Recommendation for a 50mm Summicron

[Robert M Poole]

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For 50mm lenses 6-bit coding can be useful to get the name of the lens in the exif data.

If it's not 6bit you can still manually set it in the menus.

 

www.robertpoolephotography.com

[lct]

Also focusing is slower on v3 due to a longer focus throw compared to v4. But v3 has no focus shift i'm aware of whereas v4 and v5 have a bit of it around f/4. Nothing to worry about on 3D subjects though. 

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[Beena22]

For 50mm lenses 6-bit coding can be useful to get the name of the lens in the exif data.

Gotcha. Thank you.

[Beena22]

I bought a v5 at Christmas and worried I'd miss the focus tab but I really don't. I sold a Summarit to get it and although this was a fantastic lens I always wanted the Cron...

 

I also came from Fuji (x100 and xe) and they're still fantastic cameras I can't bear to part with them. I kept the xe1 just to use legacy lenses on which can be fun, I've been itching to pick up a Jupiter actually.

 

I think you'll like the m9 as it boils down the experience to the basics even more than the Fujis do.

 

www.robertpoolephotography.com

That's exactly the reason for getting the M9 - to pare it down to basics and have a pure experience. I also really miss the CCD files from my old X100. I upgraded to the X100T and although it is a far superior camera in every way to the original it is missing that certain something that the original files had. I find I don't really use it and I'm going to sell it to part fund the M9.

 

I have three Jupiter lenses and I can wholeheartedly recommend them. They were great on the XE1 and even better on the A7. The Jupiter 3 is a belter of a lens as long as you get a good copy and the 8 IS equally as nice and can be had for peanuts. I also have the 11 which makes a nice 200mm on the XE1 but is a bit of a pain to focus due to the refresh rate of the EVF.

[vanGeist]

Gotcha. Thank you.

Well, 6-bit coding is primarily for auto-detection of the lens, so that the camera can apply automatic corrections for vignetting.

[Robert M Poole]

That's exactly the reason for getting the M9 - to pare it down to basics and have a pure experience. I also really miss the CCD files from my old X100. I upgraded to the X100T and although it is a far superior camera in every way to the original it is missing that certain something that the original files had. I find I don't really use it and I'm going to sell it to part fund the M9.

 

I have three Jupiter lenses and I can wholeheartedly recommend them. They were great on the XE1 and even better on the A7. The Jupiter 3 is a belter of a lens as long as you get a good copy and the 8 IS equally as nice and can be had for peanuts. I also have the 11 which makes a nice 200mm on the XE1 but is a bit of a pain to focus due to the refresh rate of the EVF.

I have a constant dialogue with a friend who is a major Fuji user who says, "if you don't want the feature don't use it" but I lost interest in Fuji when they started get more and more features swiveling LCD, toy camera modes etc. The m9 is great, I don't miss video or sweep panorama etc. It's not perfect by any stretch mind, I sometimes miss close focusing and if you shoot too many shots in a row it buffers but then it isn't a run and gun camera. I'd like an ISO dial like the new m10 is rumoured to have but the dedicated button on the back works well.

 

I've promised myself no more gear until I've mastered my m9 and my new cron. Apparently you can use Jupiter lenses on your m9 with the right adaptor but the focus is usually off and needs shims.

 

www.robertpoolephotography.com

[bocaburger]

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I've had every version of the Summicron made, and there really isn't a bad one in the bunch.  Currently I'm down to two, a collapsible in LTM (with adapter) and a 11819 (current optics but with tab and separate hood).  My collapsible happens to have perfect coatings, but it's hard to find one in that condition at a reasonable price.  Same goes for the V2 rigid.  Even with perfect coatings, flare can be an issue if you're not careful.  The 11817 is probably the best bang for the buck...excellent optical and build quality at a reasonable price.  But if you can swing a V4 or V5, those have better coatings and more even performance out to the corners at wider apertures and in the close range.  Personally I prefer the V4 for its light weight and the tab, and a hood that actually functions especially with a filter on the lens. 

[mmx_2]

For us with 3D-printer, there is actually a kind person that made a 3D-printable focus tab addon on thingiverse. When I had the summicron V5 I used this a lot. In the end the flare "issue" with the lens made me sell it. Here is the tab:

 

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:96500

 

 

I bought a v5 at Christmas and worried I'd miss the focus tab but I really don't. I sold a Summarit to get it and although this was a fantastic lens I always wanted the Cron...

 

I also came from Fuji (x100 and xe) and they're still fantastic cameras I can't bear to part with them. I kept the xe1 just to use legacy lenses on which can be fun, I've been itching to pick up a Jupiter actually.

 

I think you'll like the m9 as it boils down the experience to the basics even more than the Fujis do.

