M246 Monochrom impressions after 1 month

[Kwesi]

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I think i am generally successful with the M246 and 240 because I intuitively know what the meter should read based on the light level and also how much i can over expose based on the meter reading when i want my whites to be bright. I tend to work manually. In other words i tend to set the aperture and shutter before i raise the camera to my eye.

Here is an example with M246 and 28/2, v2.

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[a.noctilux]

Kwesi, nice picture with nice contrast and no high light burn-out.

Mostly, the clouds rendering is wonder here.

 

Did you remember how you "took the light reading" ?

When you raised the camera to your eye, did the LED in VF was "o" or other indication ?

 

Thanks.

[robgo2]

I thought that I might revive this thread, as I am in the process of testing a rented M246. As background, my main cameras are a Q and an SL (manual focus lenses exclusively). Comparisons were made using the same lenses (M 28 f2 Summicron ASPH and M 50 f1.4 Summilux ASPH) on both the SL and the M246. Raw conversion was performed with Iridient. For the SL color files, I switched to the Mono option, which is simply desaturation in LAB mode. My conclusion is that Iridient really rocks with the M246 files.

 

The good news is that the M246 produces significantly better B&W files than the SL, and I don't think that the difference is hard to perceive. I can see it at "normal" viewing sizes, not just at 100%. The sharpness and per pixel detail are truly amazing. Tonality is superior, at least from the midtones on downwards.

 

However, there is some bad news. As mentioned by others, the M246 does not handle highlights well. Not only is it prone to blow highlights completely, but non-blown highlights seem to lack tonal levels and detail. The SL is superior in this regard. It didn't take me long to learn to underexpose every shot, but even then, it is not always possible to avoid the highlight issues.

 

The ergonomics of the M246 leave much to be desired. It is heavy and difficult to grip. The exposure compensation method (press the focus button in front and turn the thumbwheel in back) is a nightmare. The EVF is old technology. Compared the EVF on the SL, it is like returning to a 1950s TV monitor. The rangefinder VF is small and difficult to see in dim light. I have no prior experience with RFs, so I readily acknowledge that the problems are largely with me, not the camera.  In any event, I find myself using the EVF more than the RF, and one big reason is that I like having a live histogram. Unless one is a master at judging light, the histogram helps to avoid countless exposure errors. Taken together, the ergonomics of the M246 make picture-taking rather slow and laborious. I'm certain that with a bit of practice, I can get better, but the process will never be as fast and easy as with the SL, even with MF lenses.

 

So, my quandary is whether to put up with the camera's downsides in order to enjoy its main upside--superb IQ. I'm going to continue practicing my technique for another few days before deciding.

 

Rob

 

Below is a test shot (not art) where the highlights and other tones came out perfect. The detail and 3D presence are what I love about this camera, although I'm not sure that they display well at this small size.

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Edited July 11, 2018 by robgo2

[Jon Warwick]

I agree, the tonality and resolution and “naturalness” of images off the M246 are better than any of the 35mm full frame cameras in my view. When one prints very large like I do, this benefit is highly noticeable.

Your view on problematic highlights is also something I agree with - but my personal view is that I dislike digital sensors for bright sunny and/or high contrast scenes in general, given the shoulder is horribly abrupt versus film’s gentler roll off.

I think digital excels (and tonality is far better) when it’s cloudy / softer light like early morning or evening .....regardless of whether one is dealing with colour or Monochrom only sensors.

[Luke_Miller]

I think digital excels (and tonality is far better) when it’s cloudy / softer light like early morning or evening .....regardless of whether one is dealing with colour or Monochrom only sensors.

 

I agree.  I am a cloudy (or rainy) day junkie.  I love to photograph when an overcast sky acts as nature's softbox and produces that wonderful soft light.

[djmay]

Leica sent me a M246 to test earlier this year and I loved it. Highlights are not a problem if you meter and expose for the areas where detail is to be retained. This is the opposite of film where one meters for the shadows where detail is to be retained.

 

If I did not use the Leica S, the Monochrom would be my BW camera. As good as the Monochrom is, the S is better.

 

Jesse

PS. This does not mean I will not get a Monochrom

[Kwesi]

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Kwesi, nice picture with nice contrast and no high light burn-out.

Mostly, the clouds rendering is wonder here.

 

Did you remember how you "took the light reading" ?

When you raised the camera to your eye, did the LED in VF was "o" or other indication ?

 

Thanks.

Hi a.noctilux,

Sorry for the delay. My process is to always set my ISO manually. It really helps in knowing the light levels. When I'm outdoors in daylight I'm always at base ISO. My aperture is usually at 5.6 regardless of lens and my shutter is at 1/750 for the M240 and about 1/1500 for the M246. That give me a 0 reading for an average scene. I will then adjust about a half stop in either direction if needed.

Sorry for the long explanation, hope it's helpful.

[russell]

For what it's worth, I sold my M246 earlier this year.  I have a M10 since about 12 months. When it blows highlights, I notice it less.

I'd consider another M monochrom camera, but might have to skip a generation until they come up with a way to preserve the highlights.

[a.noctilux]

Thanks Kwesi for your kind explanation.

 

Your practice is near zen attitude approch and need only near zero change in settings.

[Crowmagnon]

It's 2024 we have 5 monochrom cameras the light room is updated. People of this thread how do you feel about highlights of m246, using current software for post processing any change in opinion or any new techniques. Or m246 is the ultimate  BAD WEATHER  camera Where it shines during overcast, thunder storms and rainy days. Even though it's missing some Grey tones.

Edited September 17 by Crowmagnon

[a.noctilux]

What I've done.

Using the M246 (as with every camera or gear) and learn how to suit the camera to our taste/need

is the only way to be satisfied other than relying on technology to have satisfaction.

...

*

Then if the blowing highlight is still there, just accept the fact or underexpose more for future use.