pico Posted July 11, 2017 Share #41 Posted July 11, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) In the least accessible shelf in storage I have a lot of old Kodak glass beakers/graduates. They are just too slippery to use. For Rodinal's tiny measure I get syringes from the local farmer's supply. Do you have the same? . Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted July 11, 2017 Posted July 11, 2017 Hi pico, Take a look here Anyone tried ADOX 100 Silvermax? Thoughts?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
fotomas Posted July 11, 2017 Share #42 Posted July 11, 2017 I also tried their CMS 20 ii but can't get it right .... anyone else try? I tried some. The results could be really impressive, as you can see here. But it's a bit tricky to develop. I used their Adotech developer. Found it a bit easier to get a acceptable grayscale then with Kodak Technical Pan in the past. Regards Frank 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sblitz Posted July 11, 2017 Share #43 Posted July 11, 2017 I tried some. The results could be really impressive, as you can see here. But it's a bit tricky to develop. I used their Adotech developer. Found it a bit easier to get a acceptable grayscale then with Kodak Technical Pan in the past. Regards Frank I think the problem is that I used a commercial developer and the results were high contrast to say the least Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotomas Posted July 11, 2017 Share #44 Posted July 11, 2017 Yes - that's the point. You have to use specialized developer. But even then the tonal range is not as good as it would be with normal film. Lights tend to be flat and gray and shadows tend to become all black. Also you shouldn't believe the 20 ASA promise. I used the film at 12. This film is made for high contrast work, without midtones, in original. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share #45 Posted July 12, 2017 In the least accessible shelf in storage I have a lot of old Kodak glass beakers/graduates. They are just too slippery to use. For Rodinal's tiny measure I get syringes from the local farmer's supply. Do you have the same? . Jac I have a very good relationship with my local pharmacy in France. They have helped me out a number of times when the post with my various arthritis medications, which come from the UK, has been delayed. The chief pharmacist is fascinated with my three wheeler Morgan (sadly broken at the moment with chassis failure and waiting delivery of a replacement chassis under warranty, coming out from the UK) and enjoys chatting with me about it. I am going there today to get some syringes. In the UK, unless you are a drug addict, it is very difficult to get syringes. I wanted a 5ml syringe to apply tiny amounts of watch oil to the bearings on my barograph and my local pharmacy would not sell me one. The young lady who keeps her shetland ponies in one of our fields, is however a veterinary nurse and she got me one. Wilson Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stray cat Posted July 12, 2017 Share #46 Posted July 12, 2017 The thing I most like about Silvermax 100 (and there is a lot to like about it) is that I am able to co-develop it in my preferred developer (XTOL 1:1) along with my mainstay film, Tri-X. Development times with both films in this developer are identical. Image-wise it reminds me a lot of Agfapan APX100, it has a nice clear base and it is a very very nice pictorial film. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share #47 Posted July 12, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) This is a copy of a question I posted on a less active thread: Does anyone know if Adox Adonal (Rodinal) has a built in wetting agent, like some other developers do or is it best to do a pre-soak in water with 1:700 Adoflo added (the same I will use for final wash but with demineralised water). I asked Fotoimpex that question and also for some more instructions for Adofix, which are totally inadequate on the Adox website and there is nothing on the bottle. The website says Adofix can be diluted at 1:4 or 1:9. Fixing time for film approx 4 minutes but not saying whether this is at 1:4 or 1:9 dilution and at what temperature. I would assume 20º but it does not say. I have no reply from Fotoimpex, the sales agent for Adox, to date. Wilson Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EoinC Posted July 12, 2017 Share #48 Posted July 12, 2017 In the least accessible shelf in storage I have a lot of old Kodak glass beakers/graduates. They are just too slippery to use. For Rodinal's tiny measure I get syringes from the local farmer's supply. Do you have the same? . I do the same (syringe), if I don't have any 2:3 concentrate mixed up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EoinC Posted July 12, 2017 Share #49 Posted July 12, 2017 This is a copy of a question I posted on a less active thread: Does anyone know if Adox Adonal (Rodinal) has a built in wetting agent, like some other developers do or is it best to do a pre-soak in water with 1:700 Adoflo added (the same I will use for final wash but with demineralised water). I asked Fotoimpex that question and also for some more instructions for Adofix, which are totally inadequate on the Adox website and there is nothing on the bottle. The website says Adofix can be diluted at 1:4 or 1:9. Fixing time for film approx 4 minutes but not saying whether this is at 1:4 or 1:9 dilution and at what temperature. I would assume 20º but it does not say. I have no reply from Fotoimpex, the sales agent for Adox, to date. Wilson Hi, Wilson. I don't know about the Adox version (I use Fomapan R09, and do a pre-soak), but I'd suggest mixing a concentrate, so that the volumes used for the developing drum are easy to manage. For the fixer, I'd just mix at 1:9 and try on a cut-off piece of film, then multiply the time to clear by 2.5. I'm a cheaparse, so I reuse my fixer until I'm finally ashamed of myself. Retesting along the way helps me extend my cheaparse vs ashamed duration. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotomas Posted August 5, 2017 Share #50 Posted August 5, 2017 Now I did a test with Silvermax and Caffenol: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! M6, 35CronASPH1 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! M6, 35CronASPH1 ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/273536-anyone-tried-adox-100-silvermax-thoughts/?do=findComment&comment=3330946'>More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted August 5, 2017 Author Share #51 Posted August 5, 2017 Slightly blocky blacks but that may be due to scanner. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotomas Posted August 5, 2017 Share #52 Posted August 5, 2017 Could be - my scanner tends to do so with clear base films. You can avoid it if you scan it as positive and invert it afterwords. But then it's kind of complicated to hit the right brightness. In the negative there is definition everywhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotomas Posted August 6, 2017 Share #53 Posted August 6, 2017 Here is another example, a bit more exposed to the shadows. No blocky blacks here. I even got a brighter scan, but I like to add some contrast. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/273536-anyone-tried-adox-100-silvermax-thoughts/?do=findComment&comment=3331143'>More sharing options...
chrism Posted August 6, 2017 Share #54 Posted August 6, 2017 It will be interesting to see how you get on with Rodinal in the Rondinax, Wilson. When I first used the stuff I was put off a bit by the rather high contrast and grainy results, but then I realised as long as I stick to 1+50 things look much more acceptable. I know Rondinax is quite sensitive to agitation, which is perhaps one reason why it shines so well as a stand developer. I can't remember trying it in the continuous agitation of a Rondinax, so I must remember to do that. I made a base for my Rondinax, with an electric motor and some cogs, and while it is a bit noisy, it makes developing a real breeze. See here and here. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share #55 Posted August 6, 2017 With a Rondinax tank, agitation/rotation is a breeze. Temperature in my house dropped a little bit today but it is still 29.7º - too hot for developing. Global warming in action (are you listening Donald Trump). On Friday of this week it was the highest temperature ever recorded in my village in France of 39.6º and that is at 2500 feet of altitude. The tiled floor in my house, built in the early 1970's exploded in one area from expansion of the ceramic floor tiles, with a huge bang. Wilson 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted August 6, 2017 Share #56 Posted August 6, 2017 (edited) The tiled floor in my house, built in the early 1970's exploded in one area from expansion of the ceramic floor tiles, with a huge bang. That is frightening! We have a in interior wall in our house that makes a subtle 'boom' sometimes and has left spider cracks across the ceiling and one wall. That's enough for me. This house was built in 1889. What can go wrong? I have a story about this house, but it can wait. Edited August 6, 2017 by pico 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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