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    • By leic.a.nik
      Moin zusammen,
       
      ich habe seit ca. 4 Wochen das Problem, dass meine M2 manchmal den Film beim Spannen nicht richtig transportiert. 
      Die Bilder überlappen sich dann. Man merkt es beim Spannen, der Spannhebel springt dann.
      Der Fehler tritt meistens auf wenn der Zähler bereits bei 20 -25 Bildern steht. Ich habe das Gefühl, dass der Film zwischendurch die Spannung verliert oder über die Zähne rutscht. 
      Ist jemanden so etwas schon mal passiert oder kennt sogar jemand die Lösung?
      Im Moment elf ich mir in dem ich ein Bild mit Objektivdeckel mache wenn ich merke dass der Film nicht transportiert wurde. 
      Gerade bei teuren oder alten Schätzen verliere ich so meist 4-6 Bilder was ehrlich gesagt sehr schade ist.
      Gerade bei Filmen wie einen Fuji Superia Reala 100 oder Kodak Ektachrome 160t 
       
      Die kleine ist mein Ein und alles. 
      Bitte helft mir. 
       
      Mit freundlichen Grüßen 
       
      Nik 
       
       
       
    • By camalogica
      Hi everybody,
      I’m a computer science engineer who has been working, as a hobby, the last three years in a new, more precise, way of recreating film look with digital cameras.
      I’m posting here for feedback, in case anybody of you would like to test the application (with the M9) and show the results and your opinions.
      I usually shoot film photography but also I like the comfort of digital. The problem is that I’ve never been happy with existing film emulations. Mainly because of that, because they are emulations instead of simulations.

      METHOD USED
      For doing so, instead of doing a generic conversion for every camera, I’ve done a specialised conversion for the Leica M9 based on simulating the chemical process and spectrum response, instead of applying curves and other stuff.
      In the end, I thought, if analog and digital are just two instruments which capture light, I thought, maybe is there any mathematical conversion to make the digital to look like film?
      I mean, if I take the same photo with analog and digital, under exact same conditions (light / aperture / exposition /…) could I make them look exactly the same?
      It’s based on chemical simulation and the Leica M9’s response to spectrum. Then LUTs and finally some extra calibration. I think that it could be improved because I’ve used home made or open source tools for calibrating and so on, which are far from perfect.
      EXAMPLES (Analog vs Converted Digital)
      Following are some examples of Superia 200 and TriX 400.
      Click in each photo to see high resolution.
      DNGs shoots taken with Leica M9 (left), and FILM shoots taken with Minolta CLE (right) at same conditions (aperture / exposition / ISO).
      All shoots taken with Zeiss Biogon T* ZM 35mm f/2.
      The examples show several photos, which are the following:
      +------------------------+------------------------+
      |      original DNG      |                        |
      +------------------------+------------------------+
      |      converted DNG     |     scanned FILM       |
      +------------------------+------------------------+
      |      developed DNG     |     developed FILM     |
      +------------------------+------------------------+
      For the generated simulated negative TIFF file and the scanned TIFF file I’ve applied exactly the same develop parameters.
      TriX 400 - 1
      TriX 400 - 2
      TriX 400 - 3
      Superia 200 - 1
      Superia 200 - 2
      Superia 200 - 3
      Superia 200 - 4
      Superia 200 - 5
      Superia 200 - 6

      CONCLUSIONS
      Tonal range - Biggest difference between digital and film
      Dynamic range - Digital is faaar more detailed in the blacks, film never gets burnt, meanwhile digital gets burn quite fast.
      Film has more microcontrast, it's more sharpen
      Digital is a little bit more contrast after developing, I imagine it’s because it reach white level faster, then, when doing autolevels with the developing program, as a result, it’s a more contrast image.

      DOWNLOAD
      I'm having a console application ready, if interest is shown it will be ready quite soon!
      CAVEHEATS / LIMITATIONS
      The program only accept DNG, because I need all the light captured by the camera, instead of a JPG already converted and really dependent on camera self made adjustments.
      The program only accepts photos taken at the ISO of the certain film that is gonna be used. For example, for TriX400 it will accept only Leica M9 DNGs at 400 ISO. I’ve also done tests with ISO 200 and 800, and the results were quite satisfactory but, for complexity reasons, I prefer to let it be native film ISO for the moment.
      Highlights are not always correct, and sometimes they look weird, mainly in color film. This is due to bayer sensor pattern and its different intensity response (for Red, Green and Blue channels).
      FUTURE (& PAST) WORK
      Leica M10-D
      Leica M8.2

      THANKS
      Super thanks to the creator of LibRaw, a wonderful C++ library for working with RAW files.
      Any questions I’m open to answer 🙂
      Best regards everybody.
      Tomás AKA “Camalogica”
       
    • By UltraDan
      I shoot with an M4-p which. Has no light meter, can someone explain to me what is meant when people talk about shooting a film at other than its native iso? So for instance shooting portra 400 and somebody saying “ it’s great shot at iso 800” am I corrwct I’m thinking that it just means shooting at one stop over? I.e shutter speed 800 at desired aperture? Obviously on my eos 1 I can just set the iso to 200/800 instead of 400. 
       
      or have I got this wrong? 
       
      thanks,
       
      dan 
    • By VictoriaC
      LEICA M7 (0.72 VF) BODY #3328314 in a set with Leica Summicron 50mm f2-M 6-Bit #4037804. BEAUTIFUL CONDITION BOXED & COMPLETE
      I’m offering for sale my Leica M7 (0.72 VF) #3328314 in the starter set with a Leica Summicron 50mm f2 -M 6-Bit #4037804 set, bought from Red Dot Cameras London. I was using this regularly, along with a number of other film bodies I have as I am a bit of a collector. I mainly shoot digital but I still run a film through it regularly just to make sure it is working well. This is a wonderful camera to use and the lens is perfect.
      The camera comes complete with all original packaging, an unused camera strap, manual and body cap and a battery which I have not left inside the camera.
      The camera is in beautiful condition with just a little bit of brass rubbing, the lens has a little cosmetic rubbing on the rim as may be seen in the photograph but the glass itself is perfect. I hope the images attest to the condition of the camera and speak for themselves. I have more photos of the camera and lens if you want to see the condition of them - the advert limits how many photos I can post.
      Priced at £2300 GBP.  Bank transfer or cash on collection from my SW London UK home (in Wandsworth). Alternatively the camera will be packaged very securely and postage will be charged extra at cost.
      Please do not hesitate to contact me if you have any questions.  Regards, Victoria

    • By gwpics
      Paris 1997 Leica M3 + 50mm Summicron f2 and Fuji Neopan 400PR © Gerry Walden/gwpics.com   When, oh when, are we going to get Fuji Neopan 400PR back!   Gerry
      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
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