M10 can be used with SOMNI (50mm DR) full range

[a.noctilux]

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4 hours ago, icreaterain said:

Looks like the image with the modification secret is gone. Can you repost it please?

Not a secret 🤒

something like this, where to work at border with a sharp knife ?

 

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As I wrote, only necessary if the parts in bottom of the M10's chamber touch the ramp of somni

[icreaterain]

Great, thanks! Yeah, I can't focus it to infinity, to 10m only. So I should fill only the external corner, right?

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[icreaterain]

Oh, I found - it's about my question exactly:
 

Quote

filing only the chamfered edge (in red here, thanks Mitch)

NOT the whole surface of the coupling close focus DR cam

 

Just my edge is not chamfered, it's usual 90 degree corner in section. But I think I got it correct

[Tri-Elmar]

Dear friends of the DR-Summicron,

by chance I found this thread regarding the modification of the lens for digital Ms. The picture above was extremely useful. Thanks a.noctilux!
After I painstakingly filed the ramp with a sharp knife for a 1/10 mm it worked gorgeous. I can use the full range up to infinity now.

Maybe a hint regarding the close-focus area by the skilled members: Is it necessary to unmount the lens when switching the both ranges or can the lens remain mounted when doing so?

 

Cheers!

[Sean ASA]

1 hour ago, Tri-Elmar said:

Dear friends of the DR-Summicron,

by chance I found this thread regarding the modification of the lens for digital Ms. The picture above was extremely useful. Thanks a.noctilux!
After I painstakingly filed the ramp with a sharp knife for a 1/10 mm it worked gorgeous. I can use the full range up to infinity now.

Maybe a hint regarding the close-focus area by the skilled members: Is it necessary to unmount the lens when switching the both ranges or can the lens remain mounted when doing so?

 

Cheers!

You don't have to remove the lens. Note though that the Ball bearing type button on top of the lens needs to be pushed down and it's probably easier or causes less strain on the camera mount to do so off camera. Originally designed the googles when sliding onto their mount would push down the Ball bearing. To use the googles accurately on the M10 you might need to remove the plastic spacing pin. If using EVF it's no necessary to use the googles. Probably a bit late now, but any filing of the focus ring diminishes the lenses close focus abilities and reduces the value of the lens. It's a rare thing and was one of Leicas most precise Science lenses at the time. The fact that the metering design of the new M11 and I assume future M's will allow this lens once more to work unmodified, it's probably a little sacrilege to do this to the lens. Unmodified versions are beginning to rise in value. (though Leica didn't exactly help its cause when they designed the M8, which apparently was an oversight as they didn't consider this lens as they admitted they should have.) Anyhow what's done is done, there are no spare parts in Germany. So best thing now is to enjoy the lens.   

[a.noctilux]

1 hour ago, Tri-Elmar said:

Dear friends of the DR-Summicron,

by chance I found this thread regarding the modification of the lens for digital Ms. The picture above was extremely useful. Thanks a.noctilux!
After I painstakingly filed the ramp with a sharp knife for a 1/10 mm it worked gorgeous. I can use the full range up to infinity now.

Maybe a hint regarding the close-focus area by the skilled members: Is it necessary to unmount the lens when switching the both ranges or can the lens remain mounted when doing so?

 

Cheers!

You are welcome @Tri-Elmar

Nice to know that this thread is helpful for DR users as I'm for so long.

I love the lens so much that before M10, I did something not "right" considering the nice high class manufacturing of DR Summicron,

...so I had one mount filed down ( butchered as some may say including me ) to reach infinity with my digital M.

 

If you have the goggles ( SDPOO ), you don't need to unmount the lens to reach close range.

Turn the focus to 1m, push the focus ring forward then turn to close range < 0.9m.

This will not turn further than 0.9m, miracle when you push in the SDPOO, the focus ring can be turned to closer distance.

The ball on top of the DR prevents the ring to turn without the goggles.

...

Without SDPOO, using LV, to be able to focus in near range, just push the ball before turning.

