carstenw Posted June 19, 2007 Author Share #21 Posted June 19, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hmm, I tried using the 75 Lux at the near limit, and reshooting the rose with 19 shots (I could probably have done it with 12 careefully placed images), as well as just getting the whole thing in the picture with a single shot with the 75 Lux, and there really is very little difference between the three versions. The single shot has less DOF, but not so much that you would notice if you weren't alert. I think the missing dramatic perspective makes this use of a panorama program less useful, except for increasing resolution. The nicest one of the three was the 75 Lux 19 shot panorama, which I created in about 1 hour, instead of the 6 hours for the larger one. Live and learn. I will try a true macro panorama at some point instead, and see how that goes, as well as doing more regular panoramas with dramatically positioned foreground elements. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 19, 2007 Posted June 19, 2007 Hi carstenw, Take a look here 36 shot portrait panorama. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
andybarton Posted June 20, 2007 Share #22 Posted June 20, 2007 Brilliant work. I too have just bought Autopano Pro, but haven't had the time to work out how to edit the stitching points (the interface is pants, IMHO), but the output is what matters. I shall read your blog with interest. This one is a mere six shots (3x2), so nowhere near as ambitious or dramatic as your first one. http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/landscape-travel/27153-yet-another-wasdale-pano.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carstenw Posted June 21, 2007 Author Share #23 Posted June 21, 2007 Nice shot, Andy. Scotland? I don't know Wasdale... There is no way yet to manually add control points. What you need to do is to open the Panorama Editor window (bug button of the panorama preview area), open the Control Points Editor (fourth button from the left, of a node with a label, and then your entire panorama will show up with a connection graph overlaid. Click on the troublesome picture oval, or connection square, and you will see the two relevant pictures in the Control Points Editor. Select the overlapping area in each picture, and click the "add control points in the selected area" button (a bunch of little plusses, and one big one). It should find some more control points. Then click the optimise panorama button (little graph icon with a blue gear). There is more to it, and I am no expert, but this should help the stitch along. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sirvine Posted August 2, 2007 Share #24 Posted August 2, 2007 I finally got a chance to toy with autopano. This is only a 3-shot (vertical) stitch. Everything about it was sloppy, but autopano does a terrific job of keeping detail even in the distorted upper corners. The actual output is about 5500 x 4400 JPEG. Once you get used to the odd interface, autopano is pretty cool. Any HDR effect is just pre-processing in Lightroom to maximize DR. Bigger version here: solsphere Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/26898-36-shot-portrait-panorama/?do=findComment&comment=319413'>More sharing options...
Philinflash Posted August 2, 2007 Share #25 Posted August 2, 2007 Great shot, if just a little disturbing. The aleinated waife in the eerily deserted and distorted urban landscape?? But seriously, a little bit more about your technique, please. Did you maintain the same focus and same exposure settings throughout the shoot? And have you tried doing the same thing in PhotoShop and, if so, how does your software compare? I am becoming increasingly intrigued by the stitching, or merging, of images that has been made possible in the digital era. I am an old Hasselblad SuperWide user and always relished the content I cojuld get on a single 6x6. However, now I am really digging the combination of M8 and PS Photomerge (with a touch of Perspective Control) to come up with even deeper panorama possibilities. Philip Kozloff Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carstenw Posted August 2, 2007 Author Share #26 Posted August 2, 2007 Philip, are you referring to the initial shot, or the latest? With 'waif' it sounds like my portrait shot. All shot at the same exposure, on a tripod, but not with a proper panorama head. I shot two quick ones to cover Jana before she could move, and then just shot all around her at my leisure. Autopano Pro stitched it fairly automatically. I shot at perhaps 1,5m with a 50 Lux Asph wide open. I have not tried Photoshop. