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The view through older Glass


farnz

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Bruno, thanks for posting these! I'm very happy to see results of this lens, which is one that I have been wondering about. It renders beautifully and it handled the strong light in the first image impressively.

 

I have the Hektor 2,8cm f6.3 myself which is equally laughable specs-wise but which is still very nice to use. Though it does vignette on occasion.

 

8149058305_e895ab6178_c.jpg

Beach. Heron Island, 2012 | Flickr

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Thanks to you too, Philipus. Looking at that picture made me feel like to fly there...

 

As to the Summaron, for all those who have an itch for it here's the story:

First, the bad.

- It's painfully slow (5.6... pfff!)

- It's very prone to develop internal haze like its sibling 35/3.5 and like this latter it's practically impossible to find with clean glass unless it's been CLAed. Mine was not and had to. Happily the good folks of SAMCA here in Genoa charged a very reasonable fee and did an excellent work.

- It's very prone to flare and ghost. In my pictures it didn't because I shielded the lens in the shade of the trunk or covered it by one hand

- It normally comes with no shade itself and this latter commands a ridiculously high price as it's very rare and thus makes a collectible (the hell with all those collectors and their bottomless wallets! :) ). The same goes for the separate viewfinder, the 12007.

- It was made in little numbers therefore it normally sells at an overinflated price. Suffice to say that you get one for barely 200/300 € less than an used Elmarit 28 Asph...

 

Now the good.

- It's built like a tank. It is one of the densest lenses I ever handled, meaning it's very heavy given its size

- It's tiny. One of the most pocketable Leica lenses ever, beaten only by the MS Perar 35 and probably by the Hektor 28 and Elmar 35

- It delivers consistent imagery and it's evenly sharp on most part of the field. It suffers a bit only in the corners. It's much better than its sibling 35/3.5 which is never sharp from end to end at whatever aperture

- It delivers that unmistakable Leica classic look and excellent plasticity. The CV 28/3.5 which I considered as an alternative is sharper and cheaper but the imagery it provides is definitely flatter. More specifically, like many asphericals it has a very abrupt transition from in focus to out of focus and peoples shot at full aperture sometimes look like cardboard figures glued on a fuzzy background. IMHO, of course.

- It's got no distortion to speak of.

- It fits either my M9 and my IIIf. Mounted on this latter it makes a powerful and sneaky tool. It literally disappears in a jacket pocket.

- Its slowness is not as bad as it might appear. Its uniform rendering makes it a suitable tool for landscapes and for that one doesn't need high speeds. Usually the best are - what a coincidence - 5.6 and 8.

I'm not that much into street photography, but if I had to, I'd mount it on the IIIf loaded with at least a 400/27 ISO film. Focused on 3m, depth of field at 5.6 takes care of everything between 1.70 and 10m.

 

All in all, if I had to make again a rational choice I'd probably go for an Elmarit 28 Asph, but then those images wouldn't be admitted in the coolest thread of this forum ;)

 

Cheers,

Bruno

Edited by !Nomad64
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Excellent write-up Bruno. Much of what you write there is very useful advice for all kinds of photography.

 

My Hektor also flares fairly easily so one must be a bit careful when using it. Here's an example where I didn't care at all...didn't work very well :o

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Wish everyone had a nice weekend.

 

Trying out this combination yesterday:

 

Boyer Saphir 60mm 1.4 + Leica-M Monocrhom

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Here are some pictures from a 1938 uncoated Carl Zeiss Jena 50/1.5 Sonnar. The lens was made by combining the Sonnar with a Jupiter 3 rear end to transform it into a LTM by forum member brianv, who posted earlier in this thread but has sadly left the forum over disagreements over postings in the ill-fated SLR Magic 50/0.92 Hyperprime threads. Brian made a superb job of the lens and is well-known for his expertise in breathing life back into rangefinder lenses that are nearing death and for marrying lens parts to create usable lenses. It is a tiny jewel of a lens and I am well pleased with it. Thank you, Brian.

 

All are shot wide open with a 3-stop ND filter and I have included the last shot to illustrate why lenses are now coated.;)

 

Pete.

 

Toi-toi bush

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Sugar Maple leaves

 

100% crop to show sharpness

 

Lady runner

 

Uh-oh, lens flare.

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One day there'll be a couple SLR Magics out there that still work and the shots will go on a thread similar to this. Until then, keep up the great shots all; this is becoming a thread not just for the photos themselves, but as a useful reference to those interested in "older glass"

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Sharing an old lens from Ross London Xtralux 50mm f2 LTM on M9ti this weekend.

 

The coating is a bit yellowish but didn't affect the photos too much~~~in fact it's giving the photo an vintage feel

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A couple more images taken with the 1947 35mm Summaron. The second shot is a crop of the first, to show the web.

 

philip

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here are a few infrared shots from the same red scale Elmar I have demonstrated- the red one is straight out of m8 with no adjustments- the black and white one has have been processed in s-efex- I need to figure out how to properly treat these files- can one 'channel mix' in LR- or is it best in PS?

 

why did they ever remove IR markings from lenses? It is so handy! And not a big cost saver to remove either.

 

I am also using an elmar era vintage Leica R.d. elmar filter. The filter is a little scratched and cost me $25 on ebay... the Elmar (pristine) was an absolute steal $5 found in the bottom of a box at a flea market... :) The R.d filter seems very similar to the B+W 092 IR filter and works well on the m8:

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Jaques,

 

I do my IR pp in LR. I don't use channel mixing because I'm using a 093 'deep black' filter, which stops everything up to about 800 nm so no visible light gets through and 'faux colour' IR isn't possible. I developed a preset a few years ago that I use as a default process, which sets the highlight level so that sunlit foliage appears stark white and the black level at the appropriate shadow floor. From there I tweak the levels to suit. A couple of examples below using my M8 with a Kobalux 21/2.8 and 093 filter hand-held and wide open. I appreciate that the stark whites and high contrast aren't to everyone's taste but I like 'em.:)

 

Pete.

 

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Sharing few photos taken earlier this year in Shanghai using the following setup :

 

Hugo Meyer Kino Plasmat 75mm f1.5 + M9

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