leicadude Posted December 27, 2016 Share #1 Posted December 27, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) I hope this makes sense! I am not a pro or expert like so many here. I often read that shooting RAW is so much better! I have Lightroom, but RAW looks bad out of the box and I can't spend hours editing each photo. The JPEGs look really nice but I would like to improve if I can. My old Leica X1 created amazing JPEG images out of the camera. Seriously, I look back at those images and can't believe it. Question: is there a way to easily develop the X 113 RAW files to get a Leica X1 look? Thanks in advance! Rudy Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted December 27, 2016 Posted December 27, 2016 Hi leicadude, Take a look here X 113 Raw - Is there an "easy" button to develop?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
ropo54 Posted December 27, 2016 Share #2 Posted December 27, 2016 Rudy, Import your photo into LR, go to the "Develop" tab on top and then click on the options "WB" and choose CUSTOM, AUTO, AS SHOT as you like; then go to "TONE" and try clicking on AUTO, or manually adjusting the sliders to your end result preference. Those are the simplest commands that may make a difference for you. Rob 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwF Posted December 27, 2016 Share #3 Posted December 27, 2016 Hi Rudy, I use Photoshop and I sharpen the file when converting my DNG. I would recommend doing that with your files. The converting software you have I think is the same (Adobe). When I open after conversion, I then adjust tonality using "curves". In curves, I begin by establishing the outer parameters first (black-white) so as to get maximum detail in those areas and then work on adjusting the middle ground. I think that the X-113 JPEGs are good, but almost always use RAW because there is simply more to work with there. My Best, David 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicadude Posted December 27, 2016 Author Share #4 Posted December 27, 2016 Rob/David, thank you for the tips! What do you think about plugins like Topaz? https://www.topazlabs.com Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ropo54 Posted December 27, 2016 Share #5 Posted December 27, 2016 Rob/David, thank you for the tips! What do you think about plugins like Topaz? https://www.topazlabs.com I don't know Topaz. If you want really quick, use Photos (Apple) and tweaking is pretty simple. The end result, however, is not as 'sophisticated' as LR's. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwF Posted December 27, 2016 Share #6 Posted December 27, 2016 I am not familiar with Topaz. I have just begun learning Capture One. My feeling is, if you are going to process from RAW, it's worth using good "sophisticated" as Rob says, software and learning it. The good news about that is that you don't need to do a whole lot with your files and can take it at your own pace to nuance your processing. LR should be all you need! David 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ropo54 Posted December 27, 2016 Share #7 Posted December 27, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) I am not familiar with Topaz. I have just begun learning Capture One. My feeling is, if you are going to process from RAW, it's worth using good "sophisticated" as Rob says, software and learning it. The good news about that is that you don't need to do a whole lot with your files and can take it at your own pace to nuance your processing. LR should be all you need! David BTW, Capture One allows a free 30 day trial, so, you might explore that option too. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwF Posted December 29, 2016 Share #8 Posted December 29, 2016 Yes it does and the 30 day trial is what I am doing. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wda Posted December 29, 2016 Share #9 Posted December 29, 2016 Rudy I do recommend spending a little time learning about Lightroom because once you understand the basics it is very rewarding. Also search in this forum for links to online tutorials by Kost. There is no secret button to avoid a little learning and you will become the richer as a result. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicadude Posted January 1, 2017 Author Share #10 Posted January 1, 2017 Thanks for the help! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 1, 2017 Share #11 Posted January 1, 2017 Hi Rudy, I use Photoshop and I sharpen the file when converting my DNG. I would recommend doing that with your files. The converting software you have I think is the same (Adobe). When I open after conversion, I then adjust tonality using "curves". In curves, I begin by establishing the outer parameters first (black-white) so as to get maximum detail in those areas and then work on adjusting the middle ground. I think that the X-113 JPEGs are good, but almost always use RAW because there is simply more to work with there. My Best, David Not best practice. In PS you should sharpen in three steps: Capture sharpening in ACR to get as good a file to work on without artefacts, creative sharpening during postprocessing and output sharpening to prepare your file for print and web, which is about creating small halos to give an impression of sharpness without becoming visible on the medium when viewed from the intended distance. I recommend "Real World Image Sharpening" by Schewe and Fraser, which, despite getting somewhat long in tooth is still the best book on the subject. Failing that, try this PDF: http://www.pixelgenius.com/tips/schewe-sharpening.pdf 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZDavid Posted January 2, 2017 Share #12 Posted January 2, 2017 Agree LR is useful for adjusting WB. Also, check out Graphic Converter (available for Macs) at www.lemkesoft.com. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwF Posted January 6, 2017 Share #13 Posted January 6, 2017 Not best practice. In PS you should sharpen in three steps: Capture sharpening in ACR to get as good a file to work on without artefacts, creative sharpening during postprocessing and output sharpening to prepare your file for print and web, which is about creating small halos to give an impression of sharpness without becoming visible on the medium when viewed from the intended distance. I recommend "Real World Image Sharpening" by Schewe and Fraser, which, despite getting somewhat long in tooth is still the best book on the subject. Failing that, try this PDF: http://www.pixelgenius.com/tips/schewe-sharpening.pdf Agh! There goes all the fun! I appreciate your sharing the PDF though -very informative if overwhelming as Mr. Schewe concedes in the writing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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