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_g Posted August 2, 2007 Share #27 Posted August 2, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Well, I was ill all weekend, so apart from sleeping, blowing my nose and drinking tea, I did a lot of work on these panoramas. Today I redid the problematic rose, and here is the final result. I still want to darken that spot in the top-left corner. Can anyone suggest the best way of doing that in Photoshop Elements 3 on the Mac? 100 images went into this one. The exact procedure is written in my photo blog below. I cropped it square as a nod to my old Hasselblad 500C, which I kinda miss using. I love this medium/large format look, and I am so pleased that it is possible to get this with the M8, even with restrictions. Carsten, getting rid of the spot in the left hand corner is easy. I'm pretty sure that Photoshop Elements has the clone stamp tool, use that, sample the brown close to the white spot and paint the white spot out with the sampled colour, sample various parts of the brown area and paint over to get a little variation in the tone, adjust your brush so that it has a soft edge. I've had a look at Autopano Pro and it looks pretty good although I can't save the image to check carefully the quality of the stich in Photoshop. I've been using the Hugin GUI front end to Panotools and the Autopano Sift progamme up to now (both freeware) but they are not perfect. I find the hardest problem in stiching is matching colour with perfect blue skies, the lens vignetting makes the blue darker at the edge of frame causing mismatching on the overlaps, even extensive masking and painting in Photoshop will not always give a perfect continous blue tone. I hoping that the vignetting on the M8 will be less of a problem than my Hasselblad due to the 1.33 crop. I would suggest a better overlap is more like 40 per cent BTW, for this reason and others. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philinflash Posted August 2, 2007 Share #28 Posted August 2, 2007 Philip, are you referring to the initial shot, or the latest? With 'waif' it sounds like my portrait shot. All shot at the same exposure, on a tripod, but not with a proper panorama head. I shot two quick ones to cover Jana before she could move, and then just shot all around her at my leisure. Autopano Pro stitched it fairly automatically. I shot at perhaps 1,5m with a 50 Lux Asph wide open. I have not tried Photoshop. Yes, the Paris (I think) street location. Thanks for confirming my expectations. It seems to be fairly important to not touch the exposure and/or focus once you have started, lest you get a patchwork effect. While I know that seems obvious, some might be tempted to just leave it on Auto. With PS CS 3, I find it is not critical to have the camera on a tripod, although that should be the ideal. I have had good results with a monopod (keep it on the same spot if possible) but even hand-held with a little bit of judicious body rotation from one standing spot. The software is good enough at matching up the pixels that my movement is forgiven. It only seems to need about 20% overlap, as well. I am sure you appreciate that your portrait would have been bloody neigh on impossible with film and even the widest lens. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philinflash Posted August 2, 2007 Share #29 Posted August 2, 2007 ... I hoping that the vignetting on the M8 will be less of a problem than my Hasselblad due to the 1.33 crop. I would suggest a better overlap is more like 40 per cent BTW, for this reason and others. Obviously, vignetting depends to a great deal on the lens. I have not had a problem with my Leica lenses (ASPH), hence that may be why I think I can get away with 20% overlap while you recommend 40%. Of course, conservative is better, if you have the time, etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakley Posted August 2, 2007 Share #30 Posted August 2, 2007 Now that's really interesting. With this technique you can build "physically impossible" photos - photos in which the area of sharp focus is not a plane, so you couldn't even take them on a view camera with movements. I think the rose photo may already be one of these, but I'm not completely sure. If you try this again and are willing to move the tripod around, you can probably get a picture that looks like something out of MC Escher - leaves at different levels in focus in a helical staircase pattern, with leaves at the same levels out of focus elsewhere in the shot. Thanks very much for posting this! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sirvine Posted August 3, 2007 Share #31 Posted August 3, 2007 Autopano is very flexible. For my shots over the Antwerp courtyard above, I had exposure on auto. All I did was apply the same develop settings in Lightroom, set WB as the same in all images, and tweaked the DR with fill light and recovery. Then I exported these to TIFFs and imported the TIFFs to autopano. I've improved the color on the version on my website since the posting above. Here's a 100% crop for reference to the scale: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/26898-36-shot-portrait-panorama/?do=findComment&comment=319680'>More sharing options...
