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12 hours ago, Jimmyp82 said:

Yeah so I loaded another film in the correct manner and all seemed fine. 

Before loading the film I also shot through two lots of 36 shots empty, just to see if the issue presented itself but it didn't. 

So it seems right now that it was due to how the film was loaded. 

Now that you have it right, you are set. Enjoy!

Oh, and if you are ever tempted to tighten the film in the canister by rewinding it against the advanced film to “take up the slack” - don’t. Totally unnecessary and will very likely cause problems. 

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19 minutes ago, Mute-on said:

Oh, and if you are ever tempted to tighten the film in the canister by rewinding it against the advanced film to “take up the slack” - don’t. Totally unnecessary and will very likely cause problems. 

Oops, I do that every time, always have done with my Nikon too. I’ve not had any issues yet. What problems can it cause?

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1 hour ago, ianman said:

Oops, I do that every time, always have done with my Nikon too. I’ve not had any issues yet. What problems can it cause?

Honestly, probably nothing more serious than changing frame spacing for the first part of the roll when the majority of film is in the cassette. This seems to cause some people great concern. Can’t say I’ve ever paid any attention to frame spacing. The reality is it’s just not necessary AFAIK. 

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Hello Everybody,

I think that the frame spacing is determined by the spacing of the teeth in the winding mechanism & how many degrees they turn each winding sequence.

Taking up the slack, once the film has been properly anchored, flattens out the film going thru the winding process. Snugging gently, NOT tightening, is OK.

Best Regards,

Michael

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7 hours ago, jakontil said:

I always do rewind to tighten it so the dots are turning when i advanced the film, otherwise im worried lol

I do it with every camera I have.  It's how you tell that the film is advancing correctly.  Just snug it lightly, do not tighten.

Thing is, I only care at the beginning.  Once you see those dots (or rewind lever) move when you advance the film, you are good.  No need to keep on doing it, unless you really feel you want to.

The great thing about cameras like the MP, the MA, M3, M2 is that the outer part of the rewind spool is disconnected from the inner part where the rotating dots are, unless you lift it up.  This means that once you snug it, you don't have to be concerned about accidentally moving the outer part which may loosen up the film in the cassette again.  Meaning the dots won't rotate until that play is taken up.

With cameras like the M6, M7, M4 etc, because the entire knob mechanism rotates, it is easy to accidentally unwind the film in the cassette just by brushing against it.  It doesn't harm anything, just prevents you from having a visual confirmation of the film advancing correctly until that slack is taken up again.

So score one for the old style MP rewind knob!  Huzzah!

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2 minutes ago, Huss said:

I do it with every camera I have.  It's how you tell that the film is advancing correctly.  Just snug it lightly, do not tighten.

Thing is, I only care at the beginning.  Once you see those dots (or rewind lever) move when you advance the film, you are good.  No need to keep on doing it, unless you really feel you want to.

The great thing about cameras like the MP, the MA, M3, M2 is that the outer part of the rewind spool is disconnected from the inner part where the rotating dots are, unless you lift it up.  This means that once you snug it, you don't have to be concerned about accidentally moving the outer part which may loosen up the film in the cassette again.  Meaning the dots won't rotate until that play is taken up.

With cameras like the M6, M7, M4 etc, because the entire knob mechanism rotates, it is easy to accidentally unwind the film in the cassette just by brushing against it.  It doesn't harm anything, just prevents you from having a visual confirmation of the film advancing correctly until that slack is taken up again.

So score one for the old style MP rewind knob!  Huzzah!

Apology, exactly what i meant, just do it at the beginning and snug it lightly, a turn or a couple

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Be careful not to over tighten the film in the cassette. Here is an example of stress marks from the film being wound too tightly around the spool. This roll of TMax was switched between a couple of different cameras and finally finished in my M4. Took a while to track down the answer:

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10 hours ago, jakontil said:

Weird thought more like developing problem

There was a long discussion about it on Photrio and the initial thought was surge marks or a light leak but something happened during development. The problem was it only affected the last few inches of the roll. Finally, someone mentioned the possibility of stress marks then everything made sense. That roll was difficult to advance for the last few frames, which was unusual. Rewinding was stiff for the first few turns of the crank. The roll had been switched from a Retina IIa to the M4. When I was rewinding it to remove it from the Kodak, at some point it was wound too tightly to the cassette spool. Learned my lesson.

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8 hours ago, madNbad said:

There was a long discussion about it on Photrio and the initial thought was surge marks or a light leak but something happened during development. The problem was it only affected the last few inches of the roll. Finally, someone mentioned the possibility of stress marks then everything made sense. That roll was difficult to advance for the last few frames, which was unusual. Rewinding was stiff for the first few turns of the crank. The roll had been switched from a Retina IIa to the M4. When I was rewinding it to remove it from the Kodak, at some point it was wound too tightly to the cassette spool. Learned my lesson.

Sorry I’m lost, did you respool yourself? 

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2 hours ago, jakontil said:

Sorry I’m lost, did you respool yourself? 

No, it was a factory cassette. When it was in the Retina IIa, I had only exposed a few frames. I bought a new lens for the M4 and decided to use that roll instead of a new one. The Retina had been on the shelf for a while and most likely I had snuggled up the rewind to check if there was film in it, definitely more than once. This most likely how the film was tightened around the spool in the cassette. Reading about stress marks on film, it happens most often when the film reaches the end and the user tries to squeeze out additional frames. It looks like a developing problem but it’s the film being stressed by winding too tight or stretching too far. Hope that makes sense.

Edited by madNbad
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2 hours ago, Stevejack said:

Should the film backing plate on the MP be loose / wobbly? Mine has quite a bit of play. I can’t remember my M3 being like this but it has film in it and I can’t check right now. 

Looks very odd and not normal in my experience. I would unscrew the four little screws and have a look behind the plate to see what might have happened?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, my MP this afternoon...

 

 

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Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!


Got a trip planned for next month. Will be keeping it simple with one camera, one lens and one film stock

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17 hours ago, Sunyforreal said:

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

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Got a trip planned for next month. Will be keeping it simple with one camera, one lens and one film stock

Nice.  I'm leaving this week for a 3 week trip to Italy and bringing my MP, a Summilux 50 and mostly TMax 400. 

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