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RF alignment. Here we go again.


satureyes

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And the person knocking back a Genever does the sensible thing: Sends the whole kit to Wil van Manen and has it back in one week's time - perfectly adjusted. Or - an alternative, he forces a Bourbon (shudder ;) ) down and sends the system to DAG with the same end result.

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And the person knocking back a Genever does the sensible thing: Sends the whole kit to Wil van Manen and has it back in one week's time - perfectly adjusted. Or - an alternative, he forces a Bourbon (shudder ;) ) down and sends the system to DAG with the same end result.

I just realized that by not having anything... Scotch/Whiskey/Bourbon... I could have saved enough for an used Leica lens !

 

I need will power.....

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Video? A useful extra for the travel photographer and PJ that some Leicamen appear to abhor for unclear reasons... No matter. There are other camera brands...

Strange times.. Some M10 users who don't want video in their camera, want video instructions for their camera. :D

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[...] If you're really into shooting video I would suggest getting a special video recorder or just use your smartphone.

 

Thank you for your suggestion but i'm not interested. My next M body will have the same video capabilities as my modern cameras or won't be a Leica.

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Ignoring the fact that in some countries doing work on your camera may have warranty implications......

 

There have been several informative threads about rangefinder adjustment on this forum. Might I suggest that if you can't understand the information presented here, that adjusting something Leica don't want you to do yourself, might not be a good idea. The basics of rangefinder adjustment haven't changed since 1953 only the tools required to do so.

 

A quick search brings up this thread for horizontal....

 

https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/118043-m9-coincidence-at-infinity/

 

Start half way down the first page with Julians posts. I STRONGLY suggest you only try the infinity adjustment unless you are extremely confident in your skills.

 

The vertical is stupidly easy. Remove dot. Adjust with allen key. Replace dot. Before the M240 you needed a special tool. Now you don't. But even how to make one is described in these forums if you wanted to adjust an M9. All it takes is some time and the search function.

 

Gordon

Thank you for that link. It was surprisingly easy to adjust the rangefinder. Maybe I was lucky. My M8 was way off (I do not know how or when).

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1. pic shows the first try at adjustment. 2. pic shows the second try.

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  • 1 year later...

This has been a great thread to follow, as well as the links to the other RF self-adjust threads (i.e. Julian's).

 

I'm going to embarrass myself here, but please be gentle. I've been shooting Leica for years, and focusing successfully...I just don't know how to do the adjustments on an M (I have done it on my iiif and iiig....). 

 

I get confused about when people are talking about the vertical vs. horizontal adjustment, as to what is vertical vs. horizontal in relation to what's happening in the RF patch. What I can tell you is that with my M10, when I'm focused at infinity (with a 28, 35, two 50s...including a 50 Lux Asph which is critical for focus at 1.4... and a 90) with the camera held in normal/landscape/horizontal position, when the RF patch is on a vertical edge (say the edge of a building, or a mountain several km away) the vertical edge doesn't quite line up. Just slightly off, always looks like it wished I could turn the lens slightly more to bring things in a straight line. I can post a diagram if it's helpful but I think you'll know what I mean. 

 

My M9, and my film MP are spot on in the viewfinder.  I also find that the M10 image in the RF patch now seems difficult (if that's the right word) to get sharp even at closer distances; I seem to struggle a bit more which is counterintuitive given the larger magnification and nicer size window. My glasses are fine, and as I've said, focus (both in the viewfinder, and with the resultant images) hasn't been a problem with the M9 or film MP. Nice and sharp, no back/front focus, all my lenses work good. 

 

I haven't touched the camera adjustments, and might not. But my question is:  is the adjustment for what I'm describing done behind the red dot? Or with the cam roller/2.5mm Allen Key? Also, for the M10, what size allen key is behind the red dot (I understand from the thread that since the 240, the special tool isn't required, and someone mentioned it was an allen key as well). 

 

I look forward to everyone's wisdom!

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Sounds like your is off both ways. If as you say the images do not coincide with multiple lenses at infinity, then you need to adjust the roller wheel cam inside the lens mount.

If you can't get the images to look sharp when they are coinciding as best you can get them to (at any distance), then the vertical is off and that is done through the red dot. The vertical alignment is easy to do (once you get the red dot off) and is super critical to full enjoyment of a Leica and ease of focus. No special tools required with the M10.

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This has been a great thread to follow, as well as the links to the other RF self-adjust threads (i.e. Julian's).

 

I'm going to embarrass myself here, but please be gentle. I've been shooting Leica for years, and focusing successfully...I just don't know how to do the adjustments on an M (I have done it on my iiif and iiig....). 