Stephen.s1 Posted August 3, 2007 Share #32 Posted August 3, 2007 All technique aside, the first shot is a stunner! Just clone the upper left corner you're interested in. Lets see some more of these. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philinflash Posted August 3, 2007 Share #33 Posted August 3, 2007 Now that's really interesting. With this technique you can build "physically impossible" photos - photos in which the area of sharp focus is not a plane, so you couldn't even take them on a view camera with movements. I think the rose photo may already be one of these, but I'm not completely sure. If you try this again and are willing to move the tripod around, you can probably get a picture that looks like something out of MC Escher - leaves at different levels in focus in a helical staircase pattern, with leaves at the same levels out of focus elsewhere in the shot. Thank you for your posting, too, Blakley. It rasies some stimulating possibilities. For instance, suppose Sol Irvine shot his Antwerp scene above in this thread at various times of day from a single fixed camera position but so that all sides of the interior courtyard are in sun, rather than some in shade. Would that be weird or wonderful? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carstenw Posted August 3, 2007 Author Share #34 Posted August 3, 2007 Yes, the Paris (I think) street location. Thanks for confirming my expectations. It seems to be fairly important to not touch the exposure and/or focus once you have started, lest you get a patchwork effect. While I know that seems obvious, some might be tempted to just leave it on Auto. With PS CS 3, I find it is not critical to have the camera on a tripod, although that should be the ideal. I have had good results with a monopod (keep it on the same spot if possible) but even hand-held with a little bit of judicious body rotation from one standing spot. The software is good enough at matching up the pixels that my movement is forgiven. It only seems to need about 20% overlap, as well. I am sure you appreciate that your portrait would have been bloody neigh on impossible with film and even the widest lens. Yes, sure. The whole point was to get a wide angle shot with the depth of field of a tele, ie. a medium/large format look. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ho_co Posted August 3, 2007 Share #35 Posted August 3, 2007 With PS CS 3, I find it is not critical to have the camera on a tripod, although that should be the ideal. ... The software is good enough at matching up the pixels that my movement is forgiven. It only seems to need about 20% overlap, as well. Philip-- That sounds like quite an improvement over CS2! I may need to check out the upgrade! --HC Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pham Minh Son Posted August 3, 2007 Share #36 Posted August 3, 2007 Carsten, congratulation with another protocol! The image of the flower is lovely and of course your little model did a very nice job herself. I am also going to do some stitching using the P20 and Capture One Pro but nothing like in your league here. -Son Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhleo Posted August 3, 2007 Share #37 Posted August 3, 2007 Carsten, congratulations for your rose panorama. It is amazing. I only recently discovered AutoPano. I love it, but have been less successful than you in obtaining stunning picture. I arrived with too many control points and have difficulties in finding the right balance between too many and too few. How did you do it for the "rose"? Thanks, mhleo Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carstenw Posted August 3, 2007 Author Share #38 Posted August 3, 2007 Marie-Helene, it was really hard. You have to experiment with the control points editor to get it to accept the overlapping areas. I used a 90 Macro quite close to the rose, btw. In Autopano Pro, to add control points to connect images which should be connected but aren't detected, you need to go into the control point editor, select the same area on both pictures, and click one of the green + buttons. I have to run out the door right now, as I am going to Hamburg for the weekend, but if you don't figure it out by the time I get back, I can make a mini-tutorial. Just bring the thread back to the top on Tuesday and I will not forget Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhleo Posted August 3, 2007 Share #39 Posted August 3, 2007 Thank you. This is very kind of you. going to try during the WE and get back to you, hopefully with an example... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carstenw Posted August 7, 2007 Author Share #40 Posted August 7, 2007 Hello Marie-Helene, did you have enough time to shoot, and figure it all out with respect to stitching? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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