What do i have?

[slimeray]

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hey guys.... I have inherited a Leica M3 and i dont know much at all about it. i keep seeing terms like "single throw/double throw" and dont know how to properly identify it. Im not even sure if im going to keep it. With that said, can anyone help me out with the details of what i have as far as the camera and the lens? and perhaps what its worth? 

 

heres what i know.

Leica M3

purchased 1959

serial body - M3 - 966 148

serial lens - 1597506

 

thanks in advance,

Ray

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[dpitt]

Hello Ray

 

Welcome to the forum!

 

You have a single stroke M3 (if serial documentation is correct) made in 1959 and a 50mm Elmar F2.8 collapsible lens made in 1958 according to the serials.

From the outside they look in pretty good condition. But that does not say much about the functionality.

 

Single stroke means that to advance the film one frame one full throw with the lever is enough. With M3's before that period Leica thought it was more advisable to use 2 actions for one frame advance in order to reduce stress on the film. Those are called double stroke or DS.

 

This was and is still a very good camera. The first and according to some best rangefinder of the M series.

Your lens is still compatible with Leica M digital camera's and can produce very sharp results, even compared to current Leica lenses.

 

Look up how to load some film in the camera on youtube and enjoy it before even considering to sell it

 

Unfortunately we do not do valuations on this forum. It depends too much on the functional state of the camera anyway to be of much use.

Edited February 6, 2017 by dpitt

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[duckrider]

How to work with You can learn from the included manual.

Value can be studied by several ebay results or offers here in buy & sell section in the forum.

 

Play a little bit with camera and get a feeling if handling is smooth or stiff. smooth = good, stiff = bad

Listen to the long exposure times 1/8 - 1 sec: If there is a little noise running after the shutter has closed this is a good sign for exposure constancy.

Are the exposure times reproduceable?

Watch out for black "vulcanite" coat, it might be brittle after 60yrs., there is some of it missing on the back door around the film dial already.

 

scratches on the lens?

Haze in the inner parts?

Hairy traces = fungus  -> worst case! and lens is nearly without any value any more!

 

Are the blades oily or clean?

 

You see from my few questions it's impossible to give any valuation from photos here, and we don't do this for several good reasons anyway.

 

If You get used to the camera by playing and enjoying it; exposing a film etc.  - wellcome to the Leica-virus , not the worst disease one can have.

....and not the cheapest

Thomas

Edited February 7, 2017 by duckrider

[01af]

I've been told by a Leica technician in Wetzlar that any mechanical camera should be serviced before using it after sitting idle for an extended period of time, to avoid excessive wear and tear from debris and stale lubricants—even when everything seems to work smoothly.

[dpitt]

I was told that lubricants from before the eighties were not very good when sitting idle for years. If the camera has been serviced after that, chances are much higher that it is still fine. If it still functions smoothly and exposes correctly, it should be good to use IMO.

Edited February 7, 2017 by dpitt

[Herr Barnack]

Hi, Ray -

 

welcome to the forum!  You have inherited a very nice M3 and lens, which in my admittedly biased view would be a mistake to not keep and use.  As 01af rightly observed, your M3 and lens should be serviced before being used;  most people refer to this servicing as a CLA (Clean, Lubricate & Adjust) or an overhaul. 

 

I would recommend Sherry Krauter for this task http://www.sherrykrauter.com/ although there are also other repair technicians who do high quality work.  Leica M connoisseurs tend to be very loyal to their personal favorite when it comes to repair technicians; there are precious few truly qualified M camera repair specialists left in today's world.  It is very important to choose wisely when sending off your M camera or lens for repair or CLA.

Edited February 8, 2017 by Carlos Danger

[Frase]

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You don't need to wait for a service before using it if it works it works if not get it fixed, run a test roll of film through it you have them manual all the information you need is in there, good luck enjoy.

[michaelwj]

I've been told by a Leica technician in Wetzlar that any mechanical camera should be serviced before using it after sitting idle for an extended period of time, to avoid excessive wear and tear from debris and stale lubricants—even when everything seems to work smoothly.

Being cynical, this is a bit like having the car dealership tell you that if your car has sat idle for a short period of time then it will need to be taken back to the dealership for a service before you even turn it on. Because if you just turned it on you'd see that it actually worked fine and there was no need to spend 25% of the cars value getting it "serviced".

[wattsy]

Being cynical, this is a bit like having the car dealership tell you that if your car has sat idle for a short period of time then it will need to be taken back to the dealership for a service before you even turn it on. Because if you just turned it on you'd see that it actually worked fine and there was no need to spend 25% of the cars value getting it "serviced".

 

 

The classic response to that – and basic internet FUD – is to suggest that, even if it works, the old or "dry" lubricants will mean that you are going to be doing irreparable damage to your Leica. 

Edited February 9, 2017 by wattsy

[michaelwj]

The classic response to that – and basic internet FUD – is to suggest that, even if it works, the old or "dry" lubricants will mean that you are going to be doing irreparable damage to your Leica.

Everyone knows the best material to cut brass with is dried up grease. It cuts right through the brass gears which just have no defence to a good old bit of grease.

[slimeray]

this is all very good information. thanks!

Edited March 1, 2017 by slimeray

[250swb]

Put a film in and use it, only then will you know if you want to keep it. There is very much a retro film revival going on at the moment so at the very least you are sure to look very hipster with a film camera around your neck, at best you will love it.

[jaapv]

Being cynical, this is a bit like having the car dealership tell you that if your car has sat idle for a short period of time then it will need to be taken back to the dealership for a service before you even turn it on. Because if you just turned it on you'd see that it actually worked fine and there was no need to spend 25% of the cars value getting it "serviced".

Read your car manual. It should be serviced every 20000 km or every year whichever comes first.

[jaapv]

The classic response to that – and basic internet FUD – is to suggest that, even if it works, the old or "dry" lubricants will mean that you are going to be doing irreparable damage to your Leica. 

No it won't break but it will be nicer and more smooth to use with a CLA.

[pop]

Ask any watchmaker. Running a mechanism with "counter-effective" lubricants will put the bearings under stress. After some time, the bearings might become too loose or they might seize up (if that's the term I want).

[michaelwj]

No it won't break but it will be nicer and more smooth to use with a CLA.

I think that is highly dependent on who does the work.

[michaelwj]

Ask any watchmaker. Running a mechanism with "counter-effective" lubricants will put the bearings under stress. After some time, the bearings might become too loose or they might seize up (if that's the term I want).

What do you mean by "counter-effective lubricants"? Do you mean lubricants that don't lubricate?

 

By comparison, the mechanism in a watch is tiny and delicate.

[michaelwj]

Read your car manual. It should be serviced every 20000 km or every year whichever comes first.

Is this the same manual that voids the warranty if it doesn't go back to the dealer?? Either way, the manual is written by the company that stands to profit if you follow it. They're also making sure you don't sue them...

 

As an aside, 20k kms! That must be a new car! My car manual recommends every 5k kms or six months.

[pop]

What do you mean by "counter-effective lubricants"? Do you mean lubricants that don't lubricate?

 

By comparison, the mechanism in a watch is tiny and delicate.

The admonition applies to clocks as well, and they can be rather larger than the mechanism in a Leica.

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[jankap]

Ask any watchmaker. Running a mechanism with "counter-effective" lubricants will put the bearings under stress. After some time, the bearings might become too loose or they might seize up (if that's the term I want).

 

Please don´t ask watchmakers. Modern watchmakers can only change batteries. I have a mechanical clock for ships (Glasenuhr). After a CLA by a watchmaker (german master!) the damage had to be repaired by a specialist.

Jan