 

www.robertpoolephotography.com

Edited January 2, 2017 by mmx_2

[dpitt]

I like the v1(collapsible) and v2 rigid for its smooth rendering and also colors. But you have to find a really good sample without cleaning marks and give it a CLA to get that.

The collapsible is really great because it is a very compact and fast performer, and if you can find a good one, it will be the best value for money.

 

The tabbed v4 is better overall, with more contrast and sharpness, and less flare prone. But somehow I like the colors of the oldies (v1 and v2) better. It is a safe bet, but will cost a few hundred more than the v1.

[Michael Geschlecht]

The M4 was my first Leica as well. This 0.7m lens is a v2 (11818) IINW.

 

LeicaM_5020_11818n_box.jpg

 

3.jpg

 

 

Hello LCT,

 

While the box in the photo does show a 11818 rigid bright chrome 7 element Summicron the lens in the photo with the box is the 11817 next version, 6 element successor to the lens on the box.

 

The version that you have is the early scalloped knurled version which was later itself replaced with the knurled version without scallops. Both of which are designated 11817.

 

There is no  Infinity Lock on either of the 11817 lenses.

 

For about 2 millimeters at the point where the lens attaches to the camera the 11817 (both versions) has a straight lens tube while the earlier 11818 has an angled lens tube. As is shown in the drawing on the box.

 

The lens in the photo with the knurled scallops is relatively uncommon which makes it both a users lens & a collectors lens at the same time.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

[finarphin]

I have an older 50mm collapsible and I regard it as my best lens.  I haven't used any of the other 50mm Summicrons, though.

[TRIago]

Do yourself a favor and get the Rigid. Seriously.

 

 

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[Universalb50]

Maybe you should give consideration to buying the best example of whichever Summicron version you can possibly afford with emphasis on condition of the optics, less on condition of the mount...and then spend any money left over on a tripod? I like V4, can't afford APO, and was dissatisfied with collapsible! As you may not realize, DR cannot be used with digital. All are better at producing images than I am as a photographer!

[james.liam]

Also focusing is slower on v3 due to a longer focus throw compared to v4. But v3 has no focus shift i'm aware of whereas v4 and v5 have a bit of it around f/4. Nothing to worry about on 3D subjects though. 

 

 

Yes and no re: v5.

When I owned one and shifted from an M6 to a Monochrom and wasn't aware of this characteristic, quite a few shoots were rendered useless when I relied on ƒ2.8-5.6 too heavily; noting that specifically ƒ/2.8 and 5.6 were perfectly fine.

If you aren't particular about which subject in a grouping is in focus, yes, you're right. Not so when there's a specific desired subject within a grouping.

[lct]

All bodies and lenses are not equal James. We can only share our experience with them. My 50/2 v4 and v5 are as i said above. Negligible focus shift around f/4 when shooting 3D subjects. YMMV.

[RayD28]

Lots of good information in this thread.  I had a Version V but sold it to get a 1.4 ASPH.  One of the reasons I sold the V (albeit secondary) was flaring.  How does the IV compare to the V in handling flare?  

 

Also, are there any significant improvements to the V lens coating compared to IV?  

 

Thanks for any input you can provide.  

[lct]

Due to different coatings, i guess, my 50/2 v4 flares a bit more than my 50/2 v5. see:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4RKCr3w/0/2a1f58ed/L/i-4RKCr3w-L.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-BvXmk5v/0/57160344/L/i-BvXmk5v-L.jpg

 

[PCPix]

I have a tatty v.3 off ebay and the one thing not mentioned in all the comments so far is that it's the cheapest of the lot. It's also arguably the smallest. The long throw focus ring, although slower, allows more precise focussing. It's pefrfectly sharp and I couldnt really say why it the least loved of the Summicron 50s - but I guess one of them has to have that 'accolade'! I have previously owned a Dual Range version which was lovely. The best advice would be to find any Summicron 50 that fits your budget, and if your budget is large, then it's the APO...

[RayD28]

Due to different coatings, i guess, my 50/2 v4 flares a bit more than my 50/2 v5. see:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4RKCr3w/0/2a1f58ed/L/i-4RKCr3w-L.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-BvXmk5v/0/57160344/L/i-BvXmk5v-L.jpg

 

 

lct, thanks for posting.  Just my opinion, but the flaring in those shots does not seem too bad given the light source and position of the lamp in the frame.  Under normal conditions and using the hoods, how do the two lenses compare?  

 

My experience with the V was consistent flair when there was a strong light source at about 45 degrees above the frame, even when using the hood, and rare occurrences when the sun was directly in the frame.   

 

Once again, thanks for the input.  

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[lct]

50/2 v3 (11817) has a removable optical cell but v4 is shorter if memory serves.