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Zsolt Arkossy

Filters (UV, Polarizer, ND) on M10 + Summilux 35 FLE

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I would like to purchase some filters for the M10 + Summilux 35 FLE, and I am not sure which are the best in terms of ease of use (screw on with hood, stacking, vignetting).

 

I am about to order these:

 

UV: http://www.leicashop.com/brandnew_de/filter/leica-filter/leica-filter-uva-ii-46mm-schwarz-skul13033.html

 

ND: http://www.leicashop.com/brandnew_de/filter/leica-nd-filter/leica-filter-nd-16x-46mm-schwarz-skul13055.html

 

Polarizer: http://www.leicashop.com/brandnew_de/filter/b-w-pol-filter/b-w-circular-polfilter-ksm-e46mm-mrc-f-pro-skubw82658.html

Edited by Zsolt Arkossy

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You couldn't do much wrong with these - though the "original Leica" Filters are as usual very expensive (3* the price you pay for an B+W on the "non-Leica-market". The Leica Filter is said to have the same glass - and perhaps less good coating - than B+W-Filters...)

 

For the B+W Polarizer you should certainly look for other offers - they are much, much less expensive - for the same B+W type and brand!

 

Though with an M a normal polarizer is only easily to handle  if  you use Liveview (which is not really useful for 35mm). Without LV you cannot control the effect directly. It works with some experience and markings on the filter, though one needs some training for this.  The "Universal Polfilter-M" is easier to use, since you can see it's effect through the finder - though it is very expensive again.     

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Thank you Uli for the suggestion. I think you are right - I will look into B+W selection - probably will skip the polarizer, and will stick to the UV/ND combo.

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Polarizers can be very helpful, but more so on longer focal lengths. with 35mm you run the risk that the filtering-effect is unevenly spread on the photo, which looks more awkward than without a filter.

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Yes Uli - the more I research, the more I think that I will skip the UV as well - so I might get only a B+W 46mm nano coating 3 stop ND filter and that's it.

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It's been mentioned that you should get a linear polarizer rather than circular for shooting with an M however the reason why escapes me. I think it was jaapv who posted the explanation.

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It's been mentioned that you should get a linear polarizer rather than circular for shooting with an M however the reason why escapes me. I think it was jaapv who posted the explanation.

You don't need a circular polarizer for the M, but it will work on the M anyway.

 

A circular polarizer passes only light polarized in its favored direction but de-polarizes the light in doing so. This is needed for the light meters in some SLRs which would fail with polarized light on account of the mirrors and prisms which bring the light to the meter's sensor.

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Perhaps hit the pause for a moment and check out the configuration at the LA Leica Gallerie.

 

Wit the FLE, you will be able to fit one Leica filter under the screw-on hood at a time. This is definitely not where you want a polarizer, so no hood if you use the polarizer. You'll see what I mean in-store.

 

Now back to the original question:

I use the UVA like a transparent, in-losable lens cap that doesn't require removal before a shot.

ND is good for wide apertures in daylight.

Polarizer for counter-reflection, not sure on CP or LP either, let us know what the reason was.

Yellow for B&W contrast bump.

 

Have you seen or used the Heliopan variable ND? They stack two polarizers, you vary their relative rotation to get more ND. Maybe a single item to replace two on the list.

 

Good luck.

 

Eric

Edited by enboe

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Please forgive all the typos at 3 AM last night.  I do seem to remember that LP was bad for phase-detect AF in DSLRs.  Either should be fine on digital M's from my best understanding.

 

Eric

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"I use the UVA like a transparent, un-losable lens cap that doesn't require removal before a shot."

 

I bought one (B+W make)to use instead of the awful lens cap for the Leica Q. I generally remove for photography but the truth is I find the images with/without indistinguishable. 

 

Edited by microview

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