out is usually the vertical, which is super critical to judging focus well, and overall enjoyment of the process. This adjustment is super easy as well except on the MP and MA, where the top plate has to come off, because the M6 style tool does not fit through the screw hole on the front of the camera. Very bad design in my view.

[adan]

 A correction to my original post!

 

Pretty linear response at mid distances (e.g. focused at 15m feet with the RF, actual focus point is at 12 meters feet.)

 

Anyway - thanks again for all the input.

[Chuck Albertson]

My (limited) experience is that Leica gives priority to repairs for bodies still under warranty, especially a new item like the M10, so you might have your M10 back before your M9 turns into a pumpkin. Might be worth a call to Leica NJ.

[pico]

This adjustment is super easy as well except on the MP and MA, where the top plate has to come off, because the M6 style tool does not fit through the screw hole on the front of the camera. Very bad design in my view.

 

If the top must be removed, then it is a good opportunity to drill out the hole, tap it for a larger screw and be done with the issue.

[adan]

Bluudy foookin A!

 

The hex wrench worked! One twirl inside the roller cam and every lens is good at all distances!

 

Just for the record (compared with some online descriptions of the process)

 

1) it took at least 50° of rotation (maybe 70°) to get things right - it was REALLY off

2) the hex lever turned VERY easily - which may itself be suspicious, and how it also got out of whack so easily. Maybe Leica forgot the Lock-Tite. But anyway it is functioning fine now, and I know how to fix it if it recurs.

Edited June 26, 2017 by adan

[jdlaing]

A little spot of fingernail polish to lock that cam would be good. Preferably pink.

[Jeff S]

Good job, Andy. You might consider a video to ease others' minds about this often discussed issue.

 

Jeff

[hunta]

Bluudy foookin A!

 

 

Good job... I'm guessing Leica NJ might have been a tad out of your way

[arno_nyhm]

For some reason my M10 rangefinder is suddenly "off" by about a frameline-width at all distances, with all lenses. Using the RF, pictures are front-focused in all cases. Not aware of any impact that would have caused this.(...)

 

Send in M10 now, use the M9, and hope M10 is repaired/adjusted and returned before time runs out on the free M9 service? Or send both Leicas in and (...)?

 

i would call the leica service and ask them about exactly that problem. i guess they will advise you to send in the M10 now and keep using your M9 while the timeline of free M9 services is stretched for a limited time until your M10 is back.