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Leica Summicron 2/50 sharpness?


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I have bought a Leica m240 and now I have problems to get a sharp image with my Summicron 2/50 E3571xxx wide open. 

I have difficulties getting for example sharp eyes. The sharp point is always shifted. 

Should I get an Viewfinder Magnifier M 1.4x? Or M 1.25x? 

Or do I have to get a 6 bit coding? 

 

I hope I get an answer.

 

Best wishes,

Felix

 
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I have bought a Leica m240 and now I have problems to get a sharp image with my Summicron 2/50 E3571xxx wide open. 

I have difficulties getting for example sharp eyes. The sharp point is always shifted. 

Should I get an Viewfinder Magnifier M 1.4x? Or M 1.25x? 

Or do I have to get a 6 bit coding? 

 

I hope I get an answer.

 

Best wishes,

Felix

 

 

 

Welcome, Felix. First, you do not need six-bit coding. You can set the lens type manually. Besides, it has nothing to do with focusing issues. A magnifier might help if you are not seeing the coincidence patch properly. I have used one but it darkened the viewfinder just enough to be counter productive for my old myopic eyes. Others will likely have different experiences.

 

You might find few answers because long time members are familiar with focusing issues with some lenses - it is old news and thoroughly discussed, for better or worse. You could search for 'focus shift', 'front or rear focusing'.

 

To clearly determine the issue, consider focusing upon a stationary subject using a tripod. Shoot wide open. Minimum focusing distance is quite difficult technically, but it what most people use to test.

 

And stay in touch with us.

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Put it on the tripod. Use focus check scale print at one meter and under 45 degree. Focus with LV, check where focus mark on the lens is. Focus with RF, check again and check where focus is at the taken picture. Some Summicrons have focus shift. I used to have Rigid with focus shift from f2 to f4.

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I found I could not get correct focus with my old 50 summicron type v, so bought a newer 50mm summicron type V made in the digital era (i.e it was coded) and that solved the problem. I guess they tightened up tolerances for the newer lenses. You could send it away for calibration, but you may as well sell it to a Sony user (who will focus with Live View) and get a used coded version.

Pete

Edited by Stealth3kpl
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If this is the only lens which exhibits the problem you described, the above suggestions are right on target. However, if you have similar results with other lenses, you may need to double check if you need a diopter or some other vision aide, or if the body/lenses need adjustment. I've never had a summicron of any focal length which was out of whack unless I was the one doing the damage, but mine were all used on film.

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There might be focus shift with an old lens. Or maybe the rangefinder needs checking, more so with used body. Try using live view.

Out of adjustment is not the same as focus shift. The best thing to do is to have the lens adjusted. And possibly the body too.

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  • 4 months later...

You will need to measure  the back/ front focus with F number in the range F2 to F8. This will enable you to calculate the the correct size shim collar to set the optimum focus setting provided that your rangefinder is set correctly.  Have a look at my posts on this subjects and contact me if you kneed more info.  I had this problem with a 50 Summicron  3303xxx. I think that some of these lenses were set up to focus correctly on colour slide film.

DOUG66

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I have bought a Leica m240 and now I have problems to get a sharp image with my Summicron 2/50 E3571xxx wide open. 

I have difficulties getting for example sharp eyes. The sharp point is always shifted. 

Should I get an Viewfinder Magnifier M 1.4x? Or M 1.25x? 

Or do I have to get a 6 bit coding? 

 

I hope I get an answer.

 

Best wishes,

Felix

 

 

 

Welcome to the forum Felix,

simple way to determine where the problem lies.

Focus the lens wide open on the eyes using live view and focus peaking. Once in focus look through the rangefinder and see if that same focus area is aligned. If not then chances are the lens needs to be recalibrated.

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