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M10 with Nocti 50 0.95


phongph
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Interesting. When I had the M240, I never knew what or wasn't calibrated. Turns out everything was off. But initially I accepted ok focussing at 0.95.

 

Got the M10. Trusted it to be calibrated. Knew my 90mm was bang on and all my lenses were super sharp except the noctilux. My dealer, Camtec photo, (great dealer btw) sent it to be calibrated. It's now great.

 

I tested with EVF and OVF and both are exact. Since the M10 is easuer to focus than prior RF models, I KNOW when I'm in focus and the nocti is now bang on.

 

So, a well calibrated noctilux at 0.95 can give the same results focussing through EVF or OVF. And the results are spectacular.

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I've only had the camera a day, and due to rain, haven't been out to try distant focus of the Noctilux using the rangefinder.  Others have reported it easier, but I'll have to see for myself.  

 

But I did test whether I could focus near field objects easily indoors.  Because the Visoflex is so improved over the EVF2, it is easier.  As soon as you begin to focus, the enlargement will allow accurate focus, with or without assist.  Although there are comments on the forum that there are too many red sparkles when using focus assist, I found these helped with focus on surfaces that have no sharp edges, such as glass, where there is dust or other imperfections.

 

At a masked ball I attend each year, I take low-light portraits.  Even if there were bright light, because of hat brims and mask noses, I would need to place the focal point; in the dark with a wide-open lens, accurate placement on the eye becomes essential.  For the last two years, I've used the Q at f1.7 and ISO around 6400, with the focus spot pre-positioned for where an eye would fall on the rear screen, camera held vertically in front of me (as I also have a mask that can interfere with holding the camera close).  I only need to move the eye spot slightly for framing and shoot.  I would prefer a 35mm lens, and so on the Q, use the 35mm frame lines to aid in composition, but also to give me a little wiggle room for framing errors, vertical issues, stray feathers extending in the dark, etc.  

 

Last night, using a small jar with fine print as an eye proxy, I tested the same method with the f0.95 Noctilux, staying around its minimum focal distance.  With the M10, it's now possible to pre-place the focus spot in live view, hold the camera at arms length, and see the magnified image with focus assist on the rear screen.  I could nail the fine print every time.  The lens doesn't focus as close as the Q, but has the low-light advantage.  50mm is a bit tight for this environment, so I intend to use same method with the 35mm FLE on the M10 next year instead of the Q.  That is, if there are batteries available by then to power a few hours of uninterrupted live view use.  Not exactly what the rangefinder purists intended, but it works!

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Hi All!

Please advise your experienc of the combo M10 and Nocti 50 0.95, shooting with and without Optional EVF Visoflex 020.

Have a nice weekend!

Thank, Phongph!

 

I shot my M240 with the EVF and 0.95.  Now shooting my M10 with that combo.  

 

I love shooting my M cameras best with their optical viewfinder and if the Noctilux is calibrated perfectly then it's a dream to shoot.  

 

Over time though I have got more into shooting this lens with the EVF.  I figured once you put this huge, heavy lens on the M it kinda looses its light weight / compactness (for a rangefinder I mean) and so adding an EVF doesn't really add much extra bulk or weight and the pros of shooting with the EVF is perfectly nailed focus every time.

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It seems that the M10 is made for the Noctilux. You can move the focus with the EVF / LV to the point you want ... important for the image compostion.

This is  an advantage of the M10 versus the older Ms. With the RF alone, focusing with the M10 is similar to that of the older Ms.

With the M10 you do not have to pan after focusing.

Edited by Uwe M.
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The moveable focus point with LV or EVF is brilliant for long lenses. Using zoom magnification, sometimes an object is too big on screen to know what you're looking at. By moving the point before you zoom, you see exactly what you're focussing on.

 

This is true with a 50 for closer objects

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Hi All!

Thanks for your sharing the combo M10 with Nocti.

My camera & lens are SL 601, SL 24-90/ f2.8-4.0, M Apo 50 f2 and M 75 Lux f1.4. I consider to get M10 with Nocti 0.95 or with my current M Apo 50. My other option is only to get Nocti 0.95 to play with SL 601.

Have a good day!

Thanks!

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The moveable focus point with LV or EVF is brilliant for long lenses. Using zoom magnification, sometimes an object is too big on screen to know what you're looking at. By moving the point before you zoom, you see exactly what you're focussing on.

 

This is true with a 50 for closer objects

 

In my opinion, the moveable focus makes more sense with fast wide angle lenses.

 

With long lenses, when you compose after focusing in the center, the angle (movement of the lens) is too small to matter.

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Wide open, the Noctilux is only usable (acceptable micro-contrast) when the focus is right in the center of the frame.

Sorry, this is just the range of the new M10 with the moveable focus point (EVF/LV) and in combination with the Nocti wide open (@ f/0.95).

You can compose your pic without panning the camera.

This option: moveable focus point with EVF / LV in combination with the Nocti wide open makes the M10 attractive to me.

You are right, if you only work with the RF and do not use the EVF / LV!

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It is just that the optical quality of the Noctilux wide open quickly deteriorates once you move outside the very central part of the frame.

This is interesting to read.

I have not consciously made such an experience yet.

In the future I'll pay attention to it, thank you for this advice.

Here is a sample image with moving focus point and the Nocti wide open,

fullframe, no panning.

Focused on the eyes.
Testing the M10 in Wetzlar.

Edited by Uwe M.
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Referring to off center objects.

Me too. I focus and reframe and still stay at in focus most of the time.

 

Unless you are using a tripod it's no less accurate than moving the focus aid. Honestly just breathing has more of an effect on focus than reframing.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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