 

edit,

while I wrote, Sean ASA replied

 

@Sean ASA

this is mind filing, so nothing to "butcher" as the filed DR can still be used on film M  as usual 😉

Edited March 17, 2022 by a.noctilux

[a.noctilux]

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For fortunate users of 50mm Rigid Summicron, the one with infinity lock, nothing to butcher

the one accessory to use is SOMKY + UOORF for close range only 1:7.5 to 1:15

https://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/SOMKY

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I can even use the DR optical cell with the device,

and sometimes the rare "yellow" collapsible LTM Summicron 5cm

even if I have also the Rigid Summicron, you know the infinity lock ...

 

Edited March 17, 2022 by a.noctilux

[Sean ASA]

30 minutes ago, a.noctilux said:

You are welcome @Tri-Elmar

Nice to know that this thread is helpful for DR users as I'm for so long.

I love the lens so much that before M10, I did something not "right" considering the nice high class manufacturing of DR Summicron,

...so I had one mount filed down ( butchered as some may say including me ) to reach infinity with my digital M.

 

If you have the goggles ( SDPOO ), you don't need to unmount the lens to reach close range.

Turn the focus to 1m, push the focus ring forward then turn to close range < 0.9m.

This will not turn further than 0.9m, miracle when you push in the SDPOO, the focus ring can be turned to closer distance.

The ball on top of the DR prevents the ring to turn without the goggles.

...

Without SDPOO, using LV, to be able to focus in near range, just push the ball before turning.

 

edit,

while I wrote, Sean ASA replied

 

@Sean ASA

this is mind filing, so nothing to "butcher" as the filed DR can still be used on film M  as usual 😉

It's only by small degree's maybe a yay or nay regarding film M's. I think the filed bit is the edge that pushes the focus mechanism, situated at the bottom of the mount. As its ever so slightly thinner (shaved off slightly) it doesn't push the bit at the bottom back as far as it needs too. I'm no expert so this is just chat that could be completely wrong. I've a mint DR that I use on a M3. However I really wish I'd bought a Mint Ridged in the first place, I could have used it on my prior Digital M's. It'll be a number of years before used M11's match my pocket.    

[Tri-Elmar]

Thanks Arnaud and Sean.

I was a bit overcautious, when switching, because turning the distance ring, a sudden gap appears between the two ranges on the brass barrel top at the switching point. That's where the trigger for distance metering takes its distance information and I wanted to avoid any harm to this precision component. Well, it did not caused any harm to my M3, but I wanted to be on the safe side. Cheers for your useful hints!

Anyhow, it's a shame to resign the abilities of the DR in the digital world, except using them with other mirrorless cameras e.g. A7 with an adaptor.
I am very happy regarding your minimal invasive surgeon advisor, using my 1963 item before the M 10 it works gorgeous, having touch and feel of the analogue period.

Spring greetings, just taken these crocus clayces at 50 centimetres distance.

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[Infantasy]

pls ignore this post.

Edited April 7, 2022 by Infantasy
found the soloution

[Infantasy]

Just nearly to make the deal with the seller but found abnormal on the rear lenses group as shown. Does anybody know what the problem is?

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[a.noctilux]

Taking into account the age of these lenses, last batch in 1968, we would not encounter "as new" lens.

Coming to these marks, this would be chipping paints.

Best is to know where the fallen paint dust bits are by now, in the lens or eliminated/cleaned.

...

In practice, only real life use can decide if those can affect picture taking results.

Acceptable or not, only the user can decide.

In my old lenses "journey" I did accept so many "flaws" if this don't impact my final results.

Edited April 8, 2022 by a.noctilux

[Infantasy]

3 minutes ago, a.noctilux said:

Taking into account the age of these lenses, last batch in 1968, we would not encounter "as new" lens.

Coming to these marks, this would be chipping paints.

In practice, only real life use can decide if those can affect picture taking results.

Acceptable or not, only the user can decide.

In my old lenses "journey" I did accept so many "flaws" if this don't impact my final results.

I only worry this is separation of lense elements. Isn't it? If not, is it any risk to developing to severe flaws.

[a.noctilux]

@Infantasy

if this bother you, wait a bit to find "better shape" lens.

We can choose the best one we can out of 253k units of Summicron 50mm ( less mines, I don't sell ! ).

As you, I wanted flawless Summicron, and end with many different "flawed" old Summicron.

I do have and use four (or more ?) 50mm Summicron with each different flaws that I accepted or gave for repair.

