Jump to content

Checking accuracy of shutter speeds on a film camera


Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

It is good idea to test it and use if for sometime before sending it for CLA. 8x10 or letter sized prints are better to see if everything works.

Check exposure meter first, with something trustable for reference. 

As it was mention, it might be easier to test shutter speeds with ISO100 film and something like f2.8 lens. BW negative film is better for it, IMO. For faster speeds take it outside and use something even. Like field with view of the sky. Or pond, lake. By the same time check infinity focus. For slow speeds test bring it indoors and find, make the spot with even light. Check for close focus and vertical aliment as well. Check if it works with flash. (Infinity, close focus and flash needs to be checked with exposure on the film, not just visually).

And check it for light leaks while it is still with film. Point it to the bright light source and take couple of pictures under different angle.

Check it without film, lens and back door removed. In the dark, with flashlight light through the lens mount on the curtains. While light is on the front, turn camera and slightly rotate it to see the gaps at all four sides between curtains and film channel. Do it for both curtains. You could also inspect them for light leaks and else by the same time. If you will see some light, it is better to mentioned it before it goes for CLA.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Can you provide more details of how you do this please?

take the back off the camera to test (camera A) and no lens.Using two tripods or something similar have camera A pointing at something interesting, average exposure and set on B with the shutter locked open. Now with the dslr and lens short tele works well line up so the shutter opening in camera A is filling a good part of the frame and focus on the average exposure thing, cover both cameras with a dark cloth to try and block out any extra light (its handy if you can get the dslr as close as you can a rubber lens hood works well). Shoot a series of exposures say at 5.6 starting at the slowest shutter speed on camera A (but transferred over to dslr, A is still set on B with shutter locked open) 1/2 etc up to 1/1000 (you get the idea). Once these reference pics are done put dslr on B (same settings on lens which is still on dslr) and using the shutter on camera A shoot the same shutter speeds. Now compare pics and you will be surprised at how if the shutter speeds are accurate on camera A similar if not identical (they should be!) are.

 

I hope that makes it clearer its not really that complicated but I think short of a professional shutter speed tester its the most accurate method.

Cheers.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Steve - do you have a Leica technician nearby?  Most of the good second hand film camera shops have someone on hand with a machine to check shutter speeds.  It is very easy to check with the proper tools.  That's what I would do.  The odds are that all is ok.  But if there is a problem it may not be at all speeds and so in order to be sure there are no problems (which, given that the camera is built like a tank, if there are problems at any shutter speed you want to promptly return it (there are plenty of perfect ones out there)) you really need to check all speeds.  Why not make a trip to Red Dot Camera or one of those places in town?

Thanks Adam,

I phoned the supplying dealer and was informed they had verified the shutter speeds prior to advertising the camera, which makes sense since the dealer is providing a 6 month warranty.

Going by looks alone I'd say it's seen very little use, but I am actually in the process of carrying out a film test for shutter speed etc. In addition I paid a visit to a reputable camera repair shop yesterday but sadly they were too busy to run a shutter test for me.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

It is good idea to test it and use if for sometime before sending it for CLA. 8x10 or letter sized prints are better to see if everything works.

Check exposure meter first, with something trustable for reference. 

As it was mention, it might be easier to test shutter speeds with ISO100 film and something like f2.8 lens. BW negative film is better for it, IMO. For faster speeds take it outside and use something even. Like field with view of the sky. Or pond, lake. By the same time check infinity focus. For slow speeds test bring it indoors and find, make the spot with even light. Check for close focus and vertical aliment as well. Check if it works with flash. (Infinity, close focus and flash needs to be checked with exposure on the film, not just visually).

And check it for light leaks while it is still with film. Point it to the bright light source and take couple of pictures under different angle.

Check it without film, lens and back door removed. In the dark, with flashlight light through the lens mount on the curtains. While light is on the front, turn camera and slightly rotate it to see the gaps at all four sides between curtains and film channel. Do it for both curtains. You could also inspect them for light leaks and else by the same time. If you will see some light, it is better to mentioned it before it goes for CLA.

Thank you, very helpful.
Link to post
Share on other sites

For the lower speeds there is a simpler alternative, which I've used with my rolleicord. Use an iPhone and make a 'slo-mo' recording through the open back of the camera, while simultaneously keeping a running stopwatch in view. You can play back the opening and closing of the shutter and see exactly how long it was open. My case showed a consistent shutter time 50% longer than set for all speeds from 1/25 to 1/1 seconds.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

For the lower speeds there is a simpler alternative, which I've used with my rolleicord. Use an iPhone and make a 'slo-mo' recording through the open back of the camera, while simultaneously keeping a running stopwatch in view. You can play back the opening and closing of the shutter and see exactly how long it was open. My case showed a consistent shutter time 50% longer than set for all speeds from 1/25 to 1/1 seconds.

Thank you, that's a good tip.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Whatever one you buy, just send it to Youxin Ye and get it CLAd. He's very reasonable time and money and does excellent work. Just received my M3 back and it is minty. Obviously Sherry Krauter and others do great work as well. Add about $190 to whatever camera you buy and be stoked! Why wonder if you're rig is accurate! Know it is!  :)

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Whatever one you buy, just send it to Youxin Ye and get it CLAd. He's very reasonable time and money and does excellent work. Just received my M3 back and it is minty. Obviously Sherry Krauter and others do great work as well. Add about $190 to whatever camera you buy and be stoked! Why wonder if you're rig is accurate! Know it is!  :)

Thank you.

I'm based in the UK and have located an old school repair shop that get good write ups. In fact I've been in to see them to discuss the situation: CLA is £145 +VAT at 20%, and turn round is approx 6 weeks.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Steve, have you had the roll processed? If so, are there any obvious issues in the exposures that would indicate light leaks or shutter problems (the symptoms for both can be very similar)?

 

If the exposures are good and the camera sounds and feels right (smooth advance, shutter release not too early, late or overly notchy, 1/30, 1/15 have follow on spring sound at your ear, etc), you are all ok! Use and enjoy!

 

If, after another 20-100 rolls some problems start to emerge, then consider a cla. Otherwise save your money. The camera will not implode in your hands ;)

 

Enjoy!

 

Cheers

 

J :)

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Steve, have you had the roll processed? If so, are there any obvious issues in the exposures that would indicate light leaks or shutter problems (the symptoms for both can be very similar)?

If the exposures are good and the camera sounds and feels right (smooth advance, shutter release not too early, late or overly notchy, 1/30, 1/15 have follow on spring sound at your ear, etc), you are all ok! Use and enjoy!

If, after another 20-100 rolls some problems start to emerge, then consider a cla. Otherwise save your money. The camera will not implode in your hands ;)

Enjoy!

Cheers

J :)

I haven't quite finished the first roll as I'm being quite selective in what I take - I know I should snap anything I see, but it's against my code of conduct. :) Obviously I need to hurry up before the 6 month warranty expires. But it does feel right, nice smooth film advance, with shutter sounding proportionate to the speed setting (I know that's unscientific!).
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...