 

I get confused about when people are talking about the vertical vs. horizontal adjustment, as to what is vertical vs. horizontal in relation to what's happening in the RF patch. What I can tell you is that with my M10, when I'm focused at infinity (with a 28, 35, two 50s...including a 50 Lux Asph which is critical for focus at 1.4... and a 90) with the camera held in normal/landscape/horizontal position, when the RF patch is on a vertical edge (say the edge of a building, or a mountain several km away) the vertical edge doesn't quite line up. Just slightly off, always looks like it wished I could turn the lens slightly more to bring things in a straight line. I can post a diagram if it's helpful but I think you'll know what I mean. 

 

My M9, and my film MP are spot on in the viewfinder.  I also find that the M10 image in the RF patch now seems difficult (if that's the right word) to get sharp even at closer distances; I seem to struggle a bit more which is counterintuitive given the larger magnification and nicer size window. My glasses are fine, and as I've said, focus (both in the viewfinder, and with the resultant images) hasn't been a problem with the M9 or film MP. Nice and sharp, no back/front focus, all my lenses work good. 

 

I haven't touched the camera adjustments, and might not. But my question is:  is the adjustment for what I'm describing done behind the red dot? Or with the cam roller/2.5mm Allen Key? Also, for the M10, what size allen key is behind the red dot (I understand from the thread that since the 240, the special tool isn't required, and someone mentioned it was an allen key as well). 

 

I look forward to everyone's wisdom!

if you are this uncertain, just send the camera to any qualified Leica technician.
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It's not that I'm "this uncertain", it's that I've heard so many descriptions of vertical and horizontal (and some of them conflicting I might add), so I wanted to clarify my own situation by giving a real world example of what I'm experiencing, as to which adjustment pertains to what. I'd prefer to not remove the red dot if I don't have to.  I also wanted to know if it is also a hex key now behind the red dot post 240, or a screwhead, etc. 

 

I might send it to DAG (I'm in North America) simply because I don't want to wait 4 months for a straightforward tweak. But I was curious...naturally I don't want to wreck anything - and I know there can be critical issues with RF calibration - but it sounds like there's been a few people successful here. I haven't had my M10 very long, and it's a PIA to ship it off from my location. And I have adjusted my iiif infinity (it was doing the exact same thing as the M10 actually...) on two occasions.  

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On the M240 and M10 all you need it a 2 mm hex key and a distant object. First adjust vertical alignment behind the red dot, then adjust the roller wheel to infinity. Use a magnifier if you have one. I guess it'll take you ten minutes.

What puzzles me is that the alignment is so off in the first place. M240s and M10s normally don't do that. The vertical cannot - or only in extreme cases- be knocked out of adjustment like earlier models.

Check whether there is something caught in the roller wheel first. I had a piece of fluff throw my M240 way off, removing it solved the problem.

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In recent years I have purchased a barely used late model film MP - vertical alignment was off and could not be adjusted without removing the top, so I sold it.   A new M240P - perfect,  A new M-D240 - vertical off, was replaced and second one was perfect, 2 M10s - both off in the vertical and now have black dots! Seems the techs might rely too much on jigs and instruments rather than skill and experience.

Edited by Rob L
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On the M240 and M10 all you need it a 2 mm hex key and a distant object. First adjust vertical alignment behind the red dot, then adjust the roller wheel to infinity. Use a magnifier if you have one. I guess it'll take you ten minutes.

What puzzles me is that the alignment is so off in the first place. M240s and M10s normally don't do that. The vertical cannot - or only in extreme cases- be knocked out of adjustment like earlier models.

Check whether there is something caught in the roller wheel first. I had a piece of fluff throw my M240 way off, removing it solved the problem.

 

Thanks Jaapv! This is super helpful. It's only slightly out, but enough to annoy me because it's not the exact same as my other M cams...I'm still taking good shots with the M10.  It wasn't like this when I got it, but seems to have drifted a hair. I started noticing it during my last trip (maybe it got bumped or something, though I'm pretty careful...who knows). In any event, DAG is someone I trust (price is reasonable...more importantly he said he'd only take a week), so I'll likely go that route.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Quick question - I've removed the red dot and have the 2mm hex key for the obvious hex screw there; is it simply a matter of turning the screw or should one push and turn it at the same time...what I'm getting at here is that the RF mechanism is spring-loaded and moves in and out when.  I just don't want to force anything I'm not supposed to. I'm thinking things will be greatly improved for me when I can get the horizontal nailed, that's what is contributing to my difficulty reaching sharp focus visually.

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