[Infantasy]

18 minutes ago, a.noctilux said:

@Infantasy

if this bother you, wait a bit to find "better shape" lens.

We can choose the best one we can out of 253k units of Summicron 50mm ( less mines, I don't sell ! ).

As you, I wanted flawless Summicron, and end with many different "flawed" old Summicron.

I do have and use four (or more ?) 50mm Summicron with each different flaws that I accepted or gave for repair.

The seller said his summicron had no modification and can focus infinity without any stiff on the focusing ring so I wish to get his lenses without following your modification. Unforturnately, it has another flaw which brings me doubt. The serial No. is 147xxxx and your copy is 17xxxxx.  the successful batch seems arbitrary.

[a.noctilux]

Another choice that would be my present previleged choice, described in my post #67.

Let's talk a bit out of topic, Rigid Summicron 50mm.

The last Rigid Summicron that I have is very good for "normal" range use to 1m, even if I don't like the infinity lock,

in real use the Rigid is lighter and smoother than Somni, with it's larger focus ring.

The stopping of this ring at "10m" before engaging the lock is a notice for me that I'm too far from main subject.

This is my practical learning process to accept old lenses flaws.

Then we have the nice device to go closer working on all Leica M RF ...SOMKY.

This somky works even with lovely unscrewed optical cell of my first Leitz/Leica lens, this one

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[Infantasy]

Actually, I have several 50mm lenses but none of them have focusing distance closer than 0.9m. I always look for a standard lense with closest focusing and have been poisoned by DR after saw this post. Nevertheless, I would continue to look for this lenses with better condition. Thanks a.noctilux.

[Infantasy]

@a.noctilux

I eventually bought a DR for my M10 today though it can only focus upto in between 25 and 50ft. Before modifying to achieve infinity focusing, I have some questions about this lenses:

1. I feel blockage whenever lift up and turn the ring to close focus or reverse to normal focus. So I stop to change focusing mode and only done after dismount the lenses. But it is no blockage feel if the lenses is mounted on M3. Is it normal to you all?

2.  The front part of the lenses has a little bit loose and has very minor shaking during use. Is it normal?

3. The focus is not accurate when using SDPOO viewfinder attachment in close focus range. Is it normal and not possible to use on M10?

Sorry to bother you for so many questions.

 

[a.noctilux]

@Infantasy

1 - when you push the focus ring then turn to go to close range, locking at 0.9m or 36" is normal, the ball is pushing by mounting the SDPOO

to focus closer.

Is the SDPOO has the right size of hole for the ball pushing ?

Exist two sizes of ball/SDPOO, I don't know why.

2 - no the front part must not be loose.

Needing to be verified by a competent person

3 - strange, the combo must be verified as "2"

 

You are welcome.

😄

Thread old and interesting datas for DR follow...ings (ers)

 

Edited April 10, 2022 by a.noctilux

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[Infantasy]

On 6/12/2017 at 5:49 PM, willeica said:

My 50 DR SN 1468884 (from 1957, the second year of production) works fine on my M10, both with and without goggles in the two ranges. Strangely enough, my 50 DR did not work with an early set of goggles which came with it, but works fine with a later set which I subsequently acquired. According to van Hasbroeck, there was a change in the 50 DR at SN 2233899 when the closest focus distance was increased from 19 to 20 inches. My 50 DR does not work on the earlier digital Ms; I have tried it on M8, M9 and M240.  At 'normal' distances the image quality from the 50 DR matches that of my Rigid 50 Summicron.

 

William

@a.noctilux

My DR is early version and the goggle come together has matched with the ball hole. May be my case is similar to William that require to work with later set of goggles when using on M10. May be I remove the black rubber to try again later.

On 4/19/2017 at 5:10 PM, chris_tribble said:

A.Noctilux covered SOMNI and OUFRO

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re usage, I have found that the EVF works really well with the SOMNI in close focus mode.  In order to use the lens this way all you need to do is to press down the ball catch once you've set the lens to close focus mode.  Needs no force.  The lens re-locks if you move too close to the .9m mark. 

NB - in order to use the SOMNI in close focus you HAVE to either use the goggles or Live View / EVF.  The RF on its own isn't accurate in close focus mode.

Is that RF really not accurate in close